Redback

That housing in that conversion was machined to accpet the T04 rear wheel which releived the backpressure on the rear housing.

I was looking at doing the same thing to mine but was strongly advised against by a number of Turbo specialists and my tuner. I have a BA turbo which also has a larger exhuast housing. I suggest what was suggested to me, bite the bullet and go for a different turbo and manifold. Until then I am just going to max out my turbo which sould see me through to about 410rkw. I have cooler plenum exhuast etc...

By a restriction in the exhuast end I meant that the actual exhuast housing is too small to cope with the upgraded flow that you are going to throw at it from the comp wheel.

But I thought that the built box was 'tough as' ? These boxes are just not cut out for the job. When mine dies I'll be looking at a powerglide or a C4.

Atomic do a replacement stud kit. If you only mod the front end of that turbo you are going to increase the exhaust back pressure on the rear end and have different issues. There is alot of restriction in the rear turbo housing. Just think of doing a lot of mods to your intake and only running a 2" exhuast, ultimately this is what you would be doing. You're getting the air in but not out. Good luck with it all mate sounds good so far.

the head is exactly the same. just replace the exhaust valves with stainless turbo ones. as posssum said they are stainless to handle the extra heat.

What is a tough built BTR? They can still stuff up mate. All they do is put some upgraded bands and clutch plates and some places mod the valve bodies. About $ 3000-$ 5000 later and they have built a 'tough box'....

Why if you were getting a flat battery would a normally open relay curcuit close on it own?

try google mate. found one at www.racepartsaustralia.com.au but its over $ 700

Probably your coil packs mate.

I agree that the factory unit would have undergone some deep RD from FORD. However, you must keep in mind that FORDS priorities are different to ours. We focus on extracting as much HP from these things, that's it. They have to deal with emissions, noise levels and reliability from the stock items they are using. So your right in saying that the FORD unit would have been designed extremely well, however, it doesn't mean that they were designed with the intention of flowing 600+ HP through it. This is where joe bloe steps in.....

They're stubborn to get off. The shoes sometimes catch. Just keep at it with the hammerometer.

I took the Turbo back to Precision and John assured me that they do not seal airtight. You are always going to get some leakage around them

The original machined surface is still there. It has probably at least 2mm of surface. What kind of gap did the feeler guages give you? I dont have any real boost ramping issues otherwise Jim @ Tunehouse would have realised on the dyno.

If you don't have anything try MR Sheen. It has silicon in it. Otherwise bunnings should have something just ask someone there.

Who has had a larger comp wheel fitted to the standard 3540? Was it the to4 wheel with just machining the front housing? How did this affect your power curves, did the turbo become more effient at the previous boost levels or is the turbo governed by the standard manifold and rear wheel.

There are some round seals that fit under the rocker cover that sealthe oil from entering the spark plugs. That is where your leak is coming from. They may not have replaced those seals if they took the rocker cover off because the ford vrs gasket kit does not include them.

Hey guys, I have had the larger flapper and wastegate ported on my exhuast housing. While I had it off again I thought id check the wastegate for leaks. How well is the flapper meant to seal against the housing? With the actuator on I used compressed air and blew it around the flap. I noticed some air was leaking back through to the housing?? Is the flap meant to have a real good air tight seal on the housing or is it normal to bleed a bit of air through?

I ended up placing the battery in the front guard. Took a few hours to make up the cradle for the battery. All up it cost me under $ 100.00 to do.

Well I think im convinced. I just ordered a Plazmaman Plenum. Thanks for the info guys.

oh they have like a sandwich plate on the filter to go to an engine cooler. thanks for that.

Mate, im confused. What engine oil cooler is on the block? Are you refering to the transmission cooler that runs throught the radiator? Sorry byt I haven't heard of what you're describing?

one plug is to control the butterfly and the other is for the throttle position sensor. need to plug it up mate.

I think that some of the prices these performance guys are charging are starting to get ridiculous. Battery relocation kits for like $ 600?? WTF. Some cable, a mounting block and a battery tray??? They have found a ripe market and are milking it hard!

Mate im in the same predicament as yourself. I went out and bought a battery box, mounting block for the engine bay, solder on lugs and 6mt worth of 2BS cable. This was all under $ 100.00 and will place the battery in the boot.