nuddy989

hey I was just reading through this thread... if you speak to Atomic or Nizpro both of them will tell you to weld the bolts. I had a customer who had this problem not that long ago and under Brads instructions we tac welded the bolts. Car has since done about 3000k's and the customer who owns it almost breaks traction every single time he drives it. Time will tell if this holds up or not. over the past months I've seen both good and bad work come from nizpro and atomic, I work in the industry and see these everyday. I wouldn't go believing rumors that spread and at the end of the day just because 1 person has a bad experience with a workshop or company doesn't mean you will. The sad thing is 1 negative word goes a lot further then 10 good words.

oh, are you talking about the BMW ones?

they're not clear perspec rims lol. they are standard Late model camira rims. and these work on any rims I'll give you a clue. they're not some lights that sit in the wheel well.

http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=11&R=8168035&keywords=&trecs=222&__sid=12BC234C9779&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|0||pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=true&__Nne=15&__No=30&seot=1&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294965879%201622&silo=1011 Please tell me I am not the only person here who seems to think this is too good to be true? considering buying this car, is there anything you guys can see as to why that wouldn't be a good idea ?

sweet thanks for the replies It's in at cape york auto getting looked at, hope to here back from them soon

Hey all I was driving home from work and pulled up outfront of my friends house, put into park took my foot off the break and it started rolling backwards (handbreak has been stuffed since ive owned the car) I was like uhhhhh wtf is going on, so I put it on level ground and that's when I noticed it was stuck in "N"... the gearstick moves normally and when in performance mode it still does the same thing. I put it in reverse and checked there is no reverse lights on, so im thinking maybe the selector is f*cked ? or something electric? If its gearbox anyone selling a 5 or 6speed manual lol so over this pos auto sh*t.

you either need to get a turbo sump or drill a whole into your sump for the oil that drains out of the turbo, where it gets its oil from im not exactly sure, I was going to use an after market oil cooler on mine where I think my mate was going to split into 2, on for the turbo line and one for the engine line.. I could be completely wrong but I think that's how it works :S

the injectors on all the 6's typhoon/xr6t and na 4L are all the same, so if you run a stock map you can use your injectors, but if you tune it to run on 95 or 98 you will need to change injectors as they won't handle it. phooned explained what I was trying to but better lol. I got a quote from autobarn for a 2bar map sensor for a bf turbo at $139 and I got quoted 165 from repco.. im sure you can find them cheaper

I was under the impression you will be missing bits out of the wiring loom. I know that some ba utes and na xr6's have the wiring required to hook up the boost control solenoid. If you have an auto you might need to get a trans cooler. I'm also told that you need to upgrade the injectors because after using the flasher its basically like a tuned xr6t so you need to have bigger injectors for it to work. As far as im aware you can also get the 2bar map sensors from ebay but don't quote me on that. I am also doing a t upgrade, starting late July

Thanks for the replies guys I was lucky enough to pick up the Type R's for 300 Each so 600. Im using old boxes I have previously owned but im going to put in a custom install soon enough. I think I'm in dire need of a cap. When ever the bass kicks my lights dim (head lights) previously they never use to do this. but all I have to say is the sound is f*cking increadible! My mate has 2 11" focal subs set him back about 600 each I think. all I have to say is mine is a deeper sound and kicks way harder then his. very impressed. Thanks for the input guys

hey guys basically looking for an opinion.. Looking to spend $700-800 on some bass for my car. I currently have a 1000watt @ 2OHM rms rockford amp. The sub setup im looking at and is winning in my eyes at the moment is either an Alpine Type - X sub or 2 Alpine Type - R sub's. both in 12". Basically I wan't something that can bump, but without the loss of sound quality. Previously I have used, Polk, Pioneer, Kicker and Currently an Alpine Type - R that has just been sold to make room for upgrades. the Type R is by far the better of them all. All of the subs were priced between $300-400 mark. any thoughts and opinions would be nice, im open to many suggestions Thanks