petchyboy

If you're still on P plates you should check the restrictions on what you can drive.... besides that FG mk2 would be the pick, better tech would be my main score for upgrading. Read through some of the stickied threads, plenty of excellent information on issues people have had with the FG series, insurance guides, modification guides. Days worth of info to work through. good luck with it, you will love it!

That's where I'm at now, 2k out of pocket for a hire car that may or may not get remimbersed after the jobs done...and that was only for the first 3 weeks! Up to 9wks so far another month to go before I get it back.....

Gone are the days you ring Shannon's and get through through to someone quickly and chat about all things cars for 15 minutes before you get to the point of the call. Now it's 20+ minute wait and numerous times I've had real difficulty understanding the person...

I would steer clear of Shannon's now days. Taken over by Suncorp and I'm still dealing with the wrath of the change. Not at fault claim with the at fault party identified and no issues on that side. Shannon's though offer you choice of repairer, but they don't tell you the Suncorp assessment company they use absolutely gut your choice of repairers quote so much that it almost forces you to move to a cheaper shop! Trying to change assessor but I can't get onto any form of manager/anyone who gives a stuff so now it's going to be a third party recovery that my repairer is taking on so he can do the job to the standard both he and I expect. Once the car is repaired I'm off to famous insurance. So many bad reviews for Shannon's since Suncorp took over. Apparently quite a few of the car enthusiasts working for Shannon's have gone to famous. also be aware that Shannon's don't have a hire car option for accidents....at all. Even if your not at fault and therefore legally entitled to one. They don't care one bit! Famous do have this option.

Verdict is partially in. Battery was certainly screwed, not even close to being passable, so that's replaced. Cheers to the shop that told me it was fine!!! No more business for you The other possible issue could be the alternator loosing a phase when it gets hot on long trips, so I'll see how it goes over the next week without using the trickle charger. Alt puts out a good charge cold though and I wasn't game to fork out 500 bucks to get it checked or pay a grand for a new one installed! Bring on the 1600km trip to Melb in 3 weeks. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all the suggestions and input

Hoping the starter is fine, 70% of my driving has been highway k's so not many starts frankly, last tank of fuel lasted 11 weeks! Charger is on every time I'm home, I can live with that. No aircon coming into summer in south west Queensland I cannot especially with a trip to Melbourne in 3 weeks. Thanks for all the advice guys, off to the only auto elec in town tomorrow.....it's gonna hurt

Very true, but with the car on its got 14v across it, not sure what current the alternator is putting out though that will be a job for an auto elec. From the sounds of it, it's one of 3 possible things. Alternator on the way out, battery not holding charge properly or the starter motor pulling way to much on start up which in turn kills the battery. After a 3hr drive it started ok just had no aircon, but a day and a half later it just turned over.

But surely a 3hr drive would get the battery fully charged from even a slightly undercharged battery to start with? Either way I'm down in Melbourne for a service in 3 weeks so I'll have them fully investigate what's going on as its past my knowledge limit by a fair bit now. Either starter motor dodgy or battery tests that have been done are wrong and the battery is indeed shot. What should the nominal current draw be from a the car whilst off? Much appreciate the help

Unfortunately not, overnight the charger will show the battery is fully charged, perhaps it's not getting properly charged?

Thanks for the reply. The link below is what's in there now. CCA 540 Car sits for long periods of time so it doesn't bother me that it takes a while to fully charge up, overnight is generally fine next morning. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Century-Car-Battery-57EF-540-CCA.aspx?pid=287262#Recommendations Cars done 70,000km

Bit of a rundown. Battery is near new (centurion smartdrive) been checked twice for faults and returned nothing operating as it should.... Car lasts about 2 days max with a full battery before it won't start. Fully charged battery shows 12.9v during the start/cranking it drops to 7.6v briefly and once running either idle or 2000-3000rpm it's sitting on13.97v The current draw with everything off is 1amp briefly (computers?) then settles at 0.29-0.30amps. I've read elsewhere that when the battery voltage drops below 9.6v during start the air con compressor won't run, which would explain why I've had trips with no air con. I've just been on a trip to Brissy (500km each way) and both times stopping about half way for fuel the aircon has refused to work for the next stint which is frustrating with a temp of 35c outside. Any ideas as to what is causing the massive drop in volts during start and what appears to be a highish current draw based on other posts I've found? I've tried pulling fuses and yet to find anything that causes the current draw to reduce slightly. Car is an 09 xr6t with tech pack and premium sound, besides that no other aftermarket electronics have been installed. This has been happening for the last couple of years only, I've had the car since new and I think it's the 3rd battery I've had. Now I have the car on a 3 stage 12v 1.6amp charger which keeps the first start normal. Subsequent starts are generally ok, short runs and I'm in trouble by the 3-4 start up with computer faults and slow crank. Thanks.

