matt036

^^Spot on!! Or if ya don't mind the travel for the best head to fpt at toowoomba, that's where I'm going next.

Yep same tuna!!! The one John west rejected haha

Hey bud I have the exact same problem although mine doesn't do it all the time, every now and then until its up to temp just runs like a bag of s**t even had pull over a few times cause it just wouldn't run enough to keep the car moving. Same tuner as well. I've put it down to a tune issue as well, hopefully have it rectified in the coming months though.

If you leave your dump and cat back standard and have a decent bottom end they won't touch the flapper or actuator as they have a safety margin. Anything else with exhaust well, good luck.

Fgxod and neotim, if use had trawled through this thread you would realise that there's really 2 paths to go down when choosing a clutch. 1. Are you planning on taking it down the strip regularly? Or 2. Using it as a daily driver/cruiser with a bit of poke here and there on the street. If its option 1 then spend the money now and get a decent twin plate that's gunna handle it or if its 2 go with an organic higher rated kit like npc or whatever. Simple enough?

Is that no to has anybody used one? Or no to do the alloy boxes keep the heat out better? Or no as in to say no to these full stop? Lol

Red goes faster! Except on a Holden.

Fitted this up 3 weeks ago on the garage floor never again will I be doing that, gettin a hoist next time!

From what I can tell the higher rated organics are fine for the power levels. Pretty sure it's once a set of semi's or slicks are bolted on and launched to hell off the line that there giving out.

If there's no slip I'd say clutch plate has plenty left if its gripping and also a pressure plate fail would indicate clutch slip as well. Id be going its your slave cylinder, like I said the plastic crap from ford can sh1t themselves at any time.

Is it ticking when it in accessory or in the on position? If its when its on that's normal I think as it'll be the throttle body pulling back to shut. I know when I turn mine to the on position I hear the fuel pump and a click from my throttle body, so pretty sure it's normal. Sounds like something is blown though, out of curiosity have you taken the positive off the battery and left it for an hour to reset the Ecu just to see what might happen?

Shoot 6F - 284 kw Shoot 8F - 306 kw All depends if you wanna see a good number or not. Cheers.

Has the feel of the pedal changed? It could be pressure plate related but I would be saying it would more likely be your slave cylinder is failing or failed. If its still standard the plastic pieces of crap are known for failing at the drop of a hat.

I knew not to opt for mal wood when my mate running an opt 3 In his 320rwkw ba managed to sh1t itself and he drove it softer than grandma in her Camry going to church. Also heard other stories that were similar which is why I steered well clear. Pretty sure around 2500 is the going rate for decent twin plates that are gunna handle a decent load.

Direct clutch services in Brisbane also do hefty clutches as well. I have one of their 8" Race Series twin plate clutches. Yet to run it down the strip to see how it goes but so far hooks up well. I had an exedy hd clutch and took it to the drags and smoked it from launch to finish with only about 400hp. I've heard good feedback about the direct clutch services clutches being good for the drags and track, so I'm looking forward to see the results.

Depends, are they doing it in 6F or 8F that'll make a difference as every final figure they do is in 8F.

Hows the beautiful sunny sunshine coast weather been for these last couple days? Absolutly amazing!

They can be tested on a ignition/coil tester. At first they will seem fine but we just opened up the gap on the tester plug to get the coil hot and work harder and when we did that, that's when it started to play up.

Thought id give this thread another hit of life.

If you have it tuned already maybe you could send them the flash tuner and get them to load a basic map for those injectors in so it will run but just keep it off boost till its custom tuned.

Pretty sure the injectors are just bosch 42lbers as that's what im running and there identical and if that's right then not a chance of it making 385rwkw lol Oh and a monza cooler haha

My missus is the first to winge at me about how much I spend on my car and when it plays up and the money I then spend to fix it. But funny when ever we drive somewhere shes always quick to ask to drive it haha

Yeah I know how you feel mate, in the same boat at the moment spent about 2k on gettin a new housing and porting and intake and tune and everything to only have the actuator sh1t itself and put the new one on and have it boost all over the shop and be back at square one. As for bypassing the solonoid, if your running a boost gauge give it a go and see what it does but from experience its still probably gunna overboost.

Bottom line is its going to be making 12psi once boost is on and with out a boost gauge who knows after that. Mate you would be better off getting it back to your tuner so they can tune it to suit the actuator. It will be bringing boost on a lot harder and if its not tuned to the actuator it could possibly be creeping in the top end which is causing the boost cut. Im in a similar boat at the moment although my tune is a 14psi not 8, so mine makes the 14 then starts to creep as it hasn't had the proper adjustment to correct for this as of yet.

Most of the time they make cosmetic parts like the bars and grilles and xr8 bonnets bloody ridiculously priced so old back yard bob cant come in and buy genuine parts to make his xt look like typhoon, also same reason the vin locked alot of cosmetic fpv parts.