Redback

Here is a mod you can do to your air box.

I tried to fit the 342 with no luck. The inlet and outlet arn't offset like the factory Delphi. They inlet/outlet are located on the same side which makes the fitment off the filter almost impossible. The filter is also a bit too big and chunky to squeeze into the pot. I took it back for the 341 and it fitted much much easier. Maybe someone else who has fitted a 342 can also shed some light on this?

Mate, believe me if you can swap the 342 for a 340 or 341 before the install you will save yourself a lot of mucking around trying to fit it into the factory swirl pot.

Someone finally using their wallet wisely! My mods cost me around $ 2300 all up tuned for an extra 110kw at the wheels. Some guys here spend that kind of money on an exhaust only? Different coarses for different horses I suppose!

How did you go with the pump install? The pick up on the GSS342 is not offset like the 341 and the filter is a real b@#$rd to get on. If you can get the 341 it will make life much easier. Was yours hard to do? Also with the HDI install you lose your top snorkel. Make sure you re route the cold air using a duct or use a larger intake than the F6 behind the snorkel because the opening on the F6 snorkel on its own may not flow enough. If you can avoid it, don't remove the top snorkel and leave the air box volnerable to hot air from the engine and rad fans. If you look at your mods they are similar to mine so I think you should be on the money with about 300rkw.

I must admit that my opinion is biased owning a HDI cooler. If we are going to compare lets not overlook the fact that the RAPID kit also uses a chinese core. In my opnion the HDI kt uses most of the available revealed air space out of all the coolers. It is wider than the RAPID kit and also has a 100mm thick core. I found about a 2-3psi increase when I bolted it up prior to the tune, so it definatelty flows more over standard. Its bar and plate design is also effective in heat transfer. At over 300rkw+ I find no power drop from heatsoak on back to back runs like I did with 250rkw using the standard cooler prior to my new mods.

Upgrade it now mate and save yourself money on tuning in the future. Wack on as many mods as you can afford before tuning.

Silicon spray is what we used to use in the workshops.

Your UBP is also a restriction. Also porting the wastegate will help run a more consitant pressure without boost spikes. Something I need to have done.

I would have gone white if anything on a blue car. Just my opinion.

Boost PSI is usually sensed at the manifold where it is most convenient to tee into. Depending on your intercooler/pipe work setup and pressure drop across it your turbo may be producing 18psi at the turbo comp housing to make 15psi at the manifold. Don't confuse psi to flow rate as well. You can still get 15psi of pressure through a straw and through a hose, which one is flowing more air. Another vehicle set up with an effiecient exhaust and intercooler is producing 12psi at the turbo comp housing to make 12psi at the manifold with no pressure drop and better air flow (it is now using a hose not a straw to blow through). Now at 12psi the turbo is spinning slower and the air is being compressed 6psi lower. Remember that 6psi of pressure is like applying 2.5kg of weight to one square inch, it's a big difference! The more you compress air the hotter it gets. Hence the less efficient your combustion process becomes. Colder air has a higher oxygen/nitrogen ratio than hotter air. Inect more colder air/fuel and the bigger the bang. That is why your car pulls harder on a cold night. It's almost like you're injecting a small dose of Nos/fuel. You can run more advance timing charts when you have cooler air which enables a more complete combustion process avoiding detonation. Sorry to rammble on but to answer your question other cars that are making more power at lower boost are basically using a more efficient intake/exhaust setup. Also like forddriver 1 said not all cars are the same, depending on tolerances from factory one car might have a slighlty higher compression ratio which will in turn need lower boost to make the same power (volumetric efficiency). Sorry for the essay answer but I hope this helps.

Aftermarket ECU is the way to go when then engine has been modified way past the factory parameters. I use to fit and tune Microtech. Not as advanced as Motech and Autronic in respect to closed loop etc. but when you can live tune you spend 45min or so on the dyno and the car is sorted. Also the factory ECU isn't capable of correctly managing boost pressures of 20psi+. Hence an aftermarket with 3bar map is ideal. Good luck with your project supercharged88!

