ScatterBrain

I've lost the previous photo so here's another This is the underside view.

The o-ring that you speak of is more then likely the connector plug towards the rear on the right hand side off the box. I had one come it to work about 3 months ago with the same problem. You have to be very very careful when doing it, Any static or accidental short can fry the trans computer. ZF recommends using wire mesh gloves earthed to the car while working on the transmission connector.

This evening I dropped the rear cradle in preparation for me to disassemble my kazz diff to adjust it.

nelsonian101, Are you still having heat issues with your diff? You could all ways try Penrite SIN RG110, The only problem is its water soluble.

what have you done to prevent the toe from changing when you move the top bolt from one setting to another?

Factory 18's in gunmetal grey Rotor GForce 18x9 Gunmetal grey

Here's another http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp

This is what they look like.

Rear lower control arm and rear top control arms both have rose joints on the outer edges of them.

Factory settings starts pulling out timing @ 125°c, Limp mode @ 150°c I think.

What sort of racing had you planned to do? If it's anything to do with circuit racing and the car's not road registered, Don't bother with a 4L turbo. CAMS (Confederation of Australian Motor Sport) The governing body controlling motor sport in Australia will not allow a race car to be log booked If it calculated engine capacity exceeds 6000cc. Unfortunately a turbo multiplies the engines capacity by 1.7 which make the calculated capacity 6800cc. How ever if you supercharge it, The capacity is only multiplied by 1.5 making it 6000cc.

My mate has a Escort with a 1jz, It had 320hp atw and weighed 1060kg. He's now halfway through fitting a GTX3071r to it. Here's a video of it at Morgan Park, Just after he finished building it. Here him at Mt Cotton Hillclimb, The smoke's from the rear turbos' damaged oil seal.

What sway bars are you running? To fix your under steer you'll either have to soften the front or stiffen the rear.

If E85 has that much potential what would E100 be like? Granted it's even less readily available, But If it's only for track days would it be worth while?

265/35 r18

Unfortunately no, High pressure will always flow to low pressure areas

With the rubber strip removed air will actually flows in, not out. I did some aero test on my BF and the pressure under the bonnet was 0.25 in h2o @ 80kmh, On the outside of the rubber seal 0.75 in h2o @ 80kmh.

I would be more inclined to put paddle shifters on for an auto.

The flap that sticks down from the stone tray underneath cut the section out where it curves up on each side. It will allow air to flow in behind the wheel and will keep your brakes cool. The part to remove is circled in red below.

I just got some mesh from autobarn, This is the only pic I currently have of them.

Check your rear wheel bearings for free play.

Yeah I do alot of track work with my tweaked zf. Most times I use tiptronic, but it's also good in sports mode. In sports mode it'll change up at about 5000rpm and down change at about 2500rpm. I can't comment on the ABS performance because I run 265 semi's on the front and lock ups are very rare. You'd be better off just to get you tuner to stiffen up the shifts and use tiptronic, that way your in the gear you want and not what the computer thinks you want. Besides if the back steps out it easier to regain control in tiptronic mode than sports.

nice, very nice indeed.

Putting the trans cooler in the front left of the bumper bar. It just sucks when you hit things and it busts the cooler.

I have a BF and I run 18x9.5 +30 ( with 5mm spacer) and 265/35's on the front, So I don't see why you couldn't go bigger on a FG. I would think you could fit 18x10 +18 or +20 allround.