Ricky N

The nuts come loose because of the constant expansion and contraction of the studs, nuts, manifold and turbo caused by the huge temperature changes from cold to hot and back and forward and so on.......... The studs and nuts soften, stretch and move. You could try to source Ti squash nuts. Unlike normal squash nuts that lose their spring after a few times getting hot. Ti is less likely to soften with the temperature and will retain its spring better locking onto the studs. Make sure the studs are locked so they don’t come loose and you will still need to re-torque the nuts occasionally if the studs are stretching.

That is a Chinese turbo. The comp cover is a dead giveaway. The genuine Garrett journal bearing Turbo with the same wheels specs as a TO4Z is called a TO4R. Shop around you can buy those Chinese TO4R’s for around $400 locally. They are a bit of a lucky dip turbo. Some work great. Some fall apart real quick.

Nothing. That’s kind of what the Billet ETT turbos are. The problem is the rpm the GT Ball Bearing turbines and the BorgWarner ETT compressors work at. The ETT compressor wheels generally operate at much lower shaft speeds so can be easily mismatched if you are only looking at compressor efficiency not being conscious of the shaft speed they operate at.

LOL! They are combos I came up with while working there. They are ETT Borg comp wheels on Their Turbines and in their housings. I would like to have a play with a complete ETT BorgWarner turbo.

Just out of curiosity what turbo shop did you take it to that told you it was within tolerances?

I have had a play with a few Borgwarner ETT comp wheels and they are defiantly different in design then most other comp wheels. I still have a few of them sitting out at my old work. As a theoretical look at the compressor maps they have lower surge limit’s and are more efficient at higher pressure rations. They also have quite large turbines for the size of the compressor. They operate at much slower shaft speeds than the GT ball bearing stuff. This and the low surge limit is why they can have bigger turbines and not be supper laggy. Still I think a lot of the hype we have been hearing over the last 4 years is just that. Hype! I am a fan off the BorgWarner ETT turbos but they are not for every application. They are better suited to higher boost levels. For this they are great because they are very efficient at high pressure ratios. Where a GT3076R will start producing a lot of compressor heat at 25+psi, an ETT S200 will continue to produce efficient boost and make lots more power up to 40+psi. (In a nut shell, you can run more boost without detonation) For this I think they are great. You can have a smaller ETT turbo, run higher boost levels and make the same power as a larger conventional turbo restricted to lower boost levels. This gives you a much wider power curve (More useable power). It also means you may not have to rev your engine as hard. Revs kill engines. Not boost (As long as an engine is tuned well and not detonating) High boost will do far less damage than high revs. I am not buying into the hype that they spool quicker than other ball bearing turbos available. Boost for boost up to around 20psi give or take depending on the models being compared I believe the ball bearing options will boost faster. At high pressure ratios the most of the current BB turbos will still start to spool earlier but the BorgWarner ETT turbos will reach FULL boost faster due to them being more efficient at high pressure ratios. When reading the stuff on the net have a look at what boost levels they are running when comparing the turbos. I did see a very good back to back comparison recently of GT3076R vs ETT S200. Here's the link: Turbo shootout results: BW S256 vs GT3076R - Honda-Tech Basically the GT3076R spooled faster at lower boost levels. On the Turbo Falcon engines ask yourself how much boost you are going to run. If it is less than 20psi there is probably a Ball Bearing Turbo available that is better suited to your application. Ps: I'd love to convert a ETT BorgWarner turbo into a ball bearing turbo to see how it goes

Not sure we are on the same page? The adaptor plate I am talking about goes in-between the exhaust housing and the turbo core for this conversion. I may have it wrong but I think the adaptor you have is between the exhaust housing and the manifold?

Yeah sure but that wasn’t what the example was for. It was to show the turbo can and does work well in that housing. The 1.06 A/R GT35R housing is around the equivalent of an open .84 T04 Housing when used on a T04Z. If you are looking for comparable examples on Falcon’s see how the guys that are running T04Z’s with .84 housings are performing. Don’t forget to take into account that they are probably running a better exhaust manifold then the factory item. More to the point, what I am saying here is a complete T04Z turbo in the factory Ford exhaust housing is a better and less restrictive option than the T04Z compressor wheel high flow on the factory Ford turbo. This conversion is not limited to the T04Z either. A Turbonetics GT-K 650 or PT 6765 could be fitted by doing the same process.

I didn't look on their website but I know they sell them.

Your turbo is a Garrett GT3582R core with Ford housings.