O.K to put my curiosity to the test I unplugged the rear tail lights and took the car for a drive. The cruise did not work. However the traction control operated normally as I thought. The ABS would also be operational since it uses the same inductive pick-up sensors on the wheels. A couple of high wattage (5W) resistors would fool the cruise module should anyone wish to use LED lights. They can get pretty warm so you need to be careful where you place them. Still can't fathom why they measure the globe resistance for the cruise? Oh well it is what it is!

I'm looking at purchasing a set of LED lights but I think your information sounds a bit misleading. Your saying that if you have no brake light globes or if they both blow when you get hit up the rear your ABS and cruise control won't work ??? Why would the ECU monitor the brake light globes for this curcuit ??? There is a switch on your brake pedal that is used for ABS and cruise. It doesn't measure the resistance of your globes for this curcuit. The only times resistance is monitored is if your vehicle has a lamp failure module which will throw a brake light failure light on your dash.

you said it, the factory dump is 3". Just go a 3" with a 4" body if its comparitively cheaper. If we're only talking about $ 50 difference mate fit the larger one. Just make sure that they are 200cpsi and not 100 if you want to stay legal. Otherwise you might just aswell have punched your cat out. I've got a 3" cat on it at the moment and it's flowing the kind of HP I want. At the moment it's mods like a ported wastegate and actuator that is holding me back and not my 3" cat. It depends what your target HP is? IMHO don't waste money on a system that handles 400rkw + if you never intend to push it to that.

Supersh#t sell Black silicone joiners for about $ 11. You only need 5 of them. Having the top of the grill is a bonus I can now instal my PWR trans cooler there. Olso if you buy off the same seller on Ozition, as I did, it's $10 cheaper cause his fees are lower than ebay!

XFORCE 2 1/2" Centre muffler and 2 hot dogs for rear. Sounds Good.

Hey Guys, I have searched the forum and seems that most people have taken their vehicle to a Trans place to get their boxes flushed. I'm handy with spanners so I'm not scared to tackle this providing that there are no special pumps/tools involved? I know everyone says that it should be done on a hoist but has anyone out there done this at home with a jack? I'm talking about a full flush not service. If so what tool/pump was used to flush the convertor? A brief run down on what to expect or how to would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

So am I. Don't know if C&V's dyno was feeling happy on the day? I also don't know if their dyno is a happier reading dyno than most, does anyone know?

Hey Mate, Here is my dyno graph which shows the boost curve. My guage in the car shows 1-2psi more but could be because it's a cheap guage. Thanks.

If you add an F6 lower snorkel with a K&N Panel filter this will also produce noticeable dose noise.

Did the same thing but instead of buying new terminals I was able to undo the crimp, insert the wiring in, crimp and solder. Worked a treat.

Had this fitted to my car and tuned to just over 310rkw with real good heat exchange. I spoke to the guys at HDI and they recommend spray painting over powdercoating as this is a thick coat which will vary the aluminium's ability to dissipate heat. The factory snorkel is removed due to the cold side piping hence why I fitted an APS CAI. The cold piping runs within about 15-20mm of the A/C compressor but does not foul even under load.

In NSW it's a 24hr cooling off period from dealers. I don't think there is much to protect you from a private sale. Sorry to hear about your purchase matey.

I have checked this myself. The ECU supplies power to the solonoid keeping it shut to build up boost, when it releases the voltage the solonoid opens allowing boost pressure to hit the actuator and open the gate. Hence, if you unplug the solonoid it's essentially the same as runny a hose directly from the turbo comp housing to the actuator. Get yourself a boost guage and check it. If it's only spiking by about a pound or two I wouldn't stress because the factory parameters on the ECU map will have a rich value to tolerate any factory boost spikes should they occur. If the boost goes beyond what the factory ECU map can tolerate the vehicle will dive into limp mode. If you want to do thing slow that's fine but you shouldn't be bolting up an exhaust and intercooler and racing around for months. These vehicles are sensitive to inlet and exhaust changes and should be custom tuned to extract safe and reliable HP. Hope this helps mate.