Redback

Hey Guys, I just picked up an XFORCE exhaust, 4" dump, 4" cat and 3.5" single system. Is there a difference flow wise compared to the 2.5" twin and has some one actually flow tested them? Is there an exhaust note difference? Are there any pros and cons with the two different types? Sorry about all the questions but I just wanted to pick someones brain on here. Thanks.

Sounds like it is starving for fuel. Did they put a flow guage on it whilst on the dyno. If someone has put an aftermarket pump on it it could have a split hose in the tank. Or it could simply be the pump giving up. Surely that would have checked if the fuel is up to scratch when it comes on boost right?

When it's in neutral does it rev freely or is it only under load? Coils will usually play up under load but if it's also not reving freely sounds like it could be your cat mate.

Thanks Clarence!

I'll take 8.30. Is that o.k Tangcla?

Jasol that looks awesome. I'm thinking of painting my pipes black aswell.

thanks for that mate.

Sorry guys my bad I thought this was a standard LE 4speed. I don't know if my instructions apply to this box, from the above post I take it does not. F6 Tornado, out of curiosity what colour is the Automatic transmission fluid in these boxes if it's not red like standard transmission fluid? Again appologies for the miss post.

mate it depends if you are looking at doing a full flush or service. How many km's has your car got? If you are doing a service, drive the vehicle to warm the trans fluid. Drop the sump as there is no drain plug and let the fluid drain. Make sure you use a large drain pan. When you undo the sump make sure you drop one side only so the fluid is coming out of one side or else it will go every where. Remove the spring retainer that holds the filter and replace with a new one. Clean your sump and change the sump gasket. Reverse order to re assemble everything. Remember not to overtightn the sump bolts as they do not need a lot of torque, I think it's about 12nm. To refill you will find a plug towards the tailshaft yolk on the drivers side. Use a long hose and a funnel from the engine bay to fill with new fluid to the brim of the plug or until it starts to overflow. This should be about 4-4.5L. But before it is full, fill the the box with about two litres and then shift through your gear selector to distribute the fluid through the box. If you are looking to fully flush the box take it to a transmission shop to do for you. However if your car doesn't have many km's it is not necessary to flush. You will know once you do a service, if your oil comes out looking like crap you probably need to flush, but if it comes out nice and red then keep servicing it about every 10-15000kms. This way you are exchanging new for old fluid every time and keeping the box clean. Good luck!

hey mate what area are you in? I might be able to help you with the install?

I've been told by an exhaust shop that a 100cpsi cat wont pass an emission test. Might as well run a dummy cat.

Make sure that the ground is level when you measure because even a slight slope towards one side places more of the vehicles weight to one side.

Midnight it is then! Can I be added to the list please? Also what is the exact location in Penrith? Thanks

I picked up my intercooler from Seven Hills and spoke to Justin. He told me the same thing about the HDI not being stamped due to it being Bar and Plate. He is very honest and can assure you that the product they sell is from HDI. Alot of users here brand this product as inferior compared to the coolers that our site sponsors sell, however, some of these sponsors coolers also use a chinese core. Not that there is anything wrong with that but don't be sucked into percieved value, just because it costs more does'nt necessarily mean it's better. Bang for buck there is no comparison out there.

The AMP is only used to drive the sub. You will need to pick up your speaker wires from the ICC. If you want to drive another sub you will need a high/low converter picked up off the sub wires and then run RCA's to your AMP.

Hey, I would like to jump in at the end. What time is that Tangcla?

mate as far as I can tell the factory amp in the boot is just for the sub. The blue and light blue wires go to the sub. The two yellows are powers. What are you trying to achieve?

Sounds like coils could be gone mate.

Hey mate, I got a cheap set of drilled and slotted rotors off ebay. They look like they are from china. Pedal response has imroved and brake fade seems to have been eliminated. I have got Bendix Ultimate pads in the front. Your DBA rotors should perform even better. Overall I am happy with the performance of these rotors. BTW There is also a round cup washer that is in front of the rotor when you remove the wheel. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry it off evenly all round. If this is seized and you dont remove it taking the rotor off will be harder. Here is what my rotors look like:

Welcome mate. I haven't seen a G6 up close but I believe you might be describing where your towing hook attachment might go?

I had a 1/2" socket with a universal joint on the back. Worked fine, but I can see your frustration.

Funny you ask this because I just finished doing brakes and drilled/slotted rotors all round. As Rootster said as soon as you remove the front wheel undo the 2 x 15mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket and remove the whole assembly off. Just press the pads and they will fall out. Before you put your new pads in remember to use a brake compressor to squeeze the piston back in because your new pads and rotors now have more material on them being new. When you have the caliper assembly off the rotors will just wiggle off. Just reverse this order to reassemble.

Yep that looks good. I had a standard fitting kit when I got my 342 and it wouldn't fit but you'll be right with that. Sorry to cause you doubt but its better to know before hand.

I found that you can get an XR6 fitting kit for the 342. It uses a slimer filter and an adapter which fits to the inlet of the pump which redirects the pickup. Is the filter on yours a long rectangular shape or is it more of a square? Did you get a little white plastic adapter? Look at the photo I have attached, if your filter looks like that with the little white adapter you'll be fine.

I can't take credit for the photo. Someone was selling this setup on ebay so I saved the picture should I ever want to make one. I ended up finding an APS intake so I never got around to this. It does look like a simple mod using only a sheet of say 3mm alloy cut to size and riveted to the box. Keeps the hot air out and feeds from behind the headlight. Seems like a $20 job.