boostin4ltr

Any ideas where I can get my springs compressed in Perth ??

I kno that behind the steering wheel eg where the trac control and fuel buttons are you cant mount them there . if you reach under your footwell on the drivers side u can put your hand right up there

I went to BPT in wangara .. maybe I just didnt understand what he was saying because it would seem stupid if you couldnt retune it without buying a new bullet . they seemed fairly trustworthy ..

Hey all Just spoke to the people that I think I trust my car with .. pretty much just said to them I want nothing too much more than 300 rwkw . on lowest boost possible .. He only tunes and works on fords so he told me that I wouldnt necessarily need to due the intercooler side due to the fact I wouldnt be doing back to back power runs and heatsoak wouldnt be a problem if I was just giving it a quick squirt. So he recommended Fuel pump, injectors, full manta twin 2.5" exhaust, actuator, thermostat and a tune. he said this would see me over 300 with the current typhoon intake .. but the questions is he gave me the option to get the sniper box or a capa box obviously ill save probs around 500 with the sniper box but when I have to retune ill need to buy another bullet. he sorta upsold the capa box seeing as I can have 3 different tunes and can always just load a new tune once u have it.. but im not really interested in different tunes the best control of power is the right foot and if I do wana giv it a squirt I dont want to have to change tunes nd sh*t .. it always runs on 98 anyway so for me I dont see the advantage of that .. can anyone settle this debate im having with myself .. there personal experience etc

yeh unfortunatly its a ba mk11 when I was looking at cars I didnt realise there was any difference so unfortunatly valve springs will most likely be an issue and I thought 300 would be a safe number due to the bottom end .. only reason I was saying a full intercooler set up was well correct me if im wrong, lower intake temps mean you need less boost to make to same power and im guessing high boost is a contributing factor to killing these motors ? mm 12psi would def feel alot different to 6 lol .. if I were to be smart about where I bought things from would I see tht sorta power out of 5 grand ? or would I need to spend more ?? and if anyone could recommend places in perth that will sort me out with good deals I would goto xft but its a little too far away I live north of the river cheers guys much appreciated

Hey tonight I realise I need some more power .. had some silly vy ss nearly beat me and I didnt really like it .. wrong gear at the wrong time usually id just fly past them .. but ohwell pretty much down to bad driving but still I want power in every gear. IM looking for around the 300RWKW mark nothing thts going to do any damage to my engine a conservative tune would be great .. under 300 is fine but not by much .. atm I have a herrod cat back, phoon intake, bmc panel, and that's it what do I need to do to reach 300 with low boost . im guessing, full intercooler kit, injectors, pump, actuator and port, valve springs and a tune .. if anyone has and cheap ways of achieveing this figure advice would be great

Their very easy to check and tighten ... its become a monthly thing for me to have to tighten them but I just stripped it all down and used locktight when I put it back together and they havnt come loose for a few months now so hopefully its all sweet

same problem .. if it feels like the cable is still connected this happend to me so when u pull the lever just knock the bonnet with your hand at the same time and it will release a new cable is like 39 dollars ive got one sitting there but havnt had any time to put it in ..

Hey .. I had similar issues with vibration from 85km onwards and I changed my rotors one day and realised that one of the calipers were loose . ever since then its been sweet as no vibration so dunno if maybe that will solve it for you

yer it has the clicking just before full lock both ways then occasionally it clunks really bad .. think I may jst have to do it .. thanks

hey update. ive sorta narrowed it down to being a knock in the rack vibrating through the steering or a knock in the coloum vibrating through the rack cant really pin point it any more.. wats the chances the steering rack is the problem and has anyone else had similar issues

nah he dusnt .. used to work in a shop but now hes a slacker on the rigs.. so if I were to take it to a shop how much labour would I be looking at ..

if I do need new ball joints dads a mechanic so whats the parts worth ?

