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You let it get to 3/4? Made any mods? As was said, more info will help ... where, when, weather and so on. Check relays, coolant leaks, radiator condition, drive belt condition, hoses, thermo (as mentioned) and so on.
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2 schools of thought. What you are doing or the other way. Wash, dry, maybe polish and slip a bag over your car to protect it from the weather. Drain most of the fuel. Lock it and remove the battery and get a battery minder to keep the charge in it. When time comes around, off with the bag, fit the battery, out with the tools and drain the oil and replace, change the filter, out with the spark plugs and crank it over unitl you have oil pressure. By cranking with the plugs out, you will have no compression and therefore reduced load on the bearings. Much nicer doing it this way than smashing the dry bearings with a running engine. Once oil pressure is up and oil has made its way around the engine, fit the plugs and kick it over. Its a bit drawn out, but should result in a positive. Also while your changing oils, you might as well do the differential oil, gearbox (if it was alive), fuel filter and put in some fresh fuel in. Air filter would be worth a look. Id mention checking coolant level when you start it, but that SHOULD be a given. Hope my thoughts help. Good luck with the gearbox too!
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I think there might be a problem with ground cleanance under the transfer case. Its something that colud be done, for a cost. Interesting idea though.
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Around 6k sounds about right. Of course, changing gear will give the best result over 5500. Rev limiter will be the same in every gear, however the speed limiter should cut engine output at 250kph from memory.
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Check the small things first, coolant, oil levels, check for exhaust/air leaks. Check all pipes and hoses are not caught or have rubbed anywhere. Check all the bearings on the drive belt and all pulleys. How often does the oil get changed? ... big ends and mains make a similar sound under load ...
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If you can feel a difference when you change the oil, you should change it more often.
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Got a multimeter? If not, get one. Best thing you can buy for this sort of thing. Check you battery voltage first, should be above 12.3V with 12.6V being perfect. Start and double check there is output from the alternator, about the 13.8V to 14.4V is good. Check the current draw on the battery with everything shut and locked/alarmed as fitted to your car. To do this turn the engine off, wait a few minutes and then disconnect the negative terminal, switch your multimeter to DC amps and connect it in series (battery-multimeter-earth lead), lock or arm your car and view the current being drawn from the battery. This will tell you if you have something sucking down the juice when it shouldnt. I would allow about 0.03A current draw but no more than 0.1A. You could also check the specific gravity of the cells in your battery, a hydrometer will show you the correct specific.
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Well said. Fuel pump. If you have done a 'cooler then I wouldnt worry about a plenum for a bit. Only reason I say that is it usually entails turbo inlet piping, 'cooler and then the plenum. I have a BF2 aswell, 'cooler, exhaust, squirters and pump with plenty of meat ... next step is the plenum setup. Mate has a BA1 with squirters, pump and F6 cooler standard exhaust and has about 290rwkw 600(ish)Nm. Standard exhaust flows well enough. Id do the exhaust, only because it wouldnt be as big on the pocket as the plenum setup. that siad, how much did you want to part with and how much power do you want to get?
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What exhaust? What engine speed is indicated at 20-40kph in 2nd & 3rd? Could it be something as simple as being in the incorrect gear for the conditions? Just throwing it out there ...
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Yeah. Peak tractive torque / diff ratio / gear ratio / dia of tyre in mm x 100 = very close to engine torque. Eg my ute: 8700/3.73/1/321.5x100=726Nm Have to be careful about saying the volume of air being moved by an engine because there in no mention of engine speed and volumemetric effiency. I know that a 15L Cummins ISX at rated engine speed and full boost (1 bar) will move 47Kgs of air per minute. Doesnt some like much, but you measure the volume of 47Kgs of air!
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Is It Illegal To Put Gauges On Dash In A Pod?
Ozzy replied to kscpauly's topic in Electrics Workshop
They come standard on the FPV's. I asked an RTA(NSW) inspector the same question and was told that so long as they do not exceed the height of the top of the steering wheel, your safe. But I dont know about VicRoads and their rulings. Surely it cant be too different. -
One should always take into account the exhaust gases cooling as they pass through the exhaust system and the need to maintain exhaust gas speed.
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Have to be honest, looks second rate. Id be sending it back and telling them to do it again and do it properly. It would be a rush until it dies off. I couldnt handle it. Mine is a smooth line and flattens out at 425rwhp using a flat 12 psi all over. Sorry to be a downer, but that's my 2 cents.
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Great post IH8TOADS!
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Back pressure is not wanted on a turbo charged engine. Its hard to get top end power and more back pressure from a system that will flow 1000Hp. Cant be too bad, lots of people use the system. But Ill before I get started. Good stuff. Either way youll be happy with it. Get the one you want. Your car, your coins.