Big Dazza

Mine has done 50,000 k's with avg 11.1 on computer. 85% highway/m'way. When I had it tuned recently the usage jumped up about 0.5 l/100 klm. This means the computer only averages the consumption over a predetermined recent window, not from the time the computer was zeroed.

Just thought I would share my experience after owning the car stock (Fg F6) for two years. Couldn't wait until the warranty expired so went to Elite Automotive to get a stage 1 tune. Dynoed at 292 RWKW which doesn't sound huge compared to other forum members cars. Maybe a 30 KW or so gain. The numbers don't tell the whole story. The low and mid range throttle response is sensational compared to stock. I smile every time I drive the car, so a big thanks to Elite. I am still laughing from my first full power take off at the lights with an unsuspecting work colleague in the car; the story is getting plenty of mileage in the office. I am not sure if Ford have their demonstrators tuned, because mine never really felt as strong as the demonstrator I test drove. Now the F6 lives up to the hype!!! Cheers

Thanks for the feedback. I will take it to Ford and have it looked at under warranty as well as the flake of paint that has come off my dark argent rims.

In sharp low speed right hand turns with bumps ie roundabouts, I can just hear a clunk that is also transmitted thru the firewall and felt at the accelerator pedal (you can feel it more than you can hear it). Car is an FG F6, not sure if loose or faulty steering rack, or if FG model is known for a problem of this type?? Might take it in and query it under warranty.

Just after some advice on how to replace a broken fog lamp on the F6. Decided to have a crack at installing it myself. I bought an OEM Valeo fog lamp on ebay. I took a punt assuming that the F6 fog lamp was the same as for the XR. As far as I can tell one way to replace the lamp would be to remove the scrivets on the plastic inner guard than peel it back to reveal the fog lamp from behind. Might have to take the front wheel off for better access??? Then undo the 4 screws/bolts that hold the fog lamp assembly in place and replace it. Seems like a fiddly job to undo the screws due to the confined space and the horn also sits behind the RHS fog lamp. If anyone else has done this before let me know if I am on the right track. Maybe there is a better way. Cheers

My FG F6 has averaged 11.4 L/100 over the last 10,000 k's. Estimated 70% country and motorway driving. I give it a good burst whenever possible, but generally conservatively driven most of the time.......I need my license!

When I queried the 3rd gear as opposed to 4th gear run I was told something like that. Too fast for the dyno.

Just had a power run at CNJ Motorsport in Springwood. 264 RWKW, which is pretty much what you would expect if the 310 FWKW rating is true. The tuner (Kelvin) actually thought the reading was a bit high and queried it with one of the other tuners. I had a quick chat and it was explained to me how the results can vary a lot depending on the operator, particularly with air temperature adjustments/calibration. At the end of the day I really just wanted to know if everything was generally as it should be, not trying to compare mine with a 280 RWKW run or some of the really high readings from other forum members. The car has done 3500 klm, perhaps it might free up a little bit more with a few more k's. Doh! Forgot to get the dyno graph with torque curve instead of boost pressure, and the car was run in 3rd gear not 4th which seems to be standard, not sure why. Hence no useful torque figures for comparison with a standard 4th gear run. As far as I am aware the gear used for the run generally makes no diff to measured RWKW unless there is wheel spin. BTW, I originally enquired about a dyno run with a prominent Brisbane tuner and was told to expect 190 rwhp (that's not a typo). Needless to say I went elsewhere. Cheers.

Thanks. Will check the oil thread. I know there will be lots of different opinions. My main surprise was that FPV recommends cheap Castrol GTX as its oil of choice for the F6. I guess that way the dealers can charge $270 for the oil change and use $30 worth of oil. By my calculation the first year apprentice is getting charged out at around $400 per hour to do the oil change. The poor bastard senior mechanic at Ultra Tune who services my wifes Magna gets paid the princely sum of $21/Hr. Do the math. Sorry, I will get off my soap box now! If I use a genuine Ford filter it would be impossible to tell if I had done my own oil change, hence no warranty issues.

I planned on changing the oil and filter at the 3000k complimentary service. Was quoted $270.00 from FORD for mineral grade oil change..........WTF! They cannot be serious. On this basis, my car will never see the inside of a Ford service department after the 3000k complimentary service, and I don't even pay the servicing costs directly. So I will do an oil change myself, I plan on sticking with mineral grade oil until around 10000 to 15000k then changing to full synthetic. The owners manual says to use 15W-40 Castrol mineral grade for the life of the vehicle(Seems cheap and nasty for a 60K high performance vehicle). I know that this has been discussed at length previously. Any comments!

I plan on taking mine in for a power run in the near future just out of curiousity.I am expecting in the order of 260-270 RWKW. Will advise results.

Yes. Local to Brisbane. Hiro, looks like you are in the aftermarket performance parts game?? Unfortunately I will not be modding this car as it belongs to the company and a) Can't afford to void the warranty and b) Don't want to spend money on an asset that technically isn't mine. I am definitely happy with the power as is, and consider myself lucky to have scored the car in the first place. I found with my old (black) BF XR6T that if you used the power sparingly you didn't get used to the power too quickly. Cheers

Love the white. I knew as soon as I looked at a black one and white sitting side by side in the car yard and said white that I had made a good choice. Xmas bonus time. That's for sure. It's a full private use company car. You beauty!!!!!! I said to the wife and kids just sock and jocks for Xmas, Santa has come early this year.

