samhouston

Great outcome!! - what happened to the Real Dyno tune?

The standard head gasket is completely fine for a LOT of horsepower, the only reason I would 'upgrade' that gasket from a standard Ford gasket would be to do fire rings, otherwise the only upgrade needed on the head would be the studs themselves. I feel like I have proven the standard gasket goes pretty well throwing 40 plus psi at it without any issues.

Unfortunately that was bound to happen...

Yeah the legality of it doesn’t bother me one bit, but you really want a radial tyre for the street so it has a bit of strength. I have run front runners and slicks for years as a full time combo. It’s the only thing that will hook up somewhat.

I’m all for a front runner, but I wouldn’t be driving on the road with a rag front on it lol.

Are you running those fronts on the street?

Hayden had a different sound, through the whole rev range. This other noise was only at certain revs.

So, I know this is old but I encountered this exact same noise this week. Installed a solid tensioner as I have had a couple of issues with the hydraulic units. Started it up and just had the horrible racket around 3000rpm. As mentioned in this thread, I could tune it up or down with the tensioner, and almost got rid of it by having the chain so tight that it would have worn everything else out in 5 minutes. Took the solid tensioner out and the noise went away. Pretty disappointed in the tensioner to be honest. I think @JETURBO is spot on with the analysis of how the tensioner works, and I also believe that the tensioner floats with the guide and takes up the slack that way. Just my 2c on it

I agree with going to see someone and having a chat to them. A lot of engine builders are very good salesmen as well. The flashiest shop doesn’t always do the best work!

Give Colin Lloyd at Headsense a call. Even better go and see him and run through some options with him. An old school engine builder who has all the runs on the board

With the PBR rear brakes which I assume you have that pretty much does you out of 15 inch rim. I would try get hold of some standard XR6T rear brakes and then you can fit a 15 inch wheel. I am running a 15x10 wheel with a 325 Mickey Thompson ET Street, but have done a lot of guard work to make it fit. My guards are probably around 2-3 inches each side wider than standard. I did run a 295 ET previously which required guard work also, but less of it.

I personally don’t see the sense in this, when you can change to a forward facing plenum for virtually the same cost

This is one of the most interesting build threads around. Keep it up mate, you are doing a great job.

Absolutely no reason why you cant make a big jump in performance for less than $5k. The FG intake is a neat setup, you don't necessarily need it but it is neater and works better. By the sounds of it that's the way you want to go so I would say do it! Always plenty of good parts for sale from people doing another round of upgrades so keep your eyes out on Facebook groups, etc.

You should see around 14-15 when idling and cruising, it will jump around a bit depending on load, etc. Under full boost you shouldn't see anymore than 12 really.