seduced

or a rattle-like noise like something is loose? Could be worn shock mount bushes. Common problem that annoys newcomers to the used xr market.

Penrite Full Synthetic 10w40. Works for me, never noticed any issues. Change every 7.5k. 85% of driving is just puttering around with the family in the car.

When Ford released the Territory, it proved that people wanted an SUV with space that didnt need off-road ability. They sold masses of them, and a large chunk of buyers were Falcon wagon types. As the Fairlane dies, so did the wagon and the Territory fills the void completely, hence the Turbo models FX6 etc. Expensive Daewoo would have done the same if they could have produced a decent SUV, but the Craptiva just doesn't compare to a Territory so the sportswagon had to be made to avoid losing customers. But lets face it, Falcon and Late model camira will be dead this decade, so whats it matter?

Whats better? Plastic or Fibreglass? Most aftermarket types seem to be fibreglass, I had read there are normally fitment issues with these? BLits dont seem to stock factory copies.

They have some ugly FG GT bars for BAs and nothing else.... Might stick to the BF XR plan. If anyone knows where to buy, please let me know.

At 100,000kms you can bet the stock shocks are fairly stuffed, diff bush, the shock tower bushes which rattle over small bumps (so annoying...), brakes could need doing, engine bay likely to be grubby and will need a good ol' drop of all fluids, replace plugs, filters etc just to be on the safe side. It has done 450-500km every week of its life. I'd go the lower kms one. Seriously though mate, why jump now? Why not wait til the one you want comes up? $30k on a car should be taken seriously, dont just buy one of whatever is available this week. I waited months before the right car came up.

Considered it, expensive though. Was planning on keeping the stock look, but those FPV bars are nice..... if I could find a mob who made high quality bars I might be interested. Any suggestions?

The xrT is making less boost than it should, and it feels less powerful than it used to. Under normal conditions, its usually 2-3psi under what it should be producing. Eg, on stock 6psi, it peaks at 4 and trails down to 3. On my 8psi it peaks at 6 and trails to 5. On 10psi, doesn't get past 8. Now it used to hit right on the money on all tunes all day everyday, so its not the tunes. Sometimes on stock tune its flat out making 3psi.... Obviously somethings up, after a good boost solenoid clean it improved somewhat, mainly the way it brings on boost. but the figures are still down. So I need to check for boost leaks, I figure the below is what I need to check, but please add what I have missed. Also, any ideas on what clamps to buy to replace them all? replace all hose clamps Inlet manifold bolts Exhaust manifold bolts Turbo bolts check hoses for cracks anything I am missing?

Did you tell him what you wanted when you went in? Or did you just say 'max power please'? Sometimes you need to be specific with yourself in terms of what you want, high numbers are great, but drivability is more important IMO. If you have a preference on how it delivers boost, then you need to make that clear so the tuner knows what you want. If you simply asked for more peak power, then he did what you wanted. To be honest though, 290 on stock BF injectors is nuts. Yes its do-able but you are on edge all the time. I'm nervous on my 251 @10psi with stock injectors. Its great fun, but I dont like it 90% of the time. my stock tune is actually more user friendly, just doesnt shove you in the back enough, so I run 8psi which is enough to get me into yet keep me out of trouble. Saves my driveline a little more too, it is the family car after-all... need to take care of it. Take it back, ask for a safer tune, less power but boosting early and harder. Replace the actuator if you must, but it shouldnt be too much of an issue on lower PSI. Forget the race tune, go for these: stock, economy, power and valet. Pay him to re-tune, negotiate a price since he has already done most of the work and drive happy. Best to talk with the guy now you've got some answers here, give him a chance to respond.

You are kidding yourself if you think you wont hard launch or give it the beans once its tuned. I'd start saving up if I were you.

I didn't see it. Then it was too late. The front of the XR dropped off a concrete ledge only a few inches high, if it wasnt for the concrete driveway on the underside coming up at a steep angle from the base of the ledge, the front bar would have been fine... but it slammed its chin into the concrete and I had no choice but to drag it off.... now the front lower face of my front bar has deep scratches all along it.... I now need a new one, but I cant seem to find anyone but Ford to supply a new BF XR bar? There are zillions of BA bars, and a handful of used BF ones (no thanks), but no new ones. Does anyone know where I can find one? Unpainted is just fine.

Great. Will clean the contacts and go from there. I noticed they are not that expensive on ebay etc. Might see if I can grab some iiluminated ones instead.... thanks for your reply/

Hi all, been a while since I've been here. Still got the xrT and still loving it. Have had no problems with the car at all except the drivers side windows switch cluster decided to start playing up a few week back. Both the left passenger windows will happily go down using the drivers switch but will not come back up. The only way to get them up is by using the passenger switches.... annoying. They both failed within days of each other.... yet to pull it apart and have a good look, thought I'd throw a quick message up here in case someone else has had it, might save me some time. Thoughts? I;m thinking it could be too much dash treament spray might have leaked in there... maybe..

No harm in checking someone elses advice. Wheels are back on the front now anyhow, the falken 452s from the rear felt horrible on the front. I've noticed that the falkens get worse and worse with age. Thanks for the replys anhow. One good thing to note is that while a wheel alignment was being performed, they noted the rear suspension pivot bushes were gone, can be replaceD for as little as 300 bucks, solves thje rattle over small bumps problem all these cars have. This is compared to fords 2000 dollar quote as*pparently 'have to do the shocks as weel, all one unit'... I'm so glad the car is out of warranty..

After a nasty argument with a pothole, I have finally got my rims back after a month in the repairer. One of the tyres busted the sidewall on the pothole, it wasn't that old - about 5,000km. I asked for that one to be replaced. Now, my question is, I decided to rotate my wheels front to back, which means the new tyre and its 5,000km old twin from the front are now on the back. So one has about 2-3mm more tread than the other. I heard someone talking about how this will cause the LSD diff to wear as one wheel is spinning slightly quicker than the other all the time. Sounds a bit questionable, but somewhat plausible also. Anyone here know whether this is a bad thing? If so, I'll just swap them back to the fronts, but am hoping to get a little more wear out of the ones that were originally on the back..