astroinc

Found it, there is a crack in the 80mm rubber joiner hose under the top clamp, bubbled away when I put the soapy water on it. Going to ditch the crappy plastic BOV as well. Cheers

Hi All, I have a 2010 FG with a 290rwkw tune, just last week while accelerating I noticed the sound of rushing air coming from around the BOV area and a noticeable loss in power. Thinking this was a boost leak, I could not see any dislodged hoses. the rubber hose that connects the plastic pipe to the manifold looked ok too. I couldnt see any cracks or splits in the manifold hose that connects to the BOV either. Clamps look ok on the BOV look ok too. I am going to double check tonight with some soapy water on everything. The rushing air sounds very plasticy like when the BOV vents back into the intake. Is it possible for the BOV to get stuck open (venting)? Jace

Hi Everone, Just started noticing a shuddering noise while gently accelerating the FG Auto (136,000km 290rw tune and k&N only) and under light acceleration and disappears after the car has warmed up. It sounds like the stalling sound when you are in too high a gear and you need to shift down, but it sounds like its coming from the induction (kind of farting noise). I give it more gas and it kicks down a gear then disappears. I have no idea what it could be, any help would greatly be appreciated. Cheers

Thanks Guys, I have put it back to stock while I try some different fuel for a couple of weeks, then I will try the tune again to see if it was dodgy fuel. If its still there, I will book it into the tuner for a look. It also hasn't been boosting as hard as it normally does, could this be due to an exhaust leak before it reaches the turbo?

Hi , I was just wondering if anyone could tell me what I am hearing under load from the engine. I have had a custom tune in the FG auto for about 6 months now which I have been very happy with. Last week when I was driving home, I was going up a slight hill when I noticed what sounded like diesel chattering or the sound when you are driving a manual in too higher gear at about 1.5-2K rpm, just before the gears changed down, then disappeared when the higher revs and lower gear kicked in. I was able to replicate the sound by locking in a higher gear while going up hills. It seems to disappear on level cruising and slightly appears when the current gear is starting to be loaded before kicking down. It was also about 35 degrees when I first noticed it, but has been doing it in the mornings around 20 degrees The noise appears to come from the engine not the gear box. Does anyone know what this could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou for the help I might get my tuner to take a look at the tyre calibration as well.

It looks like the 235's will add 1% or 101km/h. I just need to see if its legal. Yeah just a mild 290rwkw tune.

The stock load is 93Y and the rating of the KU31 is 95. I am guessing if the replacement tyre load is the same or higher then it should be ok. I have heard there is a rolling diameter tolerance of 15%, is that correct? I am really curious if there is anyone who has substituted the 235's.

I apologise if this has been answered elsewhere, I cant seem to find anything. Can you replace the stock 245/40/18's with 235/40/18's. I was looking at the KU31's and its a difference of $75 per corner? Is there a different size that's more compatable with the stock 245/40/18? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

I had it back to the tuner on Friday to get it checked out and retuned, it seems to be all good now. I had a little more boost added down low, the o2 sensor deactivated and the spark cut on gear change removed as well. I think the problem was heat soak related with the warmer weather, I didn't realise what a difference it could make. It pulls like a freight train in the mornings when the ambient is 17 or so but noticealbly less power when it is 28 when I am heading home in the afternoon. After chatting with my tuner I am now looking to replace the crappy stock pipes and intercooler, injectors and a good bolt exhaust and cat. F6 Mark - Bruce Heinrich tuned - I am very happy with Bruce's work and service.

Hi Tobey, How do you tighten the stock clamps, or just ditch em and get some better ones? The Vacuum line is the one from the manifold to the BOV or is there another - sorry I am a newbie at this stuff.

Hoping somebody might be able to help. This is the story so far: FG Auto had its first custom tune 6 weeks ago nothing fancy just a K&N Filter and 290 kw tune. The results were awesome, nice smooth loud spool and able to break traction on even light throttle. All going really well. 2 weeks later the MIL on the dash was triggered. Not wanting to break anything I pulled over and flashed back to stock and called my tuner who advised it is likely to be the o2 sensor.So all good. When I tried flashing back to the tune the Xcal 3 failed to download and locked me out of the custom tune altogether. Tuner advised to flash back to stock then reload. I had a few voltage issues but managed to get it back to stock then back into the custom tune. Another 2 weeks went by and the MIL light came on, but this time I ignored it and it went away after a day. I also started to notice the spooling at low revs was less audible and the power was less impressive and I was no longer able to break traction even under WOT. I get a little bit of boost at the top end of the rev range or under load at 100km/h. It feels more like a NA engine and not much better in performance than the stock tune. The exhaust/ engine noise is also a bit louder. I have also noticed each time I park the car the fan comes on nearly every time now. Over the last 2 weeks I have changed my fuel to rule out a bad batch, I have checked the hoses that I could see and everything seems to be still attached, I would tighten the clamps but they have changed the clamp type from the BA and I can't work out how to tighten them. Any ideas on what it could be would be appreciated.

I tried mine a few days later and I was able to load back to stock, then tried loading the custom tune 30 minutes later and it worked. I think it could be a voltage thing I turned off everything I could even turning my phone off to stop bluetooth connecting (SCT talk about pulling fuses). When the load failed the first time, the bluetooth was trying to connect to my phone. I also heard you need to give the ECU time to adjust between flashes around 30 minutes. Whatever it is it seems common with units purchased in the last few months. I think I have a boost leak now only at the higher end of the psi range, just need to find it in the fg.

Same thing happened to me this week. Got an error1034 when I tried to reload my custom tune. I am going back to see Bruce on Monday to see if he can figure it out. Do you have to pull out the heater fuses etc?

Hi Everybody, Please Help!!! I have a FG 6 speed auto that has been custom tuned with the Xcal 3 about 2 weeks ago. The tune was great up until I flashed it back to stock for the first time, because the MIL indicator came up and I wasn't sure if something was going wrong (I have since found out this is the second o2 sensor) . It returned to stock OK. I tried to flash the custom tune back it came up with a lost connection error message. I think the code was 1016. I tried it again and it came up with "download failure detected and will not let me progress with the custom tune. I took it back to my tuner who suggested I try flashing it back to stock first, then retrying the custom tune. When I tried flashing back to stock, it seemed to go OK loading the engine to 100% then to the unlocking ECU stage, then it was at the "please wait" bit and came up with "download failure turn engine off". I tried the custom tune again but I still got the error message 1034 saying to revert the car to stock if it will not start. I checked the DTC's which came up with 0100 and 1000? I am not sure what these mean?? I cleared these on the advice of my tuner. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this or is it a bad xcal3? It is very disappointing after 2 weeks to not even get to use the Xcal 3 and be stuck in stock. At least the car is going!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!