White Knight

Does anybody know any contact info for Technico? I e-mailed them about these engine mounts but haven't received a response... btw, any long-term feedback on these mounts?

Don't now if you've done this yet, but I have never had to remove the turbo to get at the RH side engine mount - and I've been through a few! Although it is a real PITA to get to. And I am running a BF.

Hi Guys, I have a pretty serious coolant leak, I'm running an '06 BF II Turbo with two oil coolers, one at the engine block oil filter and one for the transmission. The source appears to be a three-way valve of sorts located pretty much directly underneath the intake manifold, pictures attached. I'm wondering if anybody else has experienced this and; 1. Can identify the part? 2. Have any advice or experience to share regarding it's replacement (although it looks simple enough)? It seems to receive a coolant hose from beneath the thermostat and then send one out to each oil cooler. I'm not sure if this is standard on the turbo models (particular chasers), but the part appears to be Ford branded. Cheers, White Knight

Forgive me if I'm way off, but does this mean you will now be able to take a ZF6 from say an XR8, stick it in a Turbo and reflash it to work? Or get a compatible valve body from another 6HP26, stick it in and same deal, flash it to work with the car's PCM?

doesen't it involve a swap or software flash of the PCM as well?

What sort of issues are encountered slapping a secondhand ZF6 from one car into another, say from an XR8 into an XR6 Turbo. I understand they may run different shift programs. Any software flashing need doing, and if so, does anybody know of anyone in Sydney who can perform it? I'm experiencing a "gear range selector fault" of sorts, and after replacing the manual switch in the tiptronic, deduce it must be related to the TCM / valve body.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread - really helped me, just changed both of mine today. The stationary vibration is now GONE. We'll see how she goes on the drive to work tomorrow I'll second that there was no need to pull the turbo off, just dropped the dump pipe - anyone doing this make sure you secure your oxygen sensor wiring if you remove it away from the headers. Pictures of old and new attached for anyone who's interested...

What exactly is the idle issue? Noise / vibration / inconsistent?

Who makes this kind of system, and where can one get / look at it? The only decent photoelectric beam system I found was marketed by Bosch and it isn't exactly available to the public at a reasonable cost. I have experienced similar close calls in my front yard. No better deterrent though than an obedient dog though. Just make sure it's a smart breed. I can tell my cattle to stop barking with a quick command while I investigate ... he also barks differently depending on what he's reacting too ...

Yeah but the thing will keep spinning for at least 20 seconds after you switch it off ... if you have a keen ear you can hear this. It spins pretty freely and doesn't stop instantly when you switch off the engine.

I picked up a couple of 16" steel chasers for, uh, spares and found they wouldn't go over the 322mm rears.

Dear me, I did too say hotside. Was past my bedtime BTW, thank you for the explanation and all the pics as I will probably be trying something like this when I upgrade my cooler. I prefer the long short design of the HDi coolers, but I think the piping that come with them SUCKS.

I'm really interested in this. ExAreSix, were you able to use some of the piping supplied with the HDi Intercooler kit? Like pieces 1 and 2? Looks like you just used a small straight bit to connect piece 1 (see picture attached) to the NA intake in the picture you have above. Any tips for the witchcraft going on at the IC cold-side outlet down below which we can't see? Brendan, dunno if you have figured this yet ... but when you remove the hot-side piping (which runs under the battery) you can replace it with an under battery CAI from somebody like ProcessWest or Rapid ... the pod filter connected to it will sit behind your fog light if I'm not mistaken.

Count me in Reg. When the heck will I have time to wash the car between now and then?

No Mitch any help is good help. I've found the same thing I went down there today. As I say, I've "heard" a rumour that there are overseas produced metal sumps with a drain plug as used on overseas Audi's, BMW's although I wonder if this is for a different 6HP variant ZF box (who knows maybe they have the same shape sump?) The guy in Motospec today told me that there used to be a kit for making your own drain plug, and it sounds like a mighty good idea too provided it's done right. We did agree today that the "sealed for life" claim is just plain BS

Hey Kane. Did you buy the spark plugs pre-adjusted to 0.8mm or did you gap them yourself out of curiousity?

