ScatterBrain

So true, When it comes to tires you can't skimp on the quality. My last set cost me $2700 for four and I have just shy of 360kw, You can plant it and it just hooks up and goes.

Don't mean to ask the stupid questions but what was it that actually caused this? Too much oil pressure splitting the housing or the outer oil pump gear breaking?

Factory 18" XR sports wheels will not clear the PBR-M kit, Well not on the front anyway. They fit the rear fine though.

I've been using it for around 5,000kms so far, and the only problem I've had was when it was first put in. The diff shop that fitted it put the wrong grade oil in it to start with.

Hey Ben, Ive got a KAAZ 2-way in mine, Its brilliant and quiet. Also If you decide to go with a 2nd hand LSD, I've still got my old one for sale. It's done a bit over 50,000kms. Regards Mitch

I did a similar thing with an FG manifold.

With brake rotor size, I believe that 355mm rotors are about the biggest you can fit within an 18" rim. Also why go staggered? 18x9.5 +30 will fit all round.

My 1st tune cost me $600 for 4 hours on the dyno and about 2 hours at my place the night before adjusting the mixtures so I could drive it to the dyno. My 2nd tune was $300 for 4 hours.

Well It depends, If you want to do club racing you'll need a CAMS license but if you just plan on doing Track Attack days you'll need a AASA license. For club racing you need a fire extinguisher, Non-flammable neck to wrist to ankle clothing and a helmet that meets Australian Standards. Where as Track Attack, you only require the helmet and clothing. A roll cage Isn't required for either. The other thing I've fitted was a removable 4 point harness to keep me snug in the seat.

My name is Mitchell and I still do have the class record at Mt Cotton, but I've knocked it down to a 51.45 . Yes I did have a bit of problem with understeer at first, but that since has been corrected with more camber and better tyre pressures. Here's some footage from QR.

Nah It was the clubman circuit, It still full weight including seat covers. Here's a pic from the day.

Sorry but that's utter crap! I race my Falcon @ Mt cotton and It goes great and for the record I'm tied for first in outright points See Here. Also Ive had It out at QR and I admit I didn't get under a minute, BUT for being the first time I've ever raced a car 1:12.50 Is pretty good. Now that my camber and brake issues are fixed I recon I could get close to 1:05 min. As a side note there were only 3 car out of about 50 that went under 1 min that day, Ones was a race spec Porsche 911 (59.50), an Escort with a ls6 (59.39) and a Suzuki Esprit (58.82) . Here's The proof MGCCQ Ironman Pages 3-5 are the sprint results for QR. Porsche Escort Esprit With that said I'd say go for it.

The top is folded and pop riveted up underneath. Here's a pic of the old gauge holder bracket.

I made It out of some sheet alloy I had laying around.

My previous setup (Left>Right Trans oil temp, Engine oil temp and Boost) My current setup (Left>Right Trans oil temp, Engine oil temp and Boost)

Provided the diff ratios are the same, I believe the only difference between the BA and BF diff is the rear alloy covers. So it would just be a matter of swapping the covers over.

Anyone?

I will be fitting aftermarket turbo to my BF soon and I wish to make my own dump pipe. Now I've searched high and low to try and find where the best place would be to plumb the external wastegate outlet back into the main exhaust. Although I haven't come across any articles on it, From pictures I've seen I can deduce there seem to be 3 main designs. 1. Plumbed in at the start of the dump pipe, Just after the exhaust housing. 2. Plumbed in at the end of the dump pipe, before the main exhaust. 3. Plumbed in after the catalytic converter. I would think number 3 would be illegal due to emissions, but may have an advantage over the others due to the pressure drop across the cat. So does it make that much difference where it's plumbed in, Or are all the gasses flowing that quick it doesn't matter? Regards Mitch

yeah Its just a sheet of alloy, bent and trimmed to size.

This is what I have there. Left is trans oil temp, middle Engine oil temp and right is boost.

back bleeding uses a pressurized container of brake fluid to force the fluid through the bleeder and up to the master cylinder. This method is used when the system has been completely drained and the cups in the master cylinder aren't able to pump the fluid.

Ok. Well the other thing it could be is the master cylinder I suppose but I doubt it. When you were bleeding the system was it pumping out plenty of fluid coming out the bleeder? Also have you tried back bleeding it?

what was the spigot bearing like condition wise? also are you sure the clutch plate is in the right way? one other thing, have you tried bleeding the system?

I believe you hold the power button down for 10 sec, it will fix it. I think.

Ive got 18x9.5 on the front and they're a tight fit, with 19's I think you'll have to pump the front guards depending on tyre selection and ride height. What offset are the 19x9.5?