The issues you are describing sound to me like the standard car. For light throttle traffic driving, the biggest changes I noticed was a hi-flow cat change, diff gear change (6spd auto, went to 3.23 from 2.73) and of course a tune. I dont believe the paper air filter element is at all restrictive for your near standard output. Put the money towards a tune. Be careful, the bug may bite!!
Like Tab said, they haven't had one for years. ie. the 4spd autos never had one either. If you look at Fords approach to the trans oil being for the life of the box then I guess you wouldn't need one!! How to check it?? Same as you would a manual box or a diff. Remove the fill plug and wait for the dribble.
Made mine slightly different with a p*nis extension on the canopy. Thought about getting it stickered up to look like a big drill bit but havent bothered. Also has a sexy towbar. Very handy for..........towing.
Dare I say it but it doesn't really grab me. Not the whole design, just the blatant copy of something older. Reminds me of shaker's on BA/Bf's. Not my thing trying to add older stuff into late model. The concept of the custom bonnet with hump, vents, and different lines, definitely good stuff though.
Cane this p*ss out of it. Its a great way of showing up the weak points. Then you can fix them. But seriously, agree with Buf-phoon, put a trans cooler on it. Great insurance for an auto. Then cane it!! If its been on a dyno and survived then your odds are good for drag racing. Make sure its got at least half a tank of juice in it.
Has the bug bitten? Its all uphill (?!) from here. That is a good 60ft. I did about 13 runs one time at Benaraby years ago. Friends were calling me a circuit racer.
I'm not a big Star Wars bloke, but.............May the force be with you. There is a certain satisfaction with completely smashing something. Until you get the invoice. If you smash the reco box then it may be back to a 3spd for you. Youy could put a Gear Vendors unit behind that to regain your overdrive. They take 1200hp standard. Its only money and apparently it grows on trees in some places.
I'm curious as to whether you added the friction modifier. I was told its to stop chatter but actually softens the clutches and therefore reduces the LSD effectiveness. Anyone confirm/deny?
When I met my wife, I arrogantly told her that the car (Valiant Charger) comes before her. Anyway, she married me and now strangely enough she doesn't say much about my spending. Weird huh?! With my Xr ute, well........ its a work expense and I do all the financials. (Read: I do whatever I want).
I just did a ratio change in my BF ute at 47000kms. Lucky for me one of the carrier bearings was on the way out. The owner of the diff shop thanked Ford for the work generated by their diffs. I get the impression they whack the centres in and dont check any clearances. She'll be right mate!
Dont know if I missed it but where can the aftermarket pan/filter assemblies be sourced from and approx cost please? Also where to source the oil from as most general auto outlets tend to make you bend over with the pricing. I'd be after a 20lt drum.
I'd have to agree. Transbrake is for brutal (but awesome) launches at the drags. Definitely put a transcooler in. I wouldn't even consider NOT having one with a higher stall. Somewhere like freeze_dk pic shows. I always run mine in series with the radiator cooler for a street application. Radiator cooler first, then aftermarket one. Something around the 250-300mm square size.
To be honest, I havent tried either. Mathematically they have almost the same size. Big single would have a deeper tone and perhaps more droney. I was looking at the twin 2.5" myself so am keen to hear what others have to say.
I initially flicked the mounts that screw into the carpet on my BF. Then went searching when they started sliding. I say, teck screw the buggers to the floor!! that's my useless solution.
I think its solved. Yes, the flapper is closing all the way (at least when its all cold anyway). I had the ute on the hoist with dump pipe off and my noggin jammed up beside the gearbox. You are right about the closed loop part. I found out that the "Base desired boost pressure" is in "In Hg" not psi. I changed that and it went up a bit but also went harder. Increased the wastegate duty cycle a bit more and boost went up a bit more then settled on 12. I am confident its all good. Thanks for your help Ratter.