LOL, Bloody Garrett likes to try and confuse us. In the early days they were called GT35R's. Then later they became GT3540R's. After that they became GT3582R's. All the same turbo just has had a few name changers over the years. Up until the FG the BA & BF had GT3582R cores with ford housings. The compressor cover is a .50 A/R T04E. The exhaust housing is almost identical to the Garrett but has Ford on it and is cast in cast iron. The Garrett is cast in NiResist. There is a slight change in the wastegate divider area as well. The Garrett comes all the way out with area for a flange to clamp against. The ford housing is slightly recessed. The FG F6s have the same turbo as above. The standard FG Turbo models have an odd ball turbo. It has the same bearing housing, Turbine, compressor cover and exhaust housing as above but has an old school T04B / T04S compressor wheel. It is from the same casting as the old 60-1 but is trimmed right down. Something that is even more odd is it appears to be the same trim and casting as used in the GT2540R / GT2876R. There are far better performance based turbo options/combinations available so I am not sure why Garrett and Ford have done this. All I can come up with is cost and trying to keep shaft speeds down for turbo longevity??? (The old T04S compressor wheel used in the FG turbo operates at slower shaft speeds) ????????????????????????????????????????????? The standard Garrett GT3582R has a .70 T04S compressor cover.

What was that banging noise when you were playing with it with your fingers? Was it in the back ground or was it happening when you pushed and pulled on the compressor wheel? By the sounds of it and the amount of play looks like it has collapsed bearings but I am not going to even try to give an exact diagnosis over the internet. Best get it into a turbo shop for a look.

Garrett BB turbos use angular contact ball bearings to take up thrust loads so they don't have thrust bearing/washer's like journal bearing T04 T03 turbos.

I have done something similar years ago on a 32GTR. Upgraded from a GT3582R to a Billet Z-P which is pretty much exactly the same as a T04Z except the Z-P has a cropped Turbine so flows slightly more. The T04Z/Z-P was put into the 1.06 A/R Garrett GT35R exhaust housing. The T04Z/Z-P on a very lightly modified RB26 made a bit over 500hp at all four wheels on 20 odd psi. The power is not huge but is respectable. More important was the power curve. Here is a dyno from AutoSalon: I have had the shaft on a cropped P trim turbine reground and put into a GT35R bearing housing with a T04Z compressor wheel so to be a total bolt on T04Z but the car has not been tuned yet so don't know how the turbo is going to cope when lent on. It has been daily driven for about a 10 months though and is still going strong so fingers crossed. Putting a T04Z core into the XR6 housings is going to be a much cheaper option than what I have done above.

Sorry I am not working on turbos at the moment. Here are some average prices to use as a guide. You will need to talk to individual turbo shops to get exact prices. Bearing housing to exhaust housing adaptor spacer plate $110.00 Exhaust housing machining/profiling $150.00 New T04Z $2200.00

The T04Z can be fitted in the factor position. An adaptor spacer plate with the correct stack height can be bought off the shelf from RotoMaster that allows the T04 bearing housing be bolted into the factory Ford or any GT30R or GT35R exhaust housing. The factory Ford exhaust housing will still need machining to match the profile of the T04Z’s P trim turbine. A machinist or turbo shop will need to do this precise machining. A new oil feed line will be required or if you already have a braided line a new fitting in the turbo will be required. New water lines and oil drain required. The T04Z has a 4” inlet and will move the front of the turbo about 20mm forward so a new air filter pipe is needed. The 1.06 A/R GT30R / GT35R exhaust housing is NOT a restriction on a T04Z as some would have you believe. This housing is similar size to a .84 T04 housing. In fact The 1.06 A/R GT30R / GT35R exhaust housing has a nicer volute area than the T04 housing that comes standard on the T04Z. This turbo conversion is a much better option than a T04Z compressor wheel high flow / GT3566R that many opt for. Most people will look and think all you have done is a .70 compressor upgrade. Any well equipped turbo shop can do this conversion. A handy machinist could do it as well. A machinist could make the adaptor plate as well but for the price it is easier to buy it off the self ready to go. RotoMaster: http://www.rotomaster.com.au/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx

Standard exhaust housing can be machined and a T04Z can fit in the factory position.

I don’t normally discourage people from having a crack at things but if you have no experience with turbos a ball bearing Garrett turbo is an expensive can of worms. You will need big set of circlip pliers to get the compressor ring off. Once the compressor wheel and turbine are off you will need to undo the little alan keys. Use an impact driver or they will probably round. You will need to custom make a slide hammer tool to get the bearing pack pin out. Even if you get this far and get the rest of the turbo apart. You cannot rebuild it on your own. Unlike a T04 or T03 that can be balanced as a rotating assembly then pulled apart and assembled on the index marks. Garrett ball bearing turbos can only be VSR balanced. Unfortunately no matter what, you are going to have to send it away if you want it rebuilt. Sorry, Cheers, Ricky.

I bought two Porsche VTG Turbos to satisfy my own curiosity. There is nothing super different inside compared to other Variable Vane turbos other than the material the parts are made from, the electronics that control them and the use of an Extendard Tip compressor wheel. I have also looked at and pulled apart Holset’s and Garrett’s versions. I have had a close look at an AreoCharger AEROCHARGER Turbocharger is the most advanced form of forced induction, giving you the edge over the competition. First to Boost, First to Win. . They are a bit different than your average turbo but are also very fragile. A bit too fragile. I modified a Garrett variable vain turbo to work with a normal wastegate actuator and fitted it to our daily driver 4x4 diesel. It took a bit of playing around but it works really well now with close to off idle boost and good power. The fuel economy is awesome. Picked up well over 100km per tank over the old turbo setup. If anyone is interested to see it I’ll take a photo.