hey all few issues .. as I come off kerbs with the wheel turned I get this massive clunk from the front end but I cant see anything obvious it does it in both directions and if im sitting still and move the steering left to right just before the end it clunks both ways.. I have also noticed that the steering wheel is loose and I recently had a wheel alignment to try and straighten up the steering wheel but that still dosnt sit straight when the wheels are straight . I was thinking maybe ball joints, and maybe the uni joint in the steering but not 100% and for the uni joint to go at 750000 is a tad weird. but any ideas would be much appreciated

what would be the best solution to keep these bolts in because the ones on the front have come loose again and I dont really want to keep having to do this every few months .. so many designflaws with these ...... Diffs,clutches,bolts randomly coming loose,its almost asif they realised the car had faults but they didnt want to fix any of em because they make too much money off the repairs that people need

cheers guys .. probs wont take the mysterious accident option .. unfortunatly my excess is over 4k . might go get a quote to fix the worst bits eg the door and the crack and just leave it at tht for now .. always liked the idea of a custom paint job though so may get quoted up for tht aswel ..

Hey all think ive bought a crashed car . pretty pissed atm.. options are to sell and get another T or get the paint fixed.. nothing structurally is damaged that I can see but ive had the car for 4 months now and a few little things are leading me to beilieve its had some work done on it. so im wondering if I post up the bit of the car which are damaged and describe what is wrong someone can give me a rough idea of how much each thing will cost to get done.. 1. bonnet has small dent pretty much right above overflow container- no paintwork damage. 2.Front bar sagging due to no stone tray and inner guard cut down so that 20inch rims wouldnt scrub so need a new one. 3. drivers door needs full sand back and respray( doushe bags have gloss coated over the road tar) 4. Driverside bodykit has been touched up so needs sanding and respray 5. driverside rear quaterpanel above the wheel has a crack in the filler so the paint has cracked needs filling and spray. 6. rear bumper marked by a trailer so needs respray 7. rear bottom bumper cracked in the corner (my fault came off a kerb to fast with the trailer and caught it) 8. passenger side has a stone chip in the door. 9.And that's it f*ckers :) any help would be much appreciated I just dont have the time to take it to a panel shop atm and I also dont want them ripping me off . I live in the joondalup area of perth and its a vixen 05 xr6

how do you add a car to the garage

Hey all just thought I would write up what happened to me. Driving home from work decided to take the coast road and avoid traffic, whilst checking out the usual chicks. pulled out of the roundabout in second and gave it a little, as I backed off I could hear my car pulling air back in, so I took off again only to find that I can hear air leaking from the turbo area. sortof sounded like a tractor tut tut tut tut tut tut. so I pulled over and got my mate to come down so he could push the throttle while I listened to see where it was coming from. I sorta had an idea that some bolts would be loose around the manifold or maybe a gasket was gone but I just wanted to be 100% before I continued to drive it . so figured out that it was that but had no tools on me so couldnt pinpoint a location due to that sh*tty heat cover.. So this morning I stripped it all down .. found a few things. firstly the intake pipe onto the turbo was loose as, came off when I took the top off. secondly 3 of the bolts holding the manifold to the block were loose, one of the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold were loose and two of the bolts which hold that split gasket on the hot side of the turbo were missing.. so air from the turbo was just coming through there.. I found that none of these bolts had any sort of sealant or locktite on them so no wonder they came out . so I greased them and torqued em all back up so hopefully this wont happen again ..

why dont you just strip the paint back and polish it up then .. add some bling ...

got quoted up on the exedy cushion button clutch . has anyone had one and how do they fair to the malwood option 3

boiling water dus the trick too then you just use some elbow grease and the sticky stuff comes off when its hot

hey all killed the clutch I think .. pulled away in the wet last night with my foot flat and didnt do a thing just left half my clutch on the floor and a massive cloud of smoke.. and if I load up the higher gears the car shudders into gear so I think its rooted .. what options do I have . looking at the malwood option 3 and the capa clutch.. I also called up MCE in wangara and they quoted me a organic clutch steel flywheel and a new slave cylinder for 2200 dont kno what you think of this price . what options do I have just to fix it for the mean time and what are my performance options if I decide to go all out and never have this problem again .. if I were to buy a malwood option 3 how much should I be looking at to have it installed locally in perth.. thanks