Redback

if they decalre the amount you will get stung for the duty. max is $ 1000 AU.

mate you need to do some diagnosing. no one is going to give you the answer to this problem on here without testing. if you think the relay is hooked up correctly then undo the power feed that goes down to the pump off the relay and try it. if the fuse doesn't blow then you have a short in that wire going down or the pump is shorting. if you use a test light just make sure that the relay is hooked up correctly. the original wire off the vehicle is a negative which goes to the relay coil. then an ign feed is connected to the other side of the relay coil. you have a positive power supply which is fused that goes into one side of the N/O contact side of the relay contact and then the other side goes down to the pump. should'nt be too hard to work out where your short is.

Spray some silicon spray on the belt.

Mate a new wheel shouldn't cost more than about $ 200 plus fitting and balancing. Cheap if you pull the turbo off and take it down. Try Precision Turbochargers in Wetherill Park Sydney.

I have used them mate. They did help with the brake fade. They did'nt do much for stopping power. That's where I changed them for Brembos. Now the car acttually pulls up.

Hey Guys, I have been tossing up whether or not to bolt up a plenum to my new engine that is being built. I have been told that a few of these plenums with the throttle body mounted on the front tends to lean out the rear cyclinders. Tests using an exhaust gas temperature meter have apparently shown that the rear cyclinders are running hotter. Apparently the best design is like the APS/Atomic with the throttle body mounted in the centre. Also why did Ford not mount the throttle body to the front, rather they have also opted to mount the throttle body in the centre even as they moved forward to the FG? Can someone shed some light on this please?

So what kind of power is it supporting now mate.

place a smear of sealer on the bolts. the bolt holes are open to oil in the sump.

Having trouble finding that image of the open XFORCE muffler mate. Can you point me in the right direction?

Hey BJC. I had heard that this was a restricition on this system. What muffler did you end up using? Obviously it is a custom job. Any idea on the brand of muffler u used? Is it stainless? What kind of KW are u now supporting with that system?

Thanks for that sraughberry. I was lucky and didn't have any fitttment issues with it and the cat has held out so far. I just don't want to put the new engine in and have it on the dyno to find out the exhaust cannot flow anymore now past say 400rwkw.

Yeh the products are Plazmaman. The guy before me had an Intune tune on it and it was pinging its' head off so I imagine the damage was done before Tunehouse squeezed it to its limit. No built box and no runs. Lasted about 6 months of daily driving.

What is the max power u can squeeze out of the 4" dump into 3.5" straight system before creating too much back pressure? Can you c it over 400rwkw? Also has any one had any experiences with the Tunehouse sytem?

Hey guys, It's been a while since I've been on here. The car was running very well for a while until it threw a rod on number 2 cylinder. It left me with a big mess to clean up. I have since got another block to work with and am using Brad from Atomic to do the following to the engine. I am planning on running about 400rwkw. Please let me know if there is anything that I should be adding while the engine is apart. Atomic HD valve springs CP pistons and Atomic rods Race girdle billet oil pump gears and modified housing Stud kit for the head

You dont have to drop the diff out. I done the job on jack stands. You do have to jack the vehicle pretty high though. Just rotate the pipe as you insert it and it will go in.

I get occassional valve float usually when I give it on an open freeway and the engine isn't as heavily under load. I have personally tested them on the bench using a valve spring compression tester against Atomic springs. The Atomic springs have about 10psi more seating pressure and are a proper conical type spring like the originals and not something out of a V8 that simply happens to fit. I have lost faith in Nizpro springs and the number of reports on here speak for themselves. Buyer beware.

Do not attempt if you have no mechanical knowledge. Brad at Atomic hires his tool for $ 50. Also do yourself a favour and buy Atomic springs. Do not make the mistake of buying Nispro as I did.

I've done them myself and I reckon it shouldn't cost more than about $ 300- $ 400 in labour. Someone who has done this over and over again shouldn't take longer than about 4-5 hours to complete.

The Bosch 044 fuel pump flows differently to the stock or a walbro pump. I would have your AF's at least checked on a dyno once installed. It could now be flowing in more fuel at the same injector pulse width that it was tuned for.

There are motorcycle repair kits that will probably suit what you need. I found this for you that might help: http://www.racewear.com.au/product/subcategory.cgi?sc=34

KN have a cleaning kit that you can pick up from most auto parts stores including supercheap auto. You spray the cleaning fluid on it which releases the dirt and oil. You then rinse the filter and re oil with the supplied oil. It will come with instructions and cost is about $ 20.

The T's run open loop on WOT which means there is only minimal fuel/ign compensation. If you make enough of a change to the way air is entering and leaving the engine the ecu doesn't know how to compensate for these changes. Many other vehicles run closed loop on WOT which are able to compensate for changes providing the computer has tables in its map which match these changes. If these changes are above and beyond the computers maps it will simply go in to a rich limp mode which is why you see a lot of WRX and 200SX with black bumper bars. They have boosted them without a tune so the computer simply runs richer to stay safe. Hence why your mates car has survived. His car is probably running a rich tune with retarted timing. Should he have it tuned he will see an increase in power and fuel economy.

If it's insured wait until some hail hits, or you have a mysterious accident.lol. If it is as bad as you say then you're probably up for a minimum of about 3-5k to do a full respray depending on which panel shop you choose. You can do the individual panels but you still need to blend and clear into the other panels next to the repairs, so you might as well hit the whole car if there are bits and pieces all around. Be careful of shops that will tell you 2k for a respray, you'll end up getting what you pay for. However if you choose this road be aware that the car will never end up as they are from factory. There aren't many cars that have been sprayed that you can't pick the difference in the peel and finish. Very rare to find someone these days that actually takes pride in spray painting.

What was there results of the flow testing? The stock coolers also flow well but they don't dissipate heat well. By the time you organise pipework and messing around you're better off buying a cooler off any of the sponsors. They have been dyno proven to work time after time.

Bought mine for $130.00. Its the thicker core probably out of the GT. It only takes about 45min to change if you're competant with tools.