turtl3tim

well the rolling diameter of 20's and 19's is the same, but just for sh*ts n gigs I put some stockies back on, took it in and had the tune swapped. WELL surprise, surprise...the problem isnt fixed at all, my uncle works with a guy whos best mate is head of service at park ford, if I dont get anything out of range ford next week ill be going there, I went for a drive with the foreman today and he said that he got lost in translation with the previous guy I was dealing with...he can see that there is a problem now **facepalm**

I picked my car up today, it isnt fixed as such. they said that they put some standard wheels and tyres on and the problem disappeared. this is absolute crap. the rolling diameter is exactly the same for 19's and 20's with the correct rubber which I have. and they had it tuned for 19's. yet putting 17's back on fixes it. I argued this point and they said that I can come back and at my expense theyll put the standards back on and take me for a drive...im goin to get some stockies off a mate tonight and then take it to them and have it tuned as they said (they will tune for free as its not time consuming) and see if the problem is actually fixed (which it wont be). apart from that they said the trans fluid is good and so is the level. has anyone else had problems with 245/30/20's?

tab, what do you mean by sealed? I havnt done any mods to the car performance wise at all, and when I bought the car from range ford it was still under new car warranty as they told me, and luckily it still is until early next year. I 'personally' dont think its the converter, but it could well just be that. I completely agree with the trans flush and filter change, whether it needs it or not. I know its a long shot but if you think about it, whenever your doing between 70kmh and 100kmh, if you put your foot down, 3rd gear is what it kicks back to. maybe the packs have had a hard life and are failing? being ex pursuit.

sorry tab, I was in a bit of a rush and couldnt really be bothered writing a whole paragraph like I was sitting a tee english exam hahaha. 'all im asking you to do, is to go for a 5 minute drive'. I havnt owned the car since new, ive only had it for 10,000kms and its been doing this since ive had it. its an ex pursuit vehicle and that's why im concerned. im aware that the two 'ends' of a driveline will never spin at the same speed unless the lockup is active, but the problem is that it only 'slips' at 2000rpm and in 3rd gear, and I dont think the lockup should be trying to engage in 3rd gear under acceleration, or should it???. and the fact that I can be doing 80km/h at 3000rpm in 6th gear doesnt strike me as 'normal' since I should technically be doing twice that speed. and I asked the guys to check the fluid and see what it looked like but I havnt heard anything back yet. and since the zf supposedly doesnt require an oil or filter change until 100,000km or 160,000kms I have a feeling that theyre going to charge me for it.

or u could always fit an anti static strip to your car??????? but they do look a bit tacky

4th time in at ford and still no luck...ne1 up for a drive in their car???? im just tryna find out if every1s trans is doin wot mine does, all im asking u 2 do is 2 go 4 a 5 min drive in tiptronic. basically it feels like 3rd gear is slipping. if u drive it nicely (as if u were on a sunday cruise, not dragging or driving like my nan) take off from somewhere in 2nd and change into 3rd at 2000rpm(problem only occurs around this rev range), hold your foot in exactly the same position and c if the revs pick up unusually and then drop by about 300rmp and start to pick up normally again, also if your slowing down for a corner and the car has gone into 3rd by itself, as u apply the accelerator again it should do the same thing. and if u wana b extra helpful lol, if it does feel as if its slipping, when it does, plant your foot and go through the gears 4-5-6. I have done this in my car and it sat at 3000rpm in each gear and very gradually built up its speed. any help would be MUCH appreciated fellas, I would do it with the dealers but they have no 6spd auto t's in there yard to cross reference with:(. hopefully your cars wont be doing what mine does. its only done 73xxx. good thing its under warranty, but its with the ford guys and they cant figure it out

imo lsd's will always be beta, they dont flog out your tyres like lockers/spools do as they are 'limited' slip, but they still give u the extra traction when its needed. if u dont like being all over the road when its wet then leave your t/c on rofl. yes they promote oversteer but only when they break traction=fun fun fun. but if u giv it a hard time, the clutches will wear out and ull b back to an open centre

the gt bonnets were around wayyyy b4 the monaros had a bonnet looking like that and ive seen newer Expensive Daewoo with our bulge in them to rofl. its different, its nice, I think id have to c it painted and in photos with the whole car shown b4 I could say I definately want to buy it though

well, sounds like im about to be up for the same thing, my trans slips in 3rd and if I put my foot down I can go right up to 6th, every gear it does the same thing, its sits at 2000rpm and gradually builds up speed. iv had it in ford 3 times in the last 5 days, all they did was reset the tyre peramiters and said it was fine after, ive been for a drive twice with the foreman now and he said all we can do is w8 2-3 weeks for the zf trans specialist to get back from holidays. thankfully its still under warranty and ive got service history since ive owned it, I think its ex pursuit. theres a few holes drilled in the engine bay and in the passengers side footwell. I feel for ya mate, but hopefully the guys at ford will help u out