Really makes me think long and hard about a set of 19's or 20's. I think they'd have to be on like a show-set / weekend use only. Get a set of 15 inch drag rims for everyday use .... too bad the brakes won't allow for anything under 17 inch on the BF Half the repair jobs on the road in Sydney here are a f*ing joke. Anyone notice the natural "hump" in Cowpasture Rd near the Sydney Water depot @ Cecil Hills, or the natural hump Eastbound on the M4 just near the Eastern Creek service centres (that crosses all three lanes)? Both have been "repaired" and are now even worse than the original problem. At least the original humps were a SMOOTH transition up and down ... I cannot honestly say I have seen one single good repair job anywhere, ever. Key thing mate, document everything date/time, their responses, etc. That way your facts are consistent and you've got some recourse. Looks like you've already started ...

What'd you get? I'm gonna guess 344 rwkw.

I've called motospec, and they say there are only two sumps available for the ZF6 in our cars: - Plastic (Australian) + With Drain Plug + Fixed Filter - Metal (German) + NO Drain Plug + Separate Filter I was under the impression that there were three sumps: - Plastic (Australian) + With Drain Plug + Fixed Filter - Metal (Australian) + NO Drain Plug + Fixed Filter - Metal (German) + With Drain Plug + Separate Filter Can anybody who has done the fluid flush and sourced a replacement sump confirm any of the following? 1. There is a German produced sump WITH a drain plug AND detachable filter 2. A source and product code for [1] to avoid confusion. 3. That the Australian metal sump's filter IS detachable from it. 4. Are the bolts in the metal Australian metal sump interchangeable for the German metal sump (the bolts in the plastic australian sump are longer than one or both of the metal sumps). F6 Turbo and I performed a partial flush (3.3 L) of his ZF6 on the weekend with Transmax Z and the difference already is astonishing, much smoother changes. Now, all that can be very confusing. Help is much appreciated.

Get out and push next time

So that IS alternator whine I'm hearing in my BF? The subtle high-pitched whistle sound heard when the command centre/stereo is on Aux? It increases in pitch as your engine revs do?

It is not necessarily your sensor, although this can play a role. The automatic headlights didn't work in my BF II for some time, until NONE of the driving lights would work whatsoever. The "combo switch" was replaced, I believe this is Fraud Service speak for the indicator stalk, or a component inside that stalk. Once this was changed, the lights operated perfectly (including the auto lights you are asking about).

No, I did think about it. Stupidity is what gets people killed on the road, the power level of the car is irrelevant. You only need to compare what learner riders are allowed to ride to understand where I'm coming from with respect to power output, as we're heading the same way with cars. Inadequate brakes, out-dated technology, poor handling. These things tend to go hand-in-hand with being underpowered.

If I'm not mistaken, that MIL only reports errors with emission parameters, which can mean either two class of "problem": 1. Your car is not meeting the emission standards programmed into it as acceptable. 2. Your emissions diagnostic equipment I.e. sensors, associated wiring may be faulty, damaged, etc. When you are running big power, option 1 is a more likely scenario. Oh, there is a third type of problem indicated by the MIL: Your cat is about to melt. According to the manual the MIL "flashes at a rate of approximately one flash per second". Fail. If the engine isn't receiving the correct information from the oxygen sensors it will substitute it's own values. I don't know if this is usually changed by a tuner (or if it CAN be changed), but in a stock car if I'm not mistaken it generally means your car runs rich at idle and lean while driving (which is not good over time).

Yeah dude, punctuation makes it so much easier to read. Engine light, do you mean MIL? Just as a matter of prudence look at your oxygen sensor, this or it's wiring getting fried can cause this to happen (by some idiot failing to secure it in the workshop). Reason for edit: P.S. yes, that idle in the picture is not normal either.