zlaya

Hey guys, just saw this! Thanks, Joe, will be in touch!!

Oh lord, things you have to do for your car.... hahahaha Thanks mate!

Hey gents, I tried to get in touch with @Peppy_t92 both here and on his facebook page, but I think he may be too busy at the moment. Meanwhile, does anyone know anybody else who might have the needed gear to help us out? Much appreciated, Z.

JETURBO, thanks very much!! Really appreciate that! If you're keen on beer, PM me...

Beer is just a sweetener, so to speak. I do understand there's other costs involved! So, Ralph, you're the man for the job yourself, or were you also gonna point to @Peppy_t92 ??

Puffwagon, I was obviously trying to avoid a costly re-tune. No beer for you! So, anyone out there with Ford IDS/BOSCH Lt and Motorcraft service suite, who can help? Anyone know anyone?? There's beer involved!

Hey, Ralph, thanks for that. I am in Sydney, Olympic Park area. The car is still drivable, so I can take it to them. *** hahaha thought it was a place, rather than a device. LOL

Hey guys, I had to get a new ECU, due to the old one crapping out on me. Finally sourced one, but when I did, the Ford contractor who swapped it out for me, could not put my VIN number into it. Apparently, this is something that Ford does not allow any more. The reason this is the issue is because the car is tuned and the program is on an older version of a CAPA tuner, which is only unlocked for my VIN. Does anyone know any sorcery or black magic that would make my VIN stick in a different ECU?? Whoever comes back with a workable solution, in Sydney, has got a case of beer of their choosing shipped to them anywhere in Australia. Much appreciated, Z.

Dirty32 & 82CNT - I am familiar with Hiro's thread, and was gonna order stuff from him once I had worked out the size. Everyone is seemingly really happy with the service and quality of the goods. dule - I am pretty sure that is it, as I found a similar kit picture and specs on a few sites, and it looks almost exactly like what I have. The only confusing part is that my rotors don't seem to be slotted, or have worn past the slots (if such a thing is possible). 325 is probably the magic number, but I'll have to measure myself to avoid any subsequent confusion. XtRmn8 - I think it's option 1 as BFs were not around at the time of the upgrade, and I think the 322 was first introduced with them. Furthermore, I am being told the whole kit has been actually purchased from pbr and not lifted from an fpv or a BF (which, again, weren't around at the time of upgrade). xr6turbs - Not such a silly question at all (it seems to me) seeing that the calipers are the same. A few people have already said that it would not work, but perhaps someone with more knowledge can enlighten us regarding this issue. So, if it doesn't rain on Saturday, it's 'wheel off' and 'tape measure' time, and once I am certain of the diameter of the disk, I'll be talking to Hiro, to see what he has in stock. Now, a question pops up in my head as I am typing this, and, the mechanics around will have to excuse my lack of experience, but - Apart from the diameter size of the rotor, is there any other reason or dimension of any part of the kit which would prevent caliper A working with rotor B, whatever brand they might be??? So, what I am saying, I suppose, is that if my rotors turn out to be 325mm, can I get any 325mm rotor for a BA, or is there something else to watch out for? Thanks for your input chaps, I'll let you know how things go from here... Cheers, Z

C'mmon guys, help a brother out!

Cheers mate!

Red calippers front and back, and they say "pbr", not "fpv"... I think I'll go with the DBA 4000s, as soon as I can figure out the size! Sounds like all you guys are very happy with them. On that note, anyone else who can shed some light on the issue? I really don't have time to get under the car... Cheers!

Just to confuse the issue some more.. I was told the whole kit was an upgrade from the original, so I just assumed. Sounds like I'll be taking the damn wheel off after all! Cheers! P.S. Just out of curiosity then: What size are your rotors and do you have DBA 4000s on now, and if so, how are they performing?

Thanks mate. The calipers are not original, as the whole set is PBR (red two piston pbr calipers at the front and single red piston calipers at the back). I'll have a good look through all the topics to see if I can find the needed info. Meanwhile, if anyone has any exact specs for me, I would me much obliged! Cheers, Z

Mate, I would be more than happy with a pair of slotted DBAs at the front, but the questions is if they would fit me front PBR config? See, I am not even sure what size disks they actually are, and frankly cannot be stuffed getting the wheels off to measure. It would be great if someone could just confirm what size the PBR fronts are (purchased some time in 2004, I am assuming there would have been only one two pot aftermarket PBR upgrade setup at the time...), and if the DBA 4000s would fit the combo... Thanks again, Z.

