Stazza_Brendan

You dont need a new outlet hose as the GTX3576R has the same 2inch size as the factory turbos. On B-Series I was able to keep the factory GT3582R actuator bracket on the GTX3576R. Drilling the tapping the GTX compressor housing isnt that hard. I was able to do it at home with the tools I already had. Although most people wont have taps in their toolbox. I have photos on how to do this if anyones interested. I used a Turbosmart 12psi actuator. Best installed on the bench to get the correct rod length. I went with a .82 rear housing which already had a larger then factory ford wastegate port and flapper but I increased and shaped it even better to control boost. On a B-series the compressor housing will be turned slightly more clockwise then the standard turbo when looking at it from the front when using the factory turbo actuator bracket. My Aftermarket hotside piping had enough play in the pipes/joiners to make up this difference though without buying/modifying parts. As usual, the water and oil lines all matched up perfectly. I just bought a 4inch 45deg silicone bend for my intake ($18 from Ebay) to match my Plazmaman 4inch turboside intake.

There's a huge thread on here devoted to water meth in the fuel system section. I'm running (well still setting up) an AEM kit with a 19l tank, progressive pressure pump, hand controller in cabin and nozzle goes before throttle body. I remember people using water meth systems on Sigma Turbo's when increasing boost to control heat/ping. They were suck through turbo.

Sounds about what we found up here with our tuner when my mate had the GTX3576R on his G6ET. Was happy at 400kw with octane booster for a bit of extra safety on 98oct. No Pump E85 here. Im getting mine tuned on 98 but using a decent water meth system to help make up the octane and add cooling. Im also using a smaller .82 exhaust housing for a ridiculously responsive turbo setup. Hoping to crack 380rwkw so I have 500rwhp.

Traded my 400 in on a new (to me) bike today. 2011 Kawasaki W800.

Nice, did spiro mention how much more was left in the turbo. Can't wait to get my gtx3576r tuned on my BF.

If you search you will find it. Basically you need both original keys for your car.To program the key to the car (key itself not the buttons), sit in car with doors closed. Insert first original key into ignition and turn to ACC, remove then insert second original key within 5 seconds and turn to ON. The car is now in program mode. Now remove the second key and insert the new key and turn to ON within 5 seconds. The door locks will cycle 3 times showing that a third key has been added to the car. You can continue this up to 8 keys per car. Don't remove the keys till door lock cycles have completed. To program the buttons on the remote. Insert original key into ignition and turn to ACC. Push rear demister 3 times within 5 seconds. Press a button on first original remote, door lock will cycle, then the same with remaining remotes. Then remove key from ignition. Flip keys are available off eBay cheap but you have to get the right one. BA and BF use different chips inside and a BA chip won't work in a BF etc. The BA Falcon uses a 4D60 chip and the BF uses a 4D63. Check the listing as it's usually listed. And BA and BF have different ignition barrels.

Got a FG style flip key cut, programmed it myself to the car.

Rolled ankle at work big time, Swelled up huge. Now parked up at home for my days off. Great.

Coolant tank in engine bay? [/url

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpost.php?p=5128180&postcount=323

No updates yet. Been busy time of year. And been a bit slack but the end is in sight. I changed my valve springs to crow cams ones. And Im in the process of fitting water meth. Just waiting on a fitting for the nozzle to go in the intake then I can fit the rest of the system. So far I've installed the 19l tank, the pump in the tray with some shielding. Mounted LED below the foglight switch in dash. Just have to find somewhere to mount the controller. Currently thinking inside the centre console. Just have to weld fitting before the throttle body for nozzle to screw into, run lines, place solenoid in engine bay and run wiring.

Everyone I know in mackay goes with Hardy Spicer setup.

I love my shockworks set up.

It's got a baffle moulded into it right behind the pickup. The pickup is at the lowest point.

All but done. Going to change the zinc bolts for stainless and use nyloc nuts. First I'll pull it apart (only 2 pieces to the mount now) and clean/polish it up. Also clean out the tray as it's filthy. Outlet on tank points down through hole in mount down to the pump.

Still haven't tuned my gtx3576r in a .82 housing setup yet. Getting close though, fitted crow valve springs and think I've sorted my boost control by getting the wastegate port shaped. Drove a manual F6 Tornado today that was 100% stock. The response from the turbo compared to my cars turbo is night and day. Mine just comes on so quick. Not the fairest comparison as I've got plenum, turbo side and full exhaust but it's real world result.

Pieces cut and bent into shape. Mate also welded brackets on so I can use less bolts to join it all together. Just have to drill some bolt holes and mount pump.

Yeah I got a solenoid for it. Will mount it near the nozzle in engine bay somewhere. The AEM controller has an output for solenoid.

I'm looking to get a 1/8npt bung made and weld it into the alloy section before my throttle body. I've got a plazmaman plenum. Should place it at least 4 inches before the throttle body this way. Going to mount my tank this weekend. Bought some 3mm alloy sheet and 3mm right angle alloy length. With the placement in the tray I'll lose very little tray space as it's in the awkward area above the fuel filler section so I'm not losing much usable floor space. Mounting the tank up high means I can mount the pump underneath the tank. Going to a mates engineering shop later to cut the pieces to size. Gotta look better then me butchering it with a hacksaw in the shed. Pics for placement. Final product will shield the tank. Probably won't make much sense till it's finished.

Still havnt fitted mine. Ordered a solenoid for it though as the tank sits higher then the injection point. So the solenoid will prevent leakage (lol) into the intake piping. Not good when my ute sits for up to a week at a time. Done the valve springs in my car so all that's stopping me from a tune is water meth install. Or maybe I should of saved my money and installed my gerni in the back and run the gun to the intake.

Im still learning to drive it. Best thing I found was an add-on called Enfuse. Take a bunch of photos from tripod in same position. Combine the photos for the best look. Picks the best lighting from each photo and combines it into one. Brilliant results with no fuss.

Feeling like I've been hit by a truck multiple times. Everything hurts so can't work on car, when new parts have just arrived. Love being sick on my days off.

Wont fit where I originally wanted. But it will fit where they put them in American trucks where its designed to go. In the tray in front of the wheel arch. Thinking that's the way to go. Will look at making it easily removable. Will ask my mate/neighbor who is boilermaker. He will have some ideas on mounting it. Pics later.

Superior auto parts. Off eBay.On a positive, looks like I've been sent the 30-3301 not the 30-3001 so I've ended up with the newer kit. Really impressed with the AEM kit. Tank is really well made, has low level sensor and barrier inside to stop the water meth sloshing away from the pick up. Has decent length wiring loom, conduit, vacuum line, electrical connectors, nozzles, good instructions, bolt kit to hold tank and pump in. The controller is sweet, will have to find somewhere to mount it inside the car. Only drama I can see is if the tank doesn't fit where I want it to. Can for size reference.

I ordered the AEM setup. But it only got delivered Thursday after almost a month since ordering due to a f*ckwit of a supplier.I've been at work so I get my hands on it tonight when I get home. Can't wait to start mounting it.