Finally got to give it a wash and polish after 2 weeks of ownership. Amazing how white hides the dirt and grime, it was filthy but still looked pretty clean.

Finally got round to giving my new toy a wash and polish (after 2 weeks). I noticed that the panel fit where the rear bumper meets the quarter panel is poor ie the panels are not flush at the joint with the quarter panel sitting approx 1 to 2.5mm proud of the bumper along the line of the joint. It is consistent on both sides of the car. It is annoying me now that I have noticed it. Is this normal build quality, or has my new toy possibly had a minor shunt at some stage? Was purchased as a low km demo. If this isn't normal I will report it at the 3000k service. Feedback appreciated. Cheers

Congrats as well. You will love it. I assume you are buying brand new? I don't subscribe to the drive it like you stole it running in method but won't be long until I can open mine up, that it if the roads ever dry out in SE QLD.

Noticed something wierd on the way home from work tonight. Travelling on the motorway and thought I'd give it a quick little boot. Almost no response at all, tried it again flat to the floor, same thing, and with no kick down. Flicked it from PERF mode to normal auto mode and seemed OK. Maybe I accidently selected 6 sixth gear(manual mode) when I went into PERF mode, but the manual says it will still kick down if you floor it. Hope I don't have an electronic glitch already.

GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am totally stoked with this car. Apologies to all BA-BF owners out there but this thing is a quantum leap over my old BF-T, and I'm not just talking about power. Just the little things like the rear door shape and side mirrors that actually work make this car that much better. It seems like all the little bug bears of the previous model were sorted out on the FG.....awesome! Will posts pics as soon as it stops raining up here! Cheers.

Just put down a deposit on a white euro 3 F6 with dark argents and roughly 800k on the clock for 57K on road. I think that is a pretty good deal. Can't pick it up until Dec 1 when the company picks up the lease. I was tempted to get black but was drawn to the winter white due to black showing dust and paint defects (swirls and scratches in the clear coat) too easily plus the white looks cool with the dark argents. In the meantime my black 07 T in VG stock condition needs to be sold.....Not sure if I am supposed to mention that or not. IT WILL BE A LONG WAIT! Cheers

Good advice!! Most tuners claim to be better, safer etc than their competition. Don't want to be a sceptic, but if I get it on the dyno they are almost certainly going to say that the generic is crap, and a full custom tune is required. If I could get on a dyno and get an honest appraisal of AFR's etc, then its a great idea and money well spent.

I am thinking of getting a flash tuner with 3 generic tunes. The general consensus seems to be that generic tunes are bad!!!! Given that the factory tune is generic and my car is otherwise standard (ie no variables to make the generic tune more dangerous), then I can't see why it shouldn't be safe to run a generic tune given that it was a good tune to begin with. From what I know (not that much) a good generic tune is on the conservative side anyway. Has anyone actually damaged a stock car put down to using a generic tune??? I am assuming that the car was always running 98 octane, and that it hadn't been consistently flogged prior to the damage. The car is my daily driver, is a family car, and is driven normally most of the time with the occasional squirt of hard acceleration. Cheers

I had to know!!! Had it dynoed this morning at 211 RWKW (stock), which I suppose is par for the course. At least I know its me now, and nothing with the car. I hope to spec it up when the warranty expires. Only looking for 250 rwkw, at least that is what one tuner recommends to retain full long-term reliability. I have talked to three few different tuners and they all have different methods and ideas, hard to decide on who to go with (Brisbane). CNJ dynoed the car and they seem pretty good, and heavily focussed on reliability.

Yeah. that's the thing with modern cars and bikes for that matter. They are just so refined and turbine smooth that they really don't feel as fast as they really are. I have had cars in the past (a loooooong time ago) that felt faster than the XR6T, but I know that they weren't. Its just a seat of the pants thing.

That's what I want to hear in relation to the tune. It obviously makes a big seat of the pants difference. I would imagine similar to the effect of going from a N/A XR6 to the T in standard form. My car is still under warranty, so I have to decide whether to wait or not. I understand that no matter what I do I will get used to the power, but a little more for not a huge outlay would be good. On a side note I have a z1000 kawasaki, and even with that I sometimes feel that I wish it just had a little more pull, even though I am not really a good enough rider to exploit it. I guess you just have to accept things for what they are sometimes.

I have had my BF2 with ZF six speed for just over two months. Whilst not exactly mind blowing I thought the power felt pretty good, and I try to use it sparingly so as not to tire of the effect. Lately, I have been feeling that there is just something lacking, it just doesn't have that whack of power that you would expect from a car with the T's reputation. I have read journo's reviews where the terms "chainsaw", "necksnapping", "warp speed" etc have been used. There is no way I would use these words to describe my T in standard trim. Is this normal to feel this way after only two months? And I don't even give it to it all that much! Could there be something wrong? FYI I run mine on Caltex 95 octane. Obviously a tune is on the ajenda. Will a 98 octane tune with around 230 - 240 RWKW give me a substantial seat of the pants improvement. That is about as far as I want to take it at this stage, as I cant afford or justify blowing huge bikkies on go fast bits.