+1 for the shockworks gear. Softest setting is ever so slightly firmer than stock, I've run up to 5/10 and it was plenty firm enough for my liking. Haven't tried full stiff yet.... Best part is you can actually go around the corner without fear of epic under steer!

Cheers for the replies, done a fair bit of searching but hasn't been much on opti coat. Won't be selling the car for a long while so that's not a concern, but the biggest dilemma is not being able to wax and polish it anymore. I find that enjoyable and love seeing the car all done up looking mint. Don't think I'd have that same satisfaction if I just needed a wash.

Hi guys, looking at getting my car opti coated just wondering if many have done it and what they think of it? The car is still in excellent condition, but im getting to the end of my abilities to fix blemishes and such with hand polishing. If opti coat is as good as some say it might be the way to go rather than spending money on a machine polisher and associated bits. Thoughts? Also anyone recommend someone to fix roof lining in Melbourne. Prefer eastern suburbs or south eastern. Cheers​

Running 5/5 at the moment but thinking of softening the rear a click or two. Just feels a little too firm in the rear and tends to get out of shape a bit too easy on the corners when going quick, front end has no troubles at all. I agree with the extra noise, it sounds like you are hitting big holes but it doesn't feel like anything at all, strange feeling for sure.

Second that, fantastic set for the Falcons. Designed specifically for them by someone who worked for fpv designing shocks. If I remember correctly he describes them as what he always wanted to do at fpv but had restrictions. For me on softest settings it's just as soft as stock but rides bumps and handles awesome, still playing with the settings though to find my perfect balance. Best thing is the car turns corners now and no more axel tramp. While you look at shockworks check out his front brake kit, epic.

Love the shockworks gear, have the coilovers and front brakes. Get that and spend some money on a few engine mods and you will be well ahead of anything ford bring out and you can spend 15k on a holiday

Had mine 6yrs and spends many days in hot sun 35+c day during the week, only problem is the roof lining which needs replacing, paint and plastics still mint

355mm hub to guard so I'll bring it down 5mm n leave it at that, Queensland gutters are not friendly!

Finally got around to taking a few extra shots of the rear height. What's the verdict, I'm still thinking a touch high.

Go have some fun! (Legally of course) Open roads are where they belong ?

Can always call up servos in the larger towns you will pass through n ask about it. If it's only 3-4hrs take 20lt fuel can with ya. I usually get 9lt/100 highway driving throwing the right foot at it for each road train. Should get 700km or close to it on one tank plus your extra 20lt. Certainly worth speaking with your tuner about octane booster/95 tune before you leave if you aren't keen on taking extra fuel.

I've been out bush with my tuned turbo for most of its 5yr life. Only place I've had trouble getting 98 fuel is the NT. These days qld/NSW/vic/sa 'usually' have a bp or Caltex with 98 in any town that's not tiny. Can't speak for wa though as I haven't been remote there. Where abouts are you looking at going? If youa re really concerned get a fuel can n fill that each time you get 98 fuel. Stinks out the car but a good backup.

Absolutely stoked with it all. Excellent service from all three places I used. Pitlane saved the car, was making 348kw hitting 22.5psi with the gtx3576 with no boost control now with a port its running a flat 16psi and 356kw a fantastic result just wish I went there to begin with but its a long drive. New pic is with all 4 new rims on before it only had left side done, so it sits a bit more even at the rear now. But still might drop it down a touch

Over the last 3 weeks the car has done 5335km from south west queensland to Melbourne for a proper port and tune from Mick at pitlane along with the diff bushes, then off to Brett for shockworks coilovers and front brakes which haven't been fitted yet, then Clipsal 500 up to Bathurst, Brisbane and home. Just received my new rims from Taleb tyres so the brakes can go on next week. New suspension is awesome! Cant wait for the brakes to go on and give the car a good squirt. Do you all think I should go a touch lower in the rear ride height? Currently set to what was recommended. The Bathurst pic looks lower in the rear because it was chock full of old suspension and new brakes plus bags.