xr6twin

Thanks for the post gregaust, Yeh just trying to sus out what is involved, just general stuff. Yeh I thought a cross member and tailshaft mods would be needed but good to know what I can use as a straight bolt in. How would a BTR tailshaft handle the power? Is there a general torque limit before they decide to become a pretzel? How do the c4 go driving on the street being a 3 speed? I imagine trying to cruze at 100kph an xr6t would be revving its head off? Do you know roughly what diff ratios they have run? Thanks again for the info, much appreciated.

Does anyone have anything relevent to respond with other than power outputs? Im trying to seek some info people..... (I will add that the power bottle necked at the 520rwhp mark simply because the tuner was not game to push it any further with a t5 for obvious reasons) Im not really interested in keeping it manual, I still dont think a t56 manual will get it to its full potential in terms of giving it a chance to spool before the drive line grabs.

Hey guys, Just trying to find some info on, or if anyone has had any experience with doing a c4 manualized conversion into an xr6t? Iv got a mk1 BA ute that iv done a twin turbo setup on and it makes loads of power (520+bhp) but the t5 manual behind it has suffered a major let go on third. Iv been wanting to jam a manualized auto behind it rather than a manual just because I believe this will see a better compliment of the power output. (Doesnt make power till 3200rpm) Iv never had any experience with stall converters, what would be the best rpm stall to get? What would be the best diff ratio to run to get a decent highway cruizing speed? Anyone with any relevant info or opinions would be appreciated, Cheers Tim

Hey guys, This has nearly become a dead thread, but the twins are still making huge numbers! I switched to a pair of garrett gt2871rs's and so far she is screaming at 380rwkw 514bhp and a massive 740nm torque. Ill try get some more pics up as soon as I figure out how to get more upload quota. Cheers dudes. p.s orangeute, hows your project progressing?

yeh its just one of those things, you give em a good cover and screw it in not thinking that it could cause big damage.

Hey Guys, Not sure if anyone has every heard or experienced this problem but Iv just discovered a huge amount of damage to my crankshaft after doing a total engine rebuild, reinstalling the engine back into the car and noticing a servere oil leak coming from the rear main seal. Ill set the scene first: Tightening up the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank. Using a Loctite thread locker, as per the workshop manual. The bolts started getting tight before they had contacted the surface of the flywheel. At this point I knew there was an issue so I removed the bolts and checked the threads for damage. Failing to find any damage I put the flywheel back on, squirted a bit of thread locker in the holes and screwed the bolts back in. This time the bolts did begin to contact the flywheel before they got tight. I continued to torque the bolts up as per the OEM spec. All seemed sweet untill it came time to kick the engine over for the first time after the rebuild. It started and purred like a kitten till it started to heat up. There was a bit of a knock starting to form in the bottom end so I ran over to kill the engine, but before I got to the key there was a loud crunch. After killing the engine, I noticed a lot of oil dripping down from between the gearbox and the engine. I pulled the gearbox back off much to my discust and found what can only be described as a brand new rear main seal that had never gotten the oportunity to see a better day. I check all around the seal housing and the crank for some sort of evidence of damage that could have caused the seal to be ripped appart. Again failing to find any imediate damage, I purchased another rear main seal and made extra sure it was installed correctly. The car went back togther ok, and managed to find its way down to the dyno at Autotech to get run in and tuned. It was once it got home and was sitting in the driveway, I noticed a rather large puddle of oil sitting directly below the bellhousing. I stuck my head under and sure enough, there was an impressive amount of oil dripping from the plate that sits between the gearbox and the engine. A few choice words were exhanged between myself and the car, much to my neighbours amusement. So once again the car is back up on ramps with the gearbox on the floor. Amazingly the rear main seal was still perfectly in tact. This ment one thing, having to take the engine back out in order to rip the sump off and find out what is going on. What I found when the sump came off nearly bought me to tears. Large pieces of shrapnal had been floating around in the sump during the dyno run and had put large gouge marks in the bottom of my brand new Mahle Pistons and had momentarily been hit by the crank shaft balancers damaging them as well. How the engine didnt lock up on the dyno is beyond me but it managed to survive, and until lifing the sump off, it had give no sign of the extent of the damage inside. More investigation into where the fragments of metal had come from revieled something very odd. Like I said earlier, the flywheel bolts had gotten tight before locking the flywheel down, and once I had taken the number 7 Main cap off found why. The use of loctite on the bolts had created a hydraulic lock type effect while tightening them up, and me being a heavy handed Elec Fitter, had caused the back of the crank where the flywheel bolts to, to fracture in order to release the pressure that the hydraulic lock was creating. This explains the crunch when the engine was first fired over. One of the bolt holes had fractured that badly, it had pushed a piece of fractured metal off and this had caused the first rear main seal to get torn to bits. Due to the difficulty to see into that area by only removing the gearbox, I was unable to see the damage that had been caused. The piece of metal that had broken away from the crank shaft left a small gap just big enough for unpressurised sump oil to leak out past the new seal and still cause a major oil patch without giving any other signs of damage. The only way of fixing this problem is to replace the entire crank shaft and in the future be more careful when tightening up the flywheel bolts. If anyone has ever heard of this same stuff up please let me know.

