Redback

Crumple zones are embedded on a factory bonnet along with catches on the hinges which will cause the factory bonnet to fold in a collision. This prevents the bonnet from entering or smashing through the windscreen in the event of an accident. Seeing as fibreglass will just break/shatter I don't see any prblems with them being dangerous in an accident? Can someone shed some light on how they are dangerous? Also all the insurance companies care about is whether or not the parts they are changing cost more than what the original would be. If you take it into a panelbeater who is an authorised repairer for your insurer he'll just simply claim for a standard bonnet.

Could be a bad connection between the Icc and the plug that sits on the firewall. You didn't pull the Icc out for any reason did you? The BCM is plugged up via that plug. Hope it gets sorted Neil.

That's the way to do it. Sometimes it's easies to get a chisel and give the edge of the nut a hit. This will help free it.

Mate, congrats on the new PB. It's great to see that our cars are among some of the fastest in Australia. Keep flying the blue oval flag high!

Just used some common sense. I ran the inlet from the tank to the bottom of the three, return back to the tank at the top (overflow) and return from the fuel rail to the middle.

Holds boost nicely mate. Congrats on the new founr power mate. I bet it felt like a different car when you drove out? Would have put a smile on your face!

What the f*&k? It's fu&*ing idiots like this that keep me in and out of court rooms. Argh......... :gunsfiring: Did this happen around work mate?

Does anyone know out of the three barbs on these custom surge tanks what goes where. You should have a return from the fuel rail, in from the tank and a return back to the tank. The new outlet to the rail from the 044 pump is obvious. Does someone know the order of the 3 starting from the top? Thanks guys.

It would go faster with a xforce, monza and a flash tuner.lol.....

Mate there are heaps of guys on hear that are running a Monza without a tune. I would best leave it to a tuner to respond as to if it needs a tune or not? I know they flow a bit better but I don't know how much tolerence for compensations the factory tune has?

The only way to make it look treat and done properly is as follows: You need to remove the intercooler and have the rough casted end tanks sanded back smoothly. There are a number of bits for use on drills etc. But basically you start with a rough grade and work your way down to a smooth finish. When your done sanding you need to buff the sanded end tanks up to a mirror finish. This can be done with a buffing wheel on a bench grinder and then finished off with a loose flap wheel and polish. Once the end tanks look like a mirror, you mask the end tanks and spray the core with a sliver paint. This is how the intercooler places achive a polished cooler look. You can forget about chroming as you first have to nikel plate aluminium before chroming and the fins would also look like sh?t, not to mention that you would probably turn the intercooler into a thermoflask where it would retain heat as oppossed to dispersing it. Mate if you're only interested in looks it would be less work if you just bought a monza for a couple of hundred bucks.

Mate the cross sectional diameter of a 3" pipe is not enough for our xr6t. I dont know if the FG has twin 2 1/4 like the BA/BF but 3" on ours isn't enough for future mods.

At 2700 rpm I get about 1000nm of torque come on. So even in the dry and being an auto if I plant it at about 80 kph I can still get it going sideways.

could be a million and one things. without hooking up some guages or testing equipment you are in the dark and just guessing and wasting money. You could start by hooking up a fuel flow guage if you can get one or simply remove the line off the press regulator and run it into a bucket for a min. You should be getting about 1.5l per min. However the pump or regulator could be breaking down under load. It is really hard to diagnose something sight unseen. Best to take it to someone who knows what they are doing mate.

Front pulley to crankshaft 125nm.

Use Silicone Spray on the rubbers. It will fix it.

Congtrats on the new found power my friend. I had the same problem starting with my 558 bosch injectors and the previous tuner. Tooks Jims advice and used Nizpro injectors and now that it's tuned you cant tell the difference between stock and modded. Starts first hit.

Hey Jarrad, Could have a sticky actuator.You could have a smoke test done on all your intake to ensure that you dont have any leaking pipes or joins. Just make sure you check all your hoses and pipes for leaks and make sure your clamps are all tight. Also try servicing the actuator solonoid. If you need an actuator I have one lying around for $50 (standard one), otherwise you can get a 12psi for around $140 but will need a retune. Cheers.

Your manifold bolts could be loose. When I pulled my turbo off they dont run a gasket fro the manifold to the turbo. Just pull off all your heatshields and take a look. You should be able to spot the leak then.

Original size piping, 2.5". I am happy with the power it's holding up. However, I think if I was going to raise the bar I'd be upgrading. But lets face it for a $ 500.00 cooler it's doing a fantastic job so far.

lol.stolen.... We should get together for a cruise, I'm only in Plumpton. Hit me up with a PM once you move in on the weekend! Elias.

Depends on where you live. If you are in Sydney you can pick up from Seven Hills.

John_k here on the forum is running a BF with a Monza and 347rkw.

I was out and about last night in the T. I got excited and had a bit of a friendly squirt with another lime green BA/BF T in Hebersham. I know it was naughty but couldn't resist. I was wondering if anyone here owns it or knows it. It would be good to know that there are some other enthusiasts in my area.

Yes 2.5"