I think im guna have to go with the led rings because they are complete and dont look....unfinished. the ones XR6IXT have look pretty good, I thought they would look funny with the gaps but u can hardly see them. where abouts did u get them from?

ok. so I had a look 2day. I did the old eyesight engineering trick with a measuring tape, the rings measure 140mm and 110mm. hope this is helpful to those of you who asked for them

mish, in regards to your question http://www.speedace.info/tyre_images/wheel...set_diagram.gif .this should answer it. basically the +xx is the distance in mm(xx) that the mount flange is located from the centre of the rim, so the higher the number, the further the wheel sits inside your guard, the lower the number, the further out it sits

ok this may sound silly, but couldnt you just use internal cir-clip pliers once the hose is off?

well I asked someone in the fpv club what he thought about it and all he said to me was "nup, wont fit, doesnt clear the diff" and lookd at me like I was a F-WIT....hes a bit of a douche so thanks 4 clearing that 1 up for me

yer I read through that 1 yesterday, that's not it though, I actually saw some on a red xr6 in the avatar. I prefer the solid halo ring to those nasty lookn leds further through that topic

c'mon ppls, I kno atleast 1 of u kno where to get them, I cant remember hu but some1 has a pik of them as their avatar

FKNMIOW .... u will understand it a bit beta if u watch the start of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vD54Ah4oaA

wilbaz, it depends as to whether u have a ute or sedan, apparently u cant fit a 3.5" in a ute coz it wont fit over the diff, but u can fit a 4" in a sedan. u could still get around this by using oval pipe if u have a ute.

hi guys, im chasing some halos or angel eyes or demon eyes (whichever you prefer) for the headlights and foglights on my xr. I put some in my explorer and I recon they looked mint. has anyone come across these and know where to get them or who makes them? any info would be great guys. thanx

woah u guys get rippd with that annual fee crap...I paid just under $400 for my personal plates for life...that's for 6 digits and ive changed the colour a few times...$80 each time. that's in W.A oh and no offence guys but seriously, why put the make or model of your car in your plates...cars have badges for a reason and its just blatantly obvious that your car is an FPVF6UTE (no offence NVT, just using as an example) and any car enthusiast would know this...and those who arent car enthusiasts more than likely dont care lol. I laught at people who do this...maybe their plate should be 'CPTOBVS' (captain obvious)

not too sure, if u go to your king springs dealer they should be able to tell u, and if you dont like the heights they come at u could always have urs reset to your own custom height

hmm that is wierd, but with the whole car basically being electronically controlled, one thing seems to lead to another these days. my ford explorer did the same thing as what u described...but it was out of oil due to the '*beep*' that serviced it and cross threaded the drain plug which allowed the oil to drip out. still cant believe than an oxy sensor did that. mind you my mate put led's in his car and that stopped cruise, traction and abs from working haha

put the old rims n tyres back on and see if the problems still there, the abs light coming on is very wierd. as mick said, check the offset, jack the front end up and see it the wheels are spinning freely and give them a shake to check the bearing, check power steering and brake fluid lol, look for signs of rubbing everywhere because when the cars jacked up the wheel moves outwards and may not rub anymore, check the inner wall of the tyre and the inside face of the rim incase its been rubbing on the caliper, apart from that its got me stumped to, unless the rubbing noise is cheap tyres and theres actually a problem with your steering rack/pump

ill leave my handbrake off next time I park her up and c if that makes a difference, but im pretty sure its definately something in the front end, if it was excessive clearence in the cv it would be doing it more than once a day wouldnt it? because the cv would always be moving around and the clearance would let it clunk all the time? and its not the diff unloading because its not until im half way down the driveway and the cars been in motion. I thought it would more than likely be the suspension because the angle of my driveway would put an amount of pressure on whatever has come loose in one direction, and that settles overnight, and then in the morning when I apply the brakes on the downslope in the opposite direction it would cause it to clunk back into place...if that makes any sense haha. but if the handbrake is ruled out ill jack her up at work and have a look around. the first time it happened it felt like the drivers side front wheel had hit a patch of loose bluemetal and locked up for a split second and made a clunk noise