kane_tools

Just wish I remembered the marshmallows to toast on the turbo's at the pie shop.... Good night boys..

OK shift swapped and good to go 100% Cruise controller add me to the list. We'll be waiting at BP Albion Park Rail.

Checked my roster...thought the cruise was Sat nite...working Fri nite. I'm out. Farken hate working for Cityrail sometimes stupid trains. I'm determined to meet you fellas one day.

Finally I think I'm rostered off ....But do I really need a CB radio??? So 50/50 +1 joining at Albion Park KFC/BP at this stage,

yeah pretty much, hence the giveaway. Working cat convertors give a sweet or no smell at all.

I just gotta say the biggest gutted cat giveaway is the SMELL. No one has mentioned the smell. An EPA/RTA inspector or cop who is half switched on would immediately pick this following car or with roadside inspection. Think rich sickly fumes.

C&V gapped them for me. and no the tips on the iridiums were fine, they were not damaged. Con does not recommend NGK's in T's too bad if Denso ever went out of business

Just as a side note at 90k a certain Expensive Daewoo I owned felt rooted at the same mileage, just before the warranty ran out it got discs all round, another fuel pump/sender unit, steering rack and shocks. My T does not even rattle. observantly looked after these cars are fine belt any car it will fck up on you

too many burnouts and not enough oil changes. sour lemon taste in mouth I say...

Finally an end to this story! Got it put on the CV dyno yesterday and the question of which plugs/coils were in the car after it done it's dying trick. So I said almost smugly new ford coils and NGK iridiums which were also fairly fresh....Con then said they just don't work in our cars..who am I to doubt him. He said the cross matching part from NGK or any other brand will give probs such as I had, he swears only by the GENUINE FORD DENSO plugs. Still sceptical I grabbed a set off Con, got the boys to gap them down from 1.1 mm. Needed to go to work with car so I fitted them when I got home and WHOA what a difference and problem fixed. I only wish I had time to fit them there and then and run it up again, they were flat out, I had to run. It is stock and pulled 186.2 rwkw with the farked plugs all other things being sound such as AFR's and boost etc, I wish I knew the after reading with the new plugs because they really woke it up. So case closed and another happy CV perfomance camper!!

In response to TUR-BO6, having owned a gen III, all I can say is the torque of these motors (LSx) is fairly gay even when tuned and not even comparable to the instantly accessible, usable, and meaningful spread the T's have STANDARD. For nearly 6litres they are pretty peaky. Who besides honda drivers need 4500 revs on board to make some serious urge? These motors are easily caught out especially autos with seemingly crap ratios that leave big gaps in performance on the road. Would I now get out of the T for a V8 again...don't think so!! Go tell the GEN III owners to check their oil

checked ok, no leaks. Would it go at all without exhaust cam position sensor or wild readings from this sensor? I just had another look at the wire harness and the outer layer sheath protecting the 2 inner wires just crumbles!! The 2 wires themselves are quite hard and appear brittle.

traction tried on and off. this cut out feels similar to traction or fuel cut activating but feels more like putting a cork in the exhaust or intake, no noise or popping just BLAHHHH there is no switching.

Seeking wisdom. Hi all, Well I have a random issue and it's got me fcuked. Making it worse is searching and scouring these forums and it could literally be anything and doing my head in over it, so I thought lets toss it on the floor for ideas. The issue is on a freeway overtaking in second(and third) it will accelerate cleanly until it passes 4000 rpm ( then anywhere randomly between 4000rpm and cutout) it literally hits a wall!! like hitting the fuel cut early, not always but most of the time. Lift the pedal it will shift up and go normal again nor does it seem to go doughy or idle roughly after an episode. It will ALWAYS accelerate correctly in first gear to redline every time and into second and makes the dash to 100k in normal time, pulls normally on the road up hills etc etc. When I say random on any given day it may not do it at all or once only, other days it will do it every time. Ambient temp is irrelevant as is operating temp or how long it's been running or fuel level in tank. About the car- it is stock, fuel is always 98 from one supplier..at first I suspected dud fuel but have put almost two tanks through it. Fuel economy is still 'normal' for a XR6T (Up to around 14-15L/100 around town) Idle quality is good, no vacuum, boost, or exhaust leaks. Recently had 90K service by me, this included genuine filters, new iridiums (gapped to 0., 6x new genuine coils (one was cracked and it was missing like a basterd), new coolant/fluids etc, manifolds torqued, throttle body clean, boost solenoid lube. It went like it was meant to, till this crap problem about a week ago. Things that seem a bit odd- it smells farken rich at idle with a very random and very slight miss, although this has not really changed from when it runs well. It seems quite loud for a standard exhaust but again no different from when it ran properly consistently. The wiring to the rear exhaust side cam sensor seems a little crispy from heat exposure. On two occasions if you immediately pull it up after a splutter you can tell half the cylinders are cut out or on trailing throttle after a splutter on the road, through the exhaust you can again hear it running on half the cylinders then like flicking a switch it's back on all six after a couple of seconds. PCM has been reset. ETC has been reset. I'm going to take it to CV to run it up on the dyno for diagnosis, but until then I'm baffled...is it new dud coils or wastegate issues or melted cat or weak fuel pump or valve float???? You guys decide!!!

