a2z
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Posts
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Everything posted by a2z
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Thought I would try and get a list of different oils/fluids and capacities for the various gear box's out there. I have drained mine to do a oil change while changing the clutch. I have a fg manual t6060. Whats the concensus on which oil/fluid is best for the t6060 and how much does it take. It may be a good idea to note all the box's in this thread. Is transmax z suitable for the fg tr6060?
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Thanks mate. I eventually removed it with a chisel. Brut force was the only way this was coming out. Grease pack or heat or pullers all fell short. But when you want something done you just have to get into it.
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Having issues! I'm needing to replace the spigot bearing and the factory needle bearing comes out but how do I remove the bush that surrounds the needle bearing casing? Please help as I dont want to get brutal.
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Crescent Motor Sport bud. They do some great work there.
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So balancer or centre bearing hey? Any examples of other manuals with this issue and what was the fix rather than just how do we keep the bolts from undoing.
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I noticed the bolts conbecting the tail shaft to the diff had a also lost their torque. Hmmmmm
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I'll Look 'em up... LOL
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Im in the market for a clutch also. I am entertained by reading this thread but am hoping for some good cosumer feed back on some other manufactures.
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I did mine on the stands. The stock system is heavy. so do be prepared for a bit of a struggle by yourself. I would suggest a dry fit first before any sealant and the gaskets it comes with are rubbish. just use a good qual exhaust sealant. Remember the s bend only goes in one way, otherwise it will hang down instead of tuck up nice and neat.
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any suggestions as to which clutch I should put in? I want something that can handle drags as this is not a daily driver I was thinking ceramic twin plate. Has anyone had any experience with extreme or with direct clutch or with NPC? Torque Clamp looks the goods but very pricey when including a csc.
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Yeah mate mine failed 4"mild steel dump. I changed it to stsinless. Chris just chsrged me the difference.
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My ute is more for play than work or a daily driver. And more than likely going to settle for around 400kw as my overall goal. So would you say as a daily driver just go organic and leave the cermic to the track? Or what if its for being driven like its stolen everytime I'm in it? What about drags? I was leaning towards the ceramic until you made me question myself ratter. Lol
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Upon close examination of the flywheel. It is Rat S*&t. I will be replacing clutch and all. Probably will dowl, weld and lock tight and ...... just so the F&%$ers don't come loose. Just trying to decide between and opt 4 or a twin plate ceramic Extreme clutch.
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Pulled the box out tonight. Bolts were just starting to losen. The back of the fly wheel is looking a little worse for wear and the bolt holes are definitely elongated. So a new flywheel it is.
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Any ideas on a good flywheel?
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Ive just finished moving house. My garage is a mess and tools every where. Yeah I know it not a big job removing a box but its the crawling under the car I hate. If money was no.option I'd just put another clutch and flywheel in because of the effort. But im trying to do only whats necessary to repair it until I need to change the clutch. Its now clear to me that loctite and plenty of torque on the bolts wont do the job. As it has come undone again. Im thinking I shoukd just change the flywheel for an alloy one. Then get it machined once I replace the clutch.
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Did you fabricate these yourself. The retainer looks like it sits in a machined groove in the bolt head.
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So my utes only got 23000km on it and only done 9k of those with 380rwkw. The fly wheel and clutch are still in great condition. Do you think I should wait on replacing the fly wheel and go with tabs until I need to replace the clutch and go a new fly wheel then? Where can I get some tabs from?
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What a fricken pain in arse. I dont need a new clutch yet and the gear box has to be pulled out again in as little as 4 months. Knowing my luck the clutch will have an epic fail as soon as I put the box back in. Any sugestions as to which is a better fly wheel?
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Yeah mate its manual. So basically because the holes in the fly wheel become destorted there will always be a play and no ammount of tourqe or or fitting procedure wouldl be a permanent fix?
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After removing the gearbox on my 2010 fg f6 at christmas and finding the six bolts half way out I thought I would just tighten them and all would be fine..... well for 4 months only. Yesterday I heard the same knocking noise again. Before just pulling out the gearbox I thought I'd ask around about a better fix. Has anyone had this problem before or knows a fix? Would a better loctite be available or more torque on the bolts or would helicoils be needed???? Any suggestions would be awesome.
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I shouldnt comment. But I will say I know where id throw the rotten pear.
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368rwkw. A little under $7k. Includes a 4"exforce exhaust, rapid cooler, 4" intake, battery swap, flapper mod to turbo and regulator, injectors.
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Not good mate. I hope you're on the road again soon.
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Rattle at idle or just when driving?
