Redback

I know the previous owner well. He didn't fit valve springs to it just had it flash tuned. Prior to him it was owned by a business, doubt they would fit springs to a stocker for no reason. You are right on the money about the HDI cooler. Definately the best bang for buck and good for about 400rwkw!

The car had a custom flash (detonating it's head off) prior to this tune by a tuner who is not worth mentioning. Not one of our sponsors. The graph tells me the car is running about 13psi tappering back to about 12psi, however my guage inside the car says it's more like 14-15psi. It's only a cheap guage so it could be out by a pound or so. The car now pulls consistantly and smoothly. Breaks traction when the auto kicks down to second. The guys lifted the line pressure to the auto which has made cruising a little bit more aggresive in gear changes. But as I said to the guys at C&V, I prefer a hard changing box than no box. Firstly I want to install a nice cooloer for the trans. Then the valve springs because I think I have been very lucky to get this far, actuator and port the wastegate. Apart from the trans cooler the rest can all wait as I am extremely happy with the output I am getting. P.S I must add that I am extremely happy with the HDI Intercooler, power feels the same run after run! The stock intercooler after 2-3 runs felt like there was about a 15-20kw power drop. Thanks for your responses guys.

Hey Guys, After sorting some boost leaks the BA went on to making 313.6kw atw with no sign of valve float from the stock springs! Stock actuator and wastegate prevented it from going any higher. BA 2005 MKII 4sp Auto HDI Intercooler with cold side piping 3" High flow cat with removed centre muffler and rear muffler Bosch 558 injectors and Walbro GSS341 Fuel Pump K&N Panel filter with APS under headlight CAI Custom tune by C&V Performance

Hey, thanks for the heads up but as I said I only load it up a couple of times to test if it overboosts like most say. Car will be tuned next week. I am just putting the question out to see by how much has others cars overboosted either by fitting a cat or a full system and did it run higher boost all the time? It's just to put my curiosity to rest. Thanks for the info guys.

Just had a 3" high flow cat fitted to the stock system. I noticed on my custom 10psi tune that the majority of the time the ECU is still maintaining the boost. Some times under load I get about a 3-4psi overboost. I just load it it to test it as I'm going to get a full custom tune done again, but I just wanted to know is this the characteristics of overboost with a highflow cat or do they run a stupid amount of boost constantly once the cat is changed?

I reckon his mates are playing a prank on him without this poor guy knowing.lol....

Can't see how winding the engine over for 10sec can stuff anything up? Perhaps your starter or your battery if they are on their way out. It's a good way to load test your battery if anything. I am an Auto Electrician so I'm not just blowing smoke up ya. I'd definately give this a try first! Have you had your ecu scanned for any faults? Most times when a sensor is only intermitantly faulting it won't keep the ecu light on, however it will log an fault code in the ecu which needs to be scanned to be found. A quick run on a dyno will tell you if your A/F mixtures are correct. You can change the sensor yourself (not an over complicated job) with no effect to your tune. Hope this helps mate.

Thanks for your help guys. I will do the pump considering I can get them at a decent trade price. Better be safe than sorry. If you do a full exhaust system including a 4" dump for example, will this place to much load on the standard wastegate port, hence needing the wastegate upgrade? This is why I'm considering only changing the cat and the mid muffler. I am assuming that adding a full system at about 12-14psi will result in boost spikes that the standard gate can't support? BTW I will be happy with 280-290wkws!

Try resetting your TPS. Hold your foot flat to the ground and wind the engine for about 10 sec. Let go and then start the engine as per normal. Also as mentioned clean your throttle body out. Hope this helps..

Hey Luke, I'm only new to this forum but like yourself I had a similar problem. My BA however is custom flash tuned. Your k&n wont be flowing that much more air to throw out your Air/Fuel mixtures. If you're concerned put the stock air filter back in and try it. With my 4000-5000rpm stutter problem I found that the problem was in the wastegate solenoid which was causing the car to over boost. I lubed it up and the problem went away. The computer keeps this valve shut to build up boost and then opens it to allow the wastegate to stabilize your boost. If this valve is sticky or not responsive enough it will cause your boost to spike and mess up your A/F mixtures (lean backfire etc.). Also have your ecu scanned for any fault codes that may be logged with your auto. However like the other guys said it does sound like these things go through coil packs like new underwear. Good luck with it mate as it can be frustrating chasing these issues. Elias.

Hey Guys, I have been doing some reading on this website and it seems to be a wealth of info! I'm an auto electrician and have owned/modded a few turbos in the past. I have recently purchased an '05 BA MKII XR6T. It has a k&n with an F6 lower snorkel and a custom tune from Intune Motorsports running 9-10psi with a stock exhaust and cooler. The car makes 257rwkw at the moment. My question is this, if I place a high flow cat (please suggest make/size to use with stock dump pipe if possible), remove the centre muffler, use a wog cooler and larger injectors, stock pump (been told this will handle up to 300rwkw?) would the car be able to run 12-14psi and make another 30-40rwkw with a re-tune? Also what kind of psi or rwkw can/does a stock wastegate comfortably flow before it starts to spike. Thanks for your help in advance guys !!