kane_tools

I thought I should just qualify my last paragraph. I've never owned anything but Australian made rear drive 6 and 8 cylinder sedans and 1 wagon. On its merits my German Focus despite being an arse dragger has it all over the big Aussie sedans, despite the fact you would tear me a new arse on a drag strip. I'll leave that for vin diesel to live his life a quarter mile at a time!

Falcon is already at the morgue, its just a matter of waiting for the funeral details (I personally can't see it lasting until 2016 with barely 1000 sales a month), Billion Dollar Baby is dying from a terminal disease named Cruze., Toyota is packing up its sh*t from Altona. BP ultimate is around $1.70 a litre. You want to tow sh*t buy a diesel dual cab or something. Now for the haters. It is unreasonable to compare modern FWD with 1986 Lasers, Focus RS anyone? I took the plunge and downsized on a new Focus ST (XR5) last year trading my XR6T on it, I can't say I have ever regretted it or missed my Falcon despite the massive power and polar opposite differences between the two vehicles. Sadly the Falcon never moved me, I can sit at work all day thinking about it, dying for the drive home in the Focus. It does nothing outstanding but rather everything well without falling apart while being the most engaging and character filled vehicle I've ever owned.

I put these on my T not long after they were released last year. I have done over 15k on them and they are about half worn. They are still impressive and quiet and would most likely purchase again. BTW these tyre are made in Thailand.

I bet it still won't rev past 3 k in neutral.

I don't think this will go away, I just need to look at my job (driving trains), its an instant dismissal now. We can't really run up someones arse or weave into the next lane either and always need to watch our speed and smile for the CCTV etc etc etc. Our job is undertaking changes the airline industry made years ago, and the trucking industry is following us and now Joe public. Unfortunately our society takes the easy route and regulates to the lowest common denominator.

Running Michelin PS3 on my T. Very sticky, will take WOT on a wet road (yes it's a stocker but it could turn cheap rubber in the dry). Quiet with reasonable wear. Should go at least 30k.

Thanx

Hi guys, Just having a recurring issue with my turbo oil feed weeping out of the turbo housing inlet fitting. I had it apart when I replaced the mesh filter 7500k ago and it resealed no prob. After a while I could smell burning oil. I replaced the sealing washers but found this only worked for a few days before the smell comes back. Do these bolts stretch or anything or in general I <3 Bananas up and continually work their way loose, or can the pipe fitting crush with overtightening? I'm going to try a new bolt and washers. Can anyone suggest a suitable sealant that I can use when reassembling pipe and banjo bolt that won't cook once the turbo heats up..

I've had these on the car for a week now and am absolutely blown away. For $235 a piece in 235/45/17 these would have to be some of the best money I've ever spent on a car period. The first night they were on was a horrible night down the F6 and Mt Ousley road in driving winds and torrential rain. I've never driven on a tyre that WILL NOT aquaplane, brilliant stuff. Yesterday I went for a run up to Robbo pie shop in the dry, the car felt that planted even the wife commented from the pass seat. And quiet. With tyres this capable at this price I fail to understand how people would spend money on ling longs, wanlis, sonny, nankang, federal etc.

put it this way I have some extras to use next time!! I just ordered the required quantity out of the parts list. Bit like wog cooking, better more than not enough..

This is a must to change. After procrastinating over remove or replace, finally decided to replace. Boy I'm glad I did. Car with full service history and intermediate changes in between this filter almost blocked at 100k. Turbo was still getting oil and line clear, filter looked clean but could not blow through it. Revised filter fitted now I can sleep. Very easy to do with airbox out. Anyone in Wollongong need it done PM me.

washers p/n is E 832149 S300 they are just 12mm copper crush washers. book says 8 are required/used Just picked up (all genuine parts) 8 washers, revised turbo filter P/N SY 9P424 A, engine oil filter for 74 clams all up. Who needs an invoice!

None of the options in the poll fit, somehow I think my BA will be a keeper along with a FG.

Just done this job and the filler plug is actually 29mm. It will make a lot more sense than trying to find a 1 3/16 in socket at Bunnings!!! (this is not a common size socket)

QFM pads HP-X or Q1RM Blows bendix ultimates etc out of the water without too much dust or the stupid price.