Gents, My 2003 BA T which I purchased second hand last year has a set of PBR breaks which, I was told, were installed as an upgrade soon after first mods were done to the car. Now, the front rotors, after more than a 100K Kms, need replacing. So I am looking for some advice as to: 1. Where I can get a good price on a pair of PBR front rotors and what price range I am looking at, and 2. Would I be better off getting a pair of DBA4000s or something similar, providing they will fit the above configuration (would they???) Can anyone shed some light on this for me before I start spending money and making mistakes... Cheers! Z

Hi, Just an update... The base with the bit of glass that snapped off was glued back on using Araldite glue. Seems to be holding strong. A new windscreen is going to have to wait for a little while longer.. The interesting bit: New mirror purchased from Ford ($48) is a fraction smaller (any ideas anyone?), but has a much easier removal system, I.e. a screw!! Pics below:

Was confused about oil grades up until now! Thanks everyone, especially Lawsy! It all makes a lot of sense now. My mechanic used the Mobil1 5W-50 for the last service, and I noticed the petrol consumption go up some, and the car running a bit sluggish. Which was no surprise at all (and after reading all the 10 pages of this topic ) as the guy who I bought the car from (2003 BA T, with about 300rKw) used a 0W-30 for the last service. Hope not much damage was done with it. The car runs fine, so I'll cross my fingers there and hope he didn't use something silly like that the whole time. The car is being serviced as I am typing this, with the Mobil 1 (above mentioned), so I'll stick with that for about 5K, and then switch to either a 10W-40 or a 10W-50 of some kind. Thanks again guys, it was a long read, but well worth it! cheers, Zlaya

Mate, I think I do, but there's no damage on the outside of the windscreen that I remember. Might be worth having another look. Thanks for that!

To be honest with you mate, with such a crude system and poor materials, I was not surprised that it got stuck. But enough whinging about that. Gotta get this sorted now. Called O'Brien yesterday who quoted me just over $600. My gut feeling was that it's way too much, but having no experience with this before, I needed someone like yourself to set the record straight. I'll definitely do some shopping around today. I've got a local Novus rep in my area, so I'll give them a buzz in a few minutes. Thanks for the input! Z

Just managed to get the metal base removed from the housing (now that everything is "separated" from the windscreen and in my hand...). It took a pretty strong grip with some big wire-cutters to get the latchs bent enough so that the base would slip out. And then it took some beating with a hammer to get it moving. There was no way this was going aaaaanywhere whilst on the windscreen, so my question to Ford is - Why not just a couple of screws??? Why the heck would a mirror weighing next to nothing need such support?? And such a primitive mechanism... I have to say I am more than a little disappointed. This sort of stuff belongs in 1950s. Over it all... Z

You were spot on mate, not having anything to pull made it extremely hard. It came off in the end, but not without pulling the base, and a bit of glass with it too..... New windscreen, here we come!!! I doubt even the wizards from O'Brien can fix this crater... Will get them in to have a look tomorrow (unless you fellas would recommend someone else for the job??) An interesting bit of information: Now that I have the whole bit in my hand, it still is not budging. This baby wasn't going anywhere even with the right tools and expertise, which I obviously didn't have.. Don't you just hate when a possibly cheap job turns into a $600+ nightmare? I know I do... Fun times! regards, Z

What a stupid system, Ford. Because the mirror has snapped off, there is nothing to pull the bloody thing off. Both the screwdrivers are firmly in as far as they can go, wedged in, but the housing does not wanna budge. I might leave it for tomorrow, today is too hot, and I'm just getting pi55ed off here. thanks guys! Z

Thanks very much for the photos MaTTe, it's now very clear what needs to be done! I'll go have a hack now. Will let you know what happens... Cheers for the responses! Zlaya

Hi all, Due to excessive bass or exhaust vibrations, the interior rear view mirror in my BA XR6T has broken off at the very base. The (may I say) soft metal bit that connects the base of the mirror to the windscreen has snapped. So, what I am left with is a little connector piece still attached to the base, and for the life of me, I cannot work out how to "disconnect" it. There are two tiny holes at the top, that I assume play a part in this, but I am not sure what sort of a tool needs to be insterted into them for this to come apart. I would much prefer to do this "nicely" and without damaging anything, so if anyone has an idea or previous experience with this, could you please give me some hints, as I am at a loss... Much appreciated and thanking in advance! Zlaya