Yeh, its got a new cam chain in it, the chain has a hydraulic tentioner on it as well, but yeh the tentioner could also be missing oil pressure to keep the chain taught, I think im just gunna try a lighter grade oil, try put that possibly to the test

Hey guys, Iv just finished rebuilding the engine in my twin turbo'd XR6 Ute to handle power levels of up to 500RWKW, and have noticed a much higher level of tappet noise coming from the head at idle. The engine started its life as an N/A BA xr6 Grey top, with 145000Kms on the clock. I have since removed the engine and strengthened the bottom end as well as a new set of valves (all the valve seats re-cut) valve springs and a custom intake plenum. + everything else that goes with a typical engine rebuild I noticed the increase in tappet noise only after I began to use Castrol edge 10W60 oil. (recommended to me by a local Brake Pro dealer for use in worked XR6T engines) I ran the engine for its first 30mins on Gulf Western 10W30 oil just as a run in to get the small metal shavings off the new rings and the freshly honed block. By run in, I mean it was only a case of starting the engine and letting it sit idle for half hr. Once I had run it for 30mins I dumped the 10W30 out and replaced it with the very expensive Edge 10W60, and ever since have noticed a large increase in tappet noise only at idle, although I never noticed the tappet noise while running on the Gulf Western 10W30. If I rev the engine up to any where above say 1250RPM the noise stops completely. The ECU has still not been dyno tuned so the car has never been driven from where it was rebuilt nor has it seen any form of boost, so im only going off what im hearing while the car is sitting stationary . I have heard myths that aftermarket oil filters can cause a restriction to oil flow at idle in cross flow ford 6's, where as genuine filters flow alot easier but dont seem to filter as well and need to be changed at lower K's than the alternate aftermarket filters. Has any one else experienced these symptoms on their FORD 6, and been able to fix it with something as simple as a filter or lighter grade oil?? iv had the tappet cover off twice since the rebuild trying to find any obvious signs of the noise, as so far have come up with sweet F.A..... :-) any feedback with be fantastic! cheers, Tim

just a tip orangeute u need to angle your turbos like mine are so you can fit the dump pipe in for the front turbo and also the induction pipework for the second compressor. either that ir you make one high mount and one low mount? that could work. how were you thinkin of mounting them?? mine are only high mount for the wow factor, but it is a VERY tight fit between the dumps and inlet pipes. yours is looking good though. hav you done any internal work to the engine??

Project update, I havnt been on to add updates for a while, but the latest on the TT project is, took it down to Autotech engineering to get dyno tuned. Cylinder number 5 was found to have low compression, so the engine has since been pulled out and everything has been BEEFED up with stronger internals. The compression failure was due to a burnt out exhaust valve. Forged pistons and forged conrods have been installed, 24 new valves and the seats all re-cut, nizpro valve springs 80lb injectors and 550hp walbro fuel pump. a custom intake plenum has been fabricated to reduce pipe lengths, and a new intercooler. then engine is fully reassembled waiting for some spare time so it can be put back into the car! ill post sum fotos of the progression so far. The new plan is to increase boost from 8psi to 18psi! get some real power outta this donk!

you could do a dual stage twin setup, it would work but im not sure if the power output will be as good as you would hope for. you would have to build your exhaust as a simple log manifold to keep your space at a maximum. that's the only thing I wish I would have done instead of making a fancy directed flow manifold just do a simple log. their ment to be the best for the thermal force on the turbine. if you want power from idle, youd be better off using a vortec super charger to make boost from down low then use a massive turbo say gt45 or bigger to take over the top end and keep the vortec spooling hard as well

yeh it only retards or advances. but you really dont need more lift duration on a turbo engine any ways, just run bigger fuel injectors bigger fuel pump and the boost will shove it all in the cylinder for you lol. yeh sounds like your idea is one to try. the twins on mine seem to make a hell of a lot of torque rather than kilowatts. but if your going for something that will pull like a mack truck the twins on a straight four is the way to go. My house mate actually has a gt28/60rs on an sr20 in a 180sx and its making 223.7kw at the treads and 300bhp. it is an aboslute weapon! the tuner actually has the turbo maxed out at 19.5psi, only thing holding more power back is the size of the turbo.

cams r fine, the vct can be tuned to suit the application. I was gunna do cams but was told the amount you pay to tune an aftermarket cam in these engines isnt worth the power you will get out. highly recommend replacing the valve springs, they r the weak point in these engines. its controlled to 8 psi, probably wood go more if the boost controller was set higher, once the internals hav been replaced ill be running 16psi n ill let u kno wen it makes full boost. good luck wit your project, post sum pics wen u start.

my o2 sensor just went in one of the dump pipes, if you look at the exhaust setup on a N/A set of aftermarket extractors the o2 sensor is at the point where the first 3 cylinders merge into one collector, essentially this is what my setup does. first 3 cylinders meet at a collector then through the turbine housing then out the dump where the o2 sensor is located. The two turbos used in my build are t04e, they spool up very early, makes 8psi @ 2700rpm, plenty of potential to go bigger. Im not going to argue that they are better or worse then a large single turbo, seeing as ball bearing technology can see a gt40r spool as early as my twins do, but at the same time im still running N/A compression which would give spooling response a head start over a lower comp turbo engine. The whole idea behind building a twin turbo xr6 was just to be a little different to most every other xr6t out there, and see if it could be done in my workshop at home. Its a project, and its been a good leanring experiense being able to build it, and the end result is very satisfying. Only benefit over a single turbo setup is mainly the WOW factor when you open the bonnet and people arnt expecting to see a twin setup.

Im not sure about the other guys with the twin setups, but I finally got mine on the road making 270rwkw :-) plannin on pullin the engine out soon and strenghtening the bottem end and upgrading the valve springs. keen to see what power you other fellas get outta yours. keep up the awsome unique builds!

Cheers, yeh I made it up out of sheet alloy. it was a bit of a *beep* to get to fit but it gives you so much more room on that side of the engine. Yeh I agree it should be tucked away from the factory, the standard overflow it ugly!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJtxGwmhJ5I Just uploaded a new youtube video of the ute