230kpa @ 2000 rpm min.

why do it hard??

you need a torx key to remove the seats

+1 stick with only the genuine Ford Denso plugs. You won't get a better result or price.

has anyone measured or know what is the I.d. of this oil inlet on the turbo as shown in the pic by f-wolf. The size suggested on the garrett website is barely over 1mm?? or does it have a check ball or similar down the hole? Also what is the real world oil pressure of this engine not just off idle? Does it hit 70-80 psi like a lot of cars do at full noise. The manual only shows minimum. I still think this filter has some role to play and am still inclined to leave it in place, and with frequent oil changes fail to see how it would sludge up badly in the first place. Yet the other half of my head say's bin the crnt. Just want to do the safest thing by my car.

Another thought on this oil supply screen... After going to the garrett website I found this information on what we are calling a filter. While I don't disagree about these things being prone to clagging up, people that have removed them all together would according to this info be in for a different drama...too much oil pressure can sometimes be almost as bad as none. They refer to it as an oil pressure restrictor and beneficial to performance in a ball bearing turbocharger. The specified allowable minimum operating oil pressure in our engines is around 35 psi @ 2000 rpm hot. The turbo apparently likes a steady 40-45 psi at all engine speeds. Below is lifted from the FAQ section.. Does my turbo require an oil restrictor? Oil requirements depend on the turbo's bearing system type. Garrett has two types of bearing systems; traditional journal bearing; and ball bearing. The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage. Remember to address all other potential causes of leakage first (e.g., inadequate/improper oil drain out of the turbocharger, excessive crankcase pressure, turbocharger past its useful service life, etc.) and use a restrictor as a last resort. Garrett distributors can tell you the recommended range of acceptable oil pressures for your particular turbo. Restrictor size will always depend on how much oil pressure your engine is generating-there is no single restrictor size suited for all engines. Ball-bearing turbochargers can benefit from the addition of an oil restrictor, as most engines deliver more pressure than a ball bearing turbo requires. The benefit is seen in improved boost response due to less windage of oil in the bearing. In addition, lower oil flow further reduces the risk of oil leakage compared to journal-bearing turbochargers. Oil pressure entering a ball-bearing turbocharger needs to be between 40 psi and 45 psi at the maximum engine operating speed. For many common passenger vehicle engines, this generally translates into a restrictor with a minimum of 0.040" diameter orifice upstream of the oil inlet on the turbocharger center section. Again, it is imperative that the restrictor be sized according to the oil pressure characteristics of the engine to which the turbo is attached. Always verify that the appropriate oil pressure is reaching the turbo. The use of an oil restrictor can (but not always) help ensure that you have the proper oil flow/pressure entering the turbocharger, as well as extract the maximum performance.

cut and pasted direct from workshop manual; Turbocharger Inspection and Verification NOTE: It is normal for a small amount of combustion gas to pass into the crankcase. These ’blow-by’ gases are scavenged into the air intake system through the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Some engine oil, in the form of a vapour is carried into the air intake system with the blow-by gases (this engine oil also contributes to valve seat durability). This means that oil will collect inside the air intake components and the turbocharger. This is not an indication that the turbocharger oil seal has failed. The turbocharger oil seal will not fail unless the bearings fail first, which will cause the turbocharger to become noisy or seize. Do not install a new turbocharger due to oil inside the turbocharger or the air intake components. If a leak is detected in the oil supply or return tubes or connections, locate and rectify the source. Do not install a new turbocharger due to an oil leak.

I have no regrets about getting a BA auto....but I made sure I got a stocker with service history, which was one lady owner highway k's car btw if that helps. I did have concerns after reading through these forums about potential probs and that I wasn't getting a BF etc etc...but so far none of these issues exist in my example...except my cup holder wont shut!! I was almost terrified about getting a T...but at the end of the day this is the most satisfying car I've ever owned. With just on 90 k it cost me 17k with 12 months reg. I bought it as traded and un-detailed so it was also very clean and drives tight. (I've driven many BA's and had a BFII from new as work vehicles and know how these cars should feel from zero to at least 160k on the clock) So take your time and you will find a healthy one at the right price and kays...