XYZ

I know it can be done with 12mm, 6BOOST/FPT have done a few cars with 1000whp.. Typoon_freak made 1080whp 39psi with 12mm studs, but his torque curve was pretty soft.. I am happy with 800whp, just want the bloody head to stay on! However, we might have to soften the tune a little, last run we did torque hit 1200nm 3000rpm when the head lifted... Sorry for hijacking your thread John, the last thing you want to read about is head lifting issues especially when you've got a brand new motor... John, pics like you promised......

Cheers mate, I had been using the standard gaskets, I will be trying a MLS this time round.. Might even try this with the 12mm studs to see how it goes first, rather than pulling the whole motor out to go 14mm... I know John is using some new "top secret" gasket... Going to have to take to the pub to get him pissed so I can find out exactly what is... Lol

Has anyone heard anymore about the Carbonart control blades? Apparently designed so you can an 11" rim into the FG sedans.. I know they are out there, just haven't heard of anyone who has done it

Because the 86 and BRZ are NA (at this stage anyway) does that mean we wouldn't be able to regestrate the car if adding a Turbo? Been a long time since I've done engine swaps and not sure what the current rules are.

Yeah no more EVO's... Mitsubishi are going the electric path and investing heavily into this development. P

Really? 540rwkw on standard head studs and it didn't push and water?? Do you remember how much torque it was making possum? Found with mine, it always happened during peak torque and boost.. Lifting heads is not so much about total boost levels, torque has a lot to do with it.. You can tune around this, I know many tuners have said by decreasing the timing but increasing the boost you can make good power without lifting heads.. But then you just end up with a dyno queen car with no torque..

Bad batch was on his Tool steel head Studs... Unless requested otherwise, most motors coming out of Atomic are The standard chrome moly studs..

If water has found its way in there the seal is gone, best replace head gasket before it gets worse.. (see the vid a couple of pages back what happened to John's on the Dyno)

Bad... Done mine three times now... Head off, skimmed new gasket and Studs... Getting a little over it and biting the bullet also and going 14mm

You would have the standard atomic studs in your motor.. However, these still should be fine at your power level..??? Did it lift bad, or just out the reservoir

12mm x 3 or 4 different types like me...... ARP2000, Atomic Tool steal, etc......, none of them seem to hold the head down when pushing past 800+whp...

Hi Torque......

Looks like they lowered the engine further into the bay too.... Can't stop looking at it!!!! Love this ute!!! Lol

Didn't the sedan have over heating problems last time? Keen to hear what they have done now to over come this..

Hard to tell by the pics, but it looks like a garret style turbo? Maybe changed and running BW one. Haven't heard of many people running with the new BW turbos, would be great to see Dyno charts with BW turbo to compare.

Going by one of the sponsor stickers, running with Heltech ECU as well

Engine looks pretty serious.. Is that a dry sump I can see in one of the pics?

Anyone know details of the motor?

Not sure if this has been posted already.. But I love this!

It would just run rich in that case.. Worst is the other way round tuned on 70 than fill up with 85+.. Run lean...

I don't believe Fords have a flex fuel sensor.. The late model Holdens do and some other Euros

As long as the drum is sealed, it will last longer than you & I...

I don't believe you... I'm starting to think it doesn't exists... Lol

Probably spend a sh*t load lest than what I have now.. Lol

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