GinjaNinja

Mate have you tried Jaguar dealship servicing?? Our fords have almost identical gearboxes to that of the one fitted in the Jaguar, but they have a different design in the cooler system. If Ford proves to be unreliable then maybe try Jaguar

I'm glad there's a company that's honest, unlike the others (oh yeah our oil is the best blah blah blah what a load of crap)

Genuine ZF fluid folks ONLY no nulon no transmax no australian royal lubricants no nothing There is a reason why those are cheaper

ZF lifeguard 6 WAS an aftermarket fluid "authorised" by ZF (the autorized list which has since been revoked) not sure if this one is as bad as Transmax but there has to be a reason why the genuine fluid cost 2X more than the others, you get what you pay for. I rather be scared about using an aftermarket fluid than being scared of having to replace the gearbox.....again..... BTW I did check out the filter locations and the filter openings on both the steel pan and the plastic pan and they are INDEED slightly different in design But whatever you do, its up to you, the safest (but costly) way or cheaper (but fear of the unknown)

Well if u're just going to drive the car for 3 years and then sell it I think the Peddars would be the more economic option, but their product quality is poor compared to something reputable like Teins, you get what you pay for Only because I'm finding that my car handles twice as good as factory since I had the coilover, is it worth it? I'm keeping mine for a few more years so I say YES

Sweet how much are you paying for a set?

Performance wise?? Good luck driving around australian roads without scraping anything

Are those "super low springs" actually good for performance?? or just looks A coilover set cost a little bit more and a whole lotta performance Factory shockies are sh1t anyway they start needing replacement about 70k

If your car's running factory power levels every 60k is fine, 20k is not necessary only if u have 2394750923750927578092435 RWKW like the rest of the boys in this forum

Wouldn't it be better off getting a set of coilovers instead? you can adjust them at any time for street or for track. Even better of Tein has them available for the FG's

Arn't they about $400 for 20L from distributors?

Sweet as AP all the way!!! It is true you get what you pay for

Many shops use a "ZF alternative" made by Australian Royal Lubricants and this other one called "ZF lifeguard", I suggest you confirm with the workshop that they are indeed using ONLY ZF genuine fluid as other types other than factory ones may damage the valves and the clutches in the transmission. I have also been told that the steel pan has the filter in a different location to the factory plastic ones thus there is a remote chance that the filter may at times, fall out of its designated location and tamper with other parts of the gearbox. The filter itself used on teh steel pan has an opening that is slightly different in design and size so the trans has less cooling/efficiency effect (running at a higher temperature) I've been told to stick with the plastic pans but maybe others in this forum would suggest otherwise, what do you think???

Thanks champ that's heaps! At least I know which one's to stay away from Why the fvck would you need 2X xr6turbo's anyways lol as if 1 isn't enuff

Thanks xr09 for the tip, that'll become useful for future reference. Since we're on the topic of chassis any useful tips and hints to look out for in regards to differential mounts / bolts they are known for being fragile and prone to failure

Great sounds like a good combination Anybody used AP's with different pads other than Endless?

C'mon fellas suggestions please

So buying something "cheaper" doesn't necessarily mean it is actually "cheaper" after all I can see why a Bimmer 5 series cost twice as much as a falcon equivalent, ie. everything under the chassis seem 2X thicker, they even have a body brace on each side of the boot!! So what do u guys suggest what to look out for in the brakes/chassis department the front bearings, rear and front bush (my brake discs are due pretty soon I think its already cracked)

Why are the front and rear bushes that weak, it seems everybody's replacing them at 100k Seems like owning a falcon cost more than a BMW 3 series

So at which point were there signs that the bearings needed to be changed? For example noises, how the car drives, etc

So the front ones are disposable units also? If they weren't then u'd only have to replace the gasket and apply grease and put them back. So how many k's do u manage to get out of em' before u have to start replacing it??

Yeap starting to agree with you folks, lately I've been looking around at wreckers for spare FPV brakes, hard to get it seems, there's heaps of hsv ones but (why arn't fpv owners crashing their cars more often ?? ) Either that or I'm going for AP's

AP Racing sounds good, I've been offered a set of 8-pot KSport Fronts and 4 rear however don't think I'll be getting it anytime soon, their coil-overs are alright but. Anybody used Alcon brakes before? Folks reckon they outperform Brembo's and are on par with AP More suggestions??

What to look out for in the rear suspension area as it seems a bit weak when it comes to diff mounts / diff bush Whatever information would be helpful

Sup Folks What Piston Caliper upgrades are peeps getting these days on this forum here? Has anybody tried K-Sport 4 pots? Care to hear suggestions