F1PERFORMANCE

I have an x cop car plastics are burnt in front of low beam - had standard globes in it when I got it at 68k

G&J diffs have a very good rep

+1 for the Kazz they can be a bit clunky when bedding in - for a street car they can be set up different as you can tune a kazz to your liking.

what build date are these cars?

try eastern wheel works (03) 9739 7796

Just guessing from what you have said it sounds like piston damage

balance your wheels - not many shops do it rite have seen people spend hundreds some times thousands and the wheel balance is out - I would have your wheels balanced by a shop that have a stud mount balancer not centre mount.

I would not use scat rods as I have seen many issues with small end alignment and to rebush the small end = buy the better rod straight up( was sent 3 different sets once and none of them were rite )+ and most scats dont even come with ARP 2000 rod blots - just my 2 cents though - it has to be balanced due to different rod and piston weight to std - check out atomic rebuild kits - rod and piston combo can have a huge affect on your balance cost,if you have to put heavy metal in the crank it can get very expensive

The 4l85E has a heap better torque rating than the 65 - some ls1 guys went for them - ring Aaron at DTM Tranmissions he knows what they will and wont do and has full man setups and trans bakes for them.

Project MU and Performace Frictions are by far the best pads around - in heavy cars ie nascar /v8 supercars either of these pads are pretty much all they use - have used both in a 400rwkw hsv track car nothing else would last longer than 30 laps.

[quote name='wayne2106' timestamp='1306057896' post='1108047'] should do a group buy for genuine BF o2 sensors...$270 RRP so anything cheaper than that would be a bonus.... [/quote] go to logicar they are ford units and half the price

Where do we enter Mark?

true 11 sec street car that's mad well done

nice numbers well done

my tip would be to put more preload on the pinion if it spins easy 9 out 10 times more preload will fix it.

Next time have your tyres 36 - 38 hot and you will have heaps better handling - as for your brakes with a car that ways 1800 odd kg with out 4 or 6 pot brakes and larger discs to get rid of heat you will always struggle- The best pads are Project Mu or performance Frictions nothing else I tried would last longer than 20 laps ( 4x5 Lap Sprints) at lap times of 1.22 around sandown - Sandown is very hard on brakes 2 bid stops and 2 or 3 small stops in between very hard to keep pads at good temp

I would not own a VE if you paid me and the 30k you need to get the thing to go like a very mild T no thanks - Ford please dont f--k up again

Hi if TB cleaning does not fix I would say you have a lean spot in the tune - you say that its worse when cold also hints to being lean as there is very high fuel demand when cold

This is only an organic clutch disc so it will have better friction material than std and the cover will have more clamp load - this clutch is the first step up from std so if you plan on drag racing the car with more power and grip I would look at a higher spec clutch.

Spot on appart from digital and analog ramp rate has has a big affect on the graph = slower ramp rates will show more detail and faster ramp rates will show straighter lines -This car was done in shoot 8 which lets the engine rev up at 15 km per second. Nothing to worry about just enjoy the power!!!

Your new mate Buf-phoon is a very smart guy - Tuff Car take care.

They are paid very well to go there - the joys of having oil

Aaron at DTM Automatics in Geelong builds ZF's - Aarons boxes are first class!!!!!

Was the main tunnel line bored as you are fitting street gurdle and studs - good to see its all go now!!!

Hi did you use 4 or 5" body - great result + great price