cujo_r33

That's what I'm worried about. Of course, I don't want to waste money tinting it either if it already is tinted properly :s

Hi guys, I have a 50th anniversary FG XR6 Turbo which I bought 2nd hand. The side and rear glass are all marked as "tinted safety glass". Does anyone know what this means, e.g. is it a film, is it just colored glass, is it standard, is it a factory option? The reason I ask is I'm keen to know what (if any) UV protection it's giving me and my family. An example of one of the markings is as follows: (Ford) (E4) (S) TEMPERED 43R-000113 AS2 DOT-481 M248-1 TINTED SAFETY GLASS 10- G .... Thanks, Caleb.

Wow, nice launch! Awesome run... I'd be happy with a 12.99 to be honest

What was your 60' and mph for the 12.59?? That's crazy fast!!

Mine is stock tune, and by performance mode I mean the computer shifting, not me shifting. It does seem already from the replies above that drive isn't always the quickest, and the answer is "it depends on conditions and setup"...

I've heard a number of people say leaving the ZF 6sp in drive will give you the best ETs. Is this generally considered fact, or is it debateable? The reason I ask is I took my stock FG to Willowbank last night and Performance mode scored me better ETs (13.1 vs 13.3) and better mph (108 vs 106) than drive mode. Perhaps other variables were at play, but it made me wonder...

Hmm, interesting. I wasn't expecting that good street tyres would have such a hard time with the amount of torque our cars put out! Oh well, I may have to reconsider what I want from my tyres, although it does say a lot about the FK452s which, all things considered, sound like they were probably doing a pretty decent job...

Hey guys. I've got a stock FG XR6 Turbo, auto, running 245/35/19s and I'm sooo tired of losing traction midway through 1st gear whenever I floor it from a standstill. My previous Tyres (Fallen FK452) could hold traction on about 50% of surfaces, while my current Tyres (Falken FK453) hold traction on exactly 0% of surfaces. Will Nitto Invos solve my problem (I.e. hold traction on 100% of sealed roads) or will I have to go all the way to NT-05s? While we're at it, for those who have 'em, how do the stock Goodyears go, and what about Kumho KU31s (what I was planning on getting until the quick talking salesmen sold me on the crappy FK453s )?

Wow, awesome! Thanks for all the info guys! Hopefully I don't end up getting the track day bug, or it sounds like I'd need a lot bigger wallet! ;-)

ps Is it only the front pads that have issues, or will the backs need replacing as well?

Thanks guys. I think that gives me the info I need. I won't be doing this often, so don't want to spend ridiculous amounts of $, so might try pads and fluid and keep to 2-3 laps at a time and hopefully that'll be enough to keep me away from the walls :-)

Hi guys, I have a stock auto FG XR6T that I'm planning on taking to a track day soon just for a bit of fun. Will running a standard brake setup ruin my day? What can I expect if I leave them as is, e.g. will they last 1 lap, 2 laps at a time, etc? If its absolutely mandatory to upgrade to have any kind of fun, what would be considered the absolute minimum amount of upgrades, e.g. would a pad upgrade be enough for a "casual" track day? Thanks, Caleb.

They are KPMs. Are these considered "good"? Also, do you think the injectors are necessary considering the only other mods will be tune and cat?

The local tuner has a deal at the moment which includes tune, cat, and 1000cc injectors, but I'm a little nervous about the injectors because I'm not too familiar with what to expect from the mod (this is for a stock FG XR6 Turbo). What, if any, downsides are there to upgrading the injectors to 1000cc? Thanks, Caleb.

Thanks for the info, Paulie. Once tuned, can it ever be reverted back to the standard tune, e.g. for resale, or is that lost forever?

Hey Guys, Just had a quick question about the FG XR6T's ability to run either 91, 95, or 98 octane without an issue. I love this feature, because I can run around town on 95 (to save $), and just fork out for 98 when I know I'm going to the track, on a cruise, etc. If I get a tune (SCT Xcal or alike) will I lose the ability to do this, I.e. will it be tuned to one specific fuel? If so, why is this? How does the stock car manage it anyway and why can't a tuned car do the same? Thanks! Caleb.

Maybe it's a climate thing. Brisbane seems to be rust central. At least where I live it is.

Although I guess it's always possible any 2nd hand car may have seen a flood, in this particular instance I'd say it's very, very unlikely. Admittedly, when I was seeing this problem in other cars the place I was noticing it was not the seat rail (although I can't recall whether I ever checked a seat rail), but the seat frame itself, just next to the seat belt clasp. I would be stunned if any FG XR6 owners (particularly Brisbane owners) whose car is more than a year or two old doesn't have at least minor indications of rust in this area, because as I mentioned, it was present in almost every car I looked at when shopping around. Perhaps I was just lucky enough to look at all the worst examples in Brisbane? :superstition: ps I've owned the car for 8 months, and it's a late 2010 model.

Not that I've noticed, but I'll pay more attention to it next time it rains. Thanks!

Was just looking under my driver's side seat and saw this! :o The passenger's seat has a little rust as well, but not as much. Has anyone else suffered this problem, and if so, what did you do about it? Note: before I bought my car, when I was shopping around, I noticed quite a few FGs with the same thing, so it's obviously a widespread problem (at least in Brisbane). Mine didn't have any when I bought it, but obviously it does now!

Thanks guys. Will keep looking...

No, it's from Warrnambool VIC I believe (but as an interesting coincidence it's being sold in QLD )

Hi Guys, I was looking at buying a used 2009 FG XR6 Turbo with 33,000km on the clock today, and although generally in good condition, a couple of things got me worried so I pulled out of the deal. I have listed the issues below, and I was hoping someone could "sanity check" my decision, and let me know if I was right to run, or if I'm just being too picky and worrying about nothing or "normal" things: The drivers and passengers' seat frames were rusting on the innner side just behind the seatbelt clasp. I would call it a "medium" amount of rust, and it was enough that the rust dust had rubbed off onto the seats. I have seen this on another XR6, but it wasn't as bad and had not rubbed off on the seat; The dust/stone covers for the rear brakes were quite rusty. It wasn't just surface rust, I.e. you probabky couldn't clean it off. I know it's not an overly important part, but was shocked at how rusty it was for a 2-3 y/o car. I haven't seen this on any other XR6s I've looked at; The frontside of the main fan belt pully looked rusty, as did a number of bolts throughout the engine bay, and a reasonable number of other parts throughout the engine bay that were probably made of the same, specific type of metal; There was very minor rust around all stone chips in the paint; All aluminium parts within the engine bay were covered in a light coating of white "dust". It was quite splotchy like it was water related, but it was not centered around the radiator or any hoses. It was just everywhere. It seemed like you could wipe it off with your finger, and the salesman proposed it was probably some kind of residue from their cleaning process, but of course salesmen will say anything to get a sale, so I'll take that advice with a grain of salt; The coolant looked clear - not green; The log book only had the 5,000km courtesy inspection stamped. The 15,000km and 30,000km services were not stamped. There was a sticker on the windscreen advising the next service was due at 37,500km, so perhaps someone other than Ford did the servicing, but if there's no stamps, would that void the manufacturer's warranty? Thanks for any help, Caleb.