If you bought the new turbo with a new exhaust housing you will still have your original turbo as a back up or to sell and get some money back. Something else I should of said is the water lines may fit. I don't know of the top of my head and I have not checked. If they have the same banjo size the water line will be able to be persuaded to fit. The standard oil drain can be modified to work and if you already have an ETM oil feed kit or similar you will only need to buy one fitting for the oil feed line. Total cost would be around $50.00 The standard BA/BF and FPV turbo is a GT3582R. Are you sure that pricing is still current? That’s very cheap. Kyle can't be making much money on that. Must be doing it for the love of it. After buying the kit you are still going to need new oil & water lines ($400), new dump pipe & wastegate dump pipe ($700 to $1000+), new intercooler pipe ($300 to $700) and new air filter pipe ($300 to $500ish). The standard manifold is rubbish though.

If you wanted to keep with the standard turbo location you could have a T04Z or Billet Z-P put into your existing exhaust housing or an externally wastegated 1.06 A/R GT35R exhaust housing. This would be similar to having a T04Z or Z-P with a .81 T04 exhaust housing but the turbo will in the standard location. The T04Z and Z-P both have bigger turbines than the standard turbo so over boosting would not as big as a problem as just putting the T04Z compressor wheel on the standard turbo. The cost would be: Cost of the turbo, Garrett T04Z $2250.00 , Billet Z-P $2250.00 Cost of the adaptor plate for the exhaust housing, Around $180.00 Cost of machining the exhaust housing, Around $180.00 Cost of new oil and water lines, ??? Cost of custom actuator bracket, Around $40.00 Cost of new wastegate can with adjustable rod or external wastegate mod. New can and rod around $140.00 , external gate mod ??? To get the turbo cheaper you could probably ask the supplier if they can swap the T04 exhaust housing with cash adjustment for a GT35R housing or if they could take some money off and keep the T04 exhaust housing that comes on the T04Z or Z-P as you don't need it. If you are going to stick with the internal wastegate I would definitely recommend doing the bigger wastegate flapper and porting mod.

Variable vein turbo technology has been around for quite a while. There are plenty of variable vein turbo’s in use from many manufactures. The biggest one I have is a Holset that is a around a 1200hp to 1400hp turbo. They do come bigger though. The variable vein turbo’s are used primarily on diesel engines. Pretty much every modern turbo diesel car uses a variable vein turbo. From the ZD30 Nissan patrol, Turbo diesel Astra’s, Turbo diesel VW’s through to the turbo diesel Mercedes. If it is a modern car and it is turbo diesel, it most likely has a variable vein turbo. Variable vein turbo’s are not used in petrol engine by the masses because of the high exhaust temp of a petrol engine. If the same materials where used in petrol engine as the Diesel variable vein turbo’s the turbo veins wood fail. So variable vane turbos for petrol applications need to be made from much more durable materials and require a precise electronic computer control. This makes them expensive and complicated for aftermarket use. In an aftermarket application ideally the turbo would have to be tuned just like your engine gets tuned. More expense and who would tune it? 99% tuners would have no idea what needs to be done. There have been a few variable vein turbo’s for petrol applications but they usually fail due to the high exhaust temps of the petrol engine. In the 80’s Carroll Shelby was involved with Dodge Daytona that they used a variable vein turbo. Reliability issues forced them to go back to a conventional style turbo. Then in the 90’s Corky Bell’s book Maximum Boost introduced us to the Aerodyne Aerocharger. The Aerodyne Aerocharger is a self oiling, self cooling, duel ball bearing turbo. (No oil lines or water lines neeed. It has its own oil reservoir.) It is a very different design from most bb turbo’s. Both ball bearings are in front of the compressor wheel. I have never used an Aerodyne Aerocharger but I have poked around inside a broken one. The Aerodyne Aerocharger uses very thin sheet metal for the vains so anything over around 10psi of boost causes the veins to fold over and the turbo fails. The Aerocharger’s are also very small mainly used for low boost motor bikes and snow mobiles. BorgWarner started using VTG (their version of variable vein) in the new twin turbo Porsche 911. The variable vein parts are made from very durable materials to cope with the high exhaust temps. The turbo’s are also completely computer controlled via little electric engines that moves the variable vanes. A few of years ago BorgWarner published a statement saying by 2013 BorgWarner VTG (variable vane turbos) will be common place in the whole automotive industry. Does this mean petrol engines as well? Mercedes have turbocharged a few of their new and coming models and I have read they are using 3K / BorgWarner turbos so it will be interesting to see if they are using the VTG turbos. Cheers, Ricky.