Rollin

Hi all, I am selling my number plates, "41TER". They're both full size and in good condition. $600. Located Brisbane Southside but willing to post, along with all the necessary paperwork. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Double post fail.

Lol hell no. The car had been running fine for a couple of months. I was really disappointed - I'd read they were all fully sick and everything, and I think I paid just under $300 each for them. Boy did my bottom feel violated when they broke.

AU motors bolt up perfectly. You'll need a clutch, you have to make/modify a gearbox mount, and run the speedo off an ABS pulse ring with a jaycar speedo corrector. A guy on boosted stuck one into his ute years back: http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12037&p=319487&hilit=t56#p319487 Should be about the right spot in the thread if you want to take a look.

Did you know I happen to have a TR6060 conversion for sale atm.......? :D

Did you split it in the end?

Saw one of these puppies the other day (in bright yellow) with Tickford wings on the hatch where the hyundai badge goes.

Don't be silly, the workshop manuals are nowhere near as useful as mspaint!!!!

I had two optimas crap themselves instantly one time. Was running two smaller ones in paralell in the boot of my ED, drove home from the city no problems, parked at the night owl to grab some milk on the way home, went back to the car and it was completely dead - not even the central locking would work. Took them to an optima dealer and they said they'd test them and get back to me.....waited a week, rang them, they said they were waiting on an OK to replace them under warranty...waited another week, they said they'd been sent back to wherever they go for testing....waited another week and they'd "lost" them. I gave up and bought a sealed lead acid and never had another problem.

Technically hertz is just an on/off cycling of volts.... But yes, you'll need a multimeter to see if the computer is 'driving' the actuator correctly.

I've seen similar size things hanging underneath 747-400 wings... Also - is that a reground cam or just a stocker? Would have thought you'd be getting an enormous billet to make use of the turbo?

Pazzo you may have a stuffed box or maybe one of the derros that did your pre-delivery killed it? I have a friend who used to work for Mal Wood, he recons the TR6060 is less forgiving of missed shifts than the earlier boxes. IIRC the TR6060 has carbon synchros and the earlier boxes have brass? I put an N/A BF T56 in my ED years and years ago, used normal Dex III oil, punished the absolute crap out of it (drifting at QR at least once a month for a few years etc) and it was still as quiet and easy to shift when I blew the second motor up as it was when I first put it in.

Between the Territory butt plug and the FG tighter ring hole it really does appear ford was trying hard to keep the Turbos' power production back to a marketing friendly number...

Did you figure out what the problem was? Solenoid stuffed?

You can have similar issues in older cars when the battery terminals start getting a little dodgy and the earths on the body and block get a bit of corrosion in them. It's amazing how many issues can be fixed by ensuring all power and earth contacts are clean and tight.

What injectors went in? Might pay to take them out and have the flow checked. If one is blocked for whatever reason (might have been dropped, bit of packing plastic etc stuck in it) you'll have one cylinder running lean and it'll be more likely to ping - but the tailpipe AFRs might be fine.

Someone may have royally buggered up a gear change in the first 8000km and buggered the synchros in second gear. Hard to tell without driving the car and hearing the noise of course.

Wrxs aren't that quick in a straight line - at least ones in brisbane aren't - I've never had a problem drilling them in my car.

E-series ftmfw.

IBilateral have you bought anything for me too be jealous of yet?

I'd say it would be a waste of time and money, the frictional losses of all of the piping, compromised airflow out of the blower and into the motor etc. Water to air or cryo cooling is by far the most efficient method for a pd blower, as had been stated.

Sorry but I've got to jump in on the boss bashing. Physically massive motor (especially for the capacity) which manages to have not much torque down low and yet not much power up high. Dollar for dollar an ls will make more power, as much as we Ford lovers don't want to hear it. WAAAY back to the original post. I'd suggest ditching whatever you have and 'downgrading' to an early turbo (or aboss if you really must). Plod about in it until you can afford to get an FG turbo/miami/whatever. Unfortunately not everyone is lucky enough to be able to afford the car their heart is set on straight away :( I'd kill for an FG F6 or GT but it's just not going to happen... unlucky for me.

Legend has it that this went very fast last night....

Mate you're better off selling that t5 and putting a 6 speed in. At least you'll get some money for it. The only other option for a manual is an astro A5 gearset. Bit cheaper than a 6 speed and they still seem to be quite strong.