colossus

Hey mate - temp guage never goes above half way usually needle sits between "zero" and the half way mark.

No never had a check engine light. Actually car has always been flawless. One thing I did notice though is that when I tightened the exhaust manifold bolts on the weekend the cross brace that holds the exh. manifold to the dump pipe had come off all together (the bolt was gone) on the dump pipe side and this brace was almost touching the o2 sensor. I wonder if vibration through this brace was bumping the sensor and has stuffed it? I know its a bit of a long shot...

Hmmm more interesting info guys - if it helps car has 85,000kms. Hasn't been into limp mode at all and consumption I calculate through my log books (not the trip computer) so I know its accurate.

Thanks for your help guys anyway - spoke to a couple of tune shops and they recommended injectors and a custom tune to fix this issue. If this is the case I'm just going to put the stock cooler back on. Final question - given my obviously limited knowledge of how restrictive the factory tune is - is it OK to have a pod filter (its boxed with a CAI) without a custom tune (have one sitting around the garage from a previous car).

This makes sense - but if its using more fuel this would mean the ECU is compensating by running richer? unless my consumption problem is unrelated to this change.

Hmm I mean I knew I wouldn't be getting any sort of giant performance gain out of it without a tune but I thought for $50 why not? It might keep the charge cooler on those hot days...How can it affect engine longevity/fuel consumption?

Don't have any type of tune - car is stock bar the FMIC. Don't really want a tune - I am more than happy with the stock performance and so can't justify the $1000 or so on a tune. Only reason I put the FMIC on is that I picked it up for $50 off a mate (its just a monza).

Hi all, I have a BF2 XR6T - I keep a log book for tax purposes so I know exactly liters used/kms traveled ect. My fuel consumption has gone from a regular 13.5L/100 to 15.5L/100km and is climbing week by week (average speed of 39km/h and driving habits have not changed). Last tank I babied it around, not on boost at all and only got 15.5L/100 (I was getting 11 when babying at beginning of this year). Car is up to date with services, have performed solenoid maintenance and tightened exhaust manifold bolts to spec myself. These had no effect. Car is stock except about a month ago I installed a larger aftermarket FMIC. Could this be the cause? (I still have the stock cooler that I could swap over but its a bit*^&% of a job to be avoided if possible). Only other option I can think of is to buy two new O2 sensors ($120ish). What do you think next move should be?

Have a December build 2007 BFmk2 XR6T - ex cop car - it has (I think) the premium brake upgrade (as it has big front slotted rotors and everything is stamped "PBR"). Just had a Ford service, and everything in order but needed new rear pads - Ford wanted $275 for rear pads so I decided to do myself - everyone from autobarn to repco claimed all faclons from BA on use same rear pads so bought a set of Bendix CT (DB1376) Bendix website claims that XR's from april 05 on use DB1675 which they are definatly not (these are too big). The ones I got (DB1376) are for all regular Falcons from 02 onwards. Changed them last night and it is leaving a 10mm mark where the disc is not being swept. Here is a pic side by side. Top rear pad is the new DB1376 (supposedly all Falcons from 2002 onwards) Bottom pad is the old one already on. I circled in red how the top pad is scalloped out at the bottom. Whereas the factory pad is straight at the bottom which leads to the whole disk being swept. At the moment it is leaving a 10mm mark where the scallop is not touching the rotor. I have rung Ford and they have no idea what I'm on about - they claim I have a standard rear rotor - as it measures about 300mm. I have also looked at Ferodo brand and some other cheapy and they all look exactly like the Bendix.