ScatterBrain

Managed to beak my previous PB by 1.23 sec at Lakeside today. Car: BF XR6t Circuit: Lakeside Time: 62.677 sec Power: 372kw Suspension: Tein Tyres: Hankook Brakes: PBR-M Weight: 1890kg with driver

I took a leaf from your book and refitted standard rear bump stops. It stopped a bit of under steer but it's only a temporary fix until I work out some new spring rates for the rear.

Managed to beat my PB of 60.92sec 7 times today, But unfortunately I didn't quite break the 60 sec mark. But 4th out of 50 isn't bad. Car: BF XR6t Circuit: Queensland Raceway (Sprint Circuit) Time: 60.8086 sec 60.7238 sec 60.4697 sec 60.4574 sec 60.4248 sec 60.2370 sec 60.1904 sec Power: 389kw Suspension: Tein Tyres: Hankook Z221 Brakes: PBR-M Weight: 1890kg with driver

Well to be fair Wednesday night it was a damp track and I got within 0.155sec of my PB, which is 65.08sec on the Clubman circuit. However on the Sprint circuit my current PB is 60.92sec which I'm hoping to beat next weekend.

Car: BF XR6t Circuit: Queensland Raceway (Clubman @ Night) Time: 65.2352 sec (Damp Condition) Power: 389kw Suspension: Tein Tyres: Hankook Z221 Brakes: PBR-M Weight: 1890kg with driver

It depends where the gate is plumbed into the housing, The further around the housing the worse it gets. I've seen a loss of 30kw on a car just from the gate position.

True, but the second spot your taking about wouldn't have a venturi effect because its the retaining clip for it. So I would think enlarging the jet hole would be more beneficial.

In the return line in the top of the swirl pot there's a ball valve that needs to be removed. Also the back return jet thing on the bottom of the pot need to be modified by in creasing the outlet hole size.

I've had mine well over 160°c and it's never gone into limp mode, So it must be pretty high.

I have previously done testing on my car and the pressure in front of the windscreen is 0.1228psi higher then that under the bonnet at 100kph. The only time removing the rubber strip is beneficial is if the under bonnet pressure exceeds that of the windscreens, Which generally only happens when the car is extremely low or it has a stone tray limiting flow out under the engine.

By "works it's magic" I mean it cools combustion temps, valves, piston crown and turbo as the water vaporizes. The water injection can save components if the engine runs lean. As with what happened to mine, The injector partly fail on the #5 cyl and it stated to run lean. I was racing at the time and didn't noticed any difference to the power, It wasn't until the next morning when it developed a miss above 14psi. I pulled the plugs to find the #5 earth electrode half gone. Even though the cylinder ran lean the water injection stopped it from pinging and keep things cool. If I didn't have water injection, I would have most probably have need new exhaust valves and may be a piston.

Mine runs a pump controller so the output varies according to boost. Water injection will still be beneficial even when running E85 because it works its magic after the combustion has take place. Also It keeps plugs, valves and pistons carbon free. It can also be a saving grace if the injectors or fuel pump start playing up and the engine leans out, Like I found out early this year.

Water 'only' injection doesn't have a great affect on lowering air intake temps, It does lower it a bit but it nothing in comparison to methanol. However it's real potential lies in it's excellent knock suppression and the ability to absorb massive amounts of heat during the combustion process. I think from memory my 350cc/min equates to 22Kw/min of cooling capability.

Spraying pre-turbo you need to make sure it is a very very fine mist. If the droplets are too big you risk pitting the compressor wheel. Provided you're just running water there's no need to get it retuned. Also what sort of pump are you running?

I run water injection on mine, But injected after the intercooler. It's mainly for knock prevention and to help cool combustion temps. currently I'm using a 350cc/min nozzle which equates to about 10% fuel/water ratio. I never had any over boost issues with mine though.

The scrap thickness is 30mm. Ones 30.76, the other is 30.52.

They're PBR-M rotors, They've gone through 4 sets of pads, about 20+ sprint days and about 20 hillclimbs.

I Investigated the knocking noise in my brakes, Found left front rotor cracked completely through the outer face.

Surly the intercooler wouldn't be the main cause of the overheating. I run the 800hp Rapidsystems cooler and this year I've done 16 track days without ever getting over 2/3 on the gauge. Do you still run the stone tray on the bumper?

Thanks for the reply, I thought that might be the case. Well I guess I'll have to see if I can get something custom made then.

Does anyone know if the B series V8's shared the same front stub axle's as the 6 cyl counterparts? The reason I ask is I do about 15 - 20 track days a year, during cornering I loose about 1.5° of camber from the stub axle flexing. The flex occurs just below the top ball joint where the stub axle's at it thinnest point. I was hoping that someone maybe able to verify if the v8's use a thicker stub axle? Regards Mitch

From those pictures it look like a it's a ball bearing cartridge.

looking through the oil drain can you see the turbine shaft or a bearing cage?

For how clean it looks and the dimple marks on the housings, I'd say it's not a garrett core.

No scrubbing at all with 340mm center to guard height. I don't have a picture of the clearance between the tyre and the top bolt but there's plenty of room there. Below is a picture of a 18x9.5 +30 rim with No spacer, there's about 3mm gap to the upright with no spacer.