mitchg911

I know it doesn't help, but mine does the same. Bf Turbo, 60lb dekas, pipework etc.. plugs are bkr6e at 0.8mm gap. Mine misses at idle upto about 3k in neutral or park. Only slight.. but definately there..

im making 340-350rwkw with a 4" body 100cell cat and otherwise stock exhaust.. along with cooler and pipework etc. -mitch

thanks for the replies, ill have my brother make some calls. cheers mitch

thanks for that guys, ill send him rdp's details also.. rdp is still a fair hike though, anyone else? -mitch

hi, im after some advice from our brisbane members, my brother lives in mitchelton and has just picked up a neat bf xr6T. Unfortunately he has minimal mechanical knowledge and less tools. Im interested if anyone knows a reliable mechanic for typical service type work around the mitchelton area? Im in sydney so I cant be much help to him on a regualr basis, but if anyone knows someone reliable that is genuine and not a rip off could you please post up some contact details? I suggested elite automotive, but someone closer for some basic work would be great thanks in advance mitch

and just before I get any comments that silicone hose is on there better than it looks.. the end just wasnt cut square.

its not a very good pic

yep its a solid 3inch pipe upto where the corrugated pipe joins the plastic piece that meets the throttle body.. hence the double hose clamp. and yup under battery intake for the turbo Its all home made, but heavily inspired from te likes of rapid & process west. cheers mate.. that was the goal, get rid of the cross over and still keep it looking stock. since those photos ive blacked out the joiners and clamps to the cooler also, only thing that gives it away now is the induction noise -mitch

just have to get around to getting the NA style rocker cover garnish to finish it off.. -Mitch

I did mine like this. there is a steel pipe inside the corrugated section, and the bov resides inside the false airbox. as for the plastic section taking boost, mine has been putting up with 15lb since november with no issues so far. -mitch

When I bought mine from motospecs I wasnt given the option. I bought a steel pan (no drain plug), suitable bolts, gasket & filter. the filter is seperate to the pan I bought and as you stated the bolts are different. I fitted my own sump plug, with use of some parts I 'found' at work. I was unaware that there was 2 metal pans available. All up I got change from $260 iirc, that was trade price.. sorry I know that didnt really answer your question.. -mitch

anyone that stocks castrol oils will be able to order it.. I recently did some chasing for the same thing, only to have repco fail and order transmax "m". transmax z is expensive though.. expect to pay over $400 for 20L. -mitch

replacing the actuator is simply 2 nuts, a circlip and a hose clamp. you can buy an actuator for about $150 from gcg turbos. & of course you'll need a retune after. the problem is due to where the actuator is located. Its fairly difficult to get to and if your not equipt with quite a selection of limited access tools you will have to take the turbo off to change it. I changed mine with the turbo still on, had to remove all the nearby piping, heatshields and dump pipe. (makesure you set the actuator rod to the correct length when reinstalling. If $500-$850 is supply, fit and retune, its proably fairly reasonable. -mitch

what colour is the oil?? that should tell you straight away.. if its redish its trans. -mitch

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/ABPCAI-Package-t40623.html