I just had the exact same/similar issue with Vortex. For some unknown reason known only to my wife she went and put this stuff in and it (car) hated it..went all doughy, spluttered under load etc. It normally gets fed V power from 1 busy site in wollongong mainly for one reason close to home, high turnover, consistent quality. Shell back in this arvo and like magic it started coming good. This is not the first issue I've had with Vortex, wife put it in as well another time in an LS1 Expensive Daewoo we USED to own and it crapped itself on it..couldn't get up a hill near home, surging, engine light on/off etc.again came good once the Vortex was out of its system. I'm now too paranoid to use Caltex stuff anymore. Contaminated maybe but on more than one occasion from different sites and cars ForFSake.. My 2c on Vortex... Kane

Make that -1 I'm ropeable!!! Can't get the beast......wife needs it more than me. So I'll have to take the company car to work....the I <3 Bananas train Will have to wait for the next cruise, but if someone has a spare seat..I live in the Gong. Kane...

+1 for Friday night if you'll wait for me. I work at Sutherland Railway, can get out the door as soon as I book up my paperwork be at Heathcote a few mins after 9pm. So it will be a cool drive home for me to the Gong.

Done this job today again...I'm a godam expert at it...I've had enough falcodores which have incredibly similar brakes..... Tightening the cable adjuster is like using a bandaid for a tampon..it'll work for a bit then..well you know. Only way to fix this is to back cable adjuster right off, and then adjust the park brake drum/shoe clearance. I like to pull off the discs for a little look plus it's hard to adjust thru the hole provided. Then finally adjust the nut under the car, but not too tight the noise will come back and the cables will stretch. Do it right and the noise will not come back for a long time and the handbrake will hold on angles up to almost vertical...even on a BA A lot of people say these are crap handbrakes. Adjusted correctly they work brilliantly and don't go SHH SHH SHH...

I did buy a set of the ebay ones for $162 to my front door. They are genuine and come from a ford dealer with invoice...either that or someone has gone to a lot of trouble to make up fake packaging with fake ford stickers and fake ford warehouse yellow pick stickers. Anyhow picked up my T with the same issue once really hot say 1 hr of running it would loose 1 coil. Anyhow to cut a long story short from taking note of what the people on here say to do and check...my car fkn flies now. Do the coils, put some new plugs in it, clean the throttle body, re-torque the manifolds and exhaust joins, chuck a fuel filter on it, and lube the boost solenoid and make sure there are no boost leaks....simple TLC stuff really. (this was a car with full service history mind you) The difference is astounding!!!! Dog to DEMON.... :ooops:

+1 for the gerringong suggestion. I'm dying to get out on a cruise with some XR's

OK guys excuse the question, BUT is buying your own personal flash box mandatory in editing these cars? I coming out of an LS1 Expensive Daewoo to a T, and that was a case of simply getting the car tuned, paying the coin and see you later. If I want my T tuned then I'll always have this little flash box right? So on top of its (flasher) purchase price I then have to 'BUY' a custom tune on top? This is the only way to load the tunes onto these cars? Cant I just rock up to say CV and say tune it pay the money and drive out happy?

Well this is my first post...and I gotta say this website SUX!! ;-) I mean I don't have a spare 3 months to do a bit of light reading...but I'll try and squeeze it in 4 days and it is just making the wait till I pick up the T even longer and painful than it already is!! I'm getting out of an LS1 H****n after nearly seven years and cannot wait to have something completely different yet still fast.