FAST-XR

I bet there is bugger all timing in that due to high inlet temps, youll gain a sh*tload of torque once after you upgrade!

no need to retune with a F6 cooler, has been tried and tested by alot of people, including myself. The F6 cooler is a bigger version of the standard cooler, and no more efficient when it comes to flow... it may reject a bit more heat, but your not going to notice any difference in power The Blow off is probably quieter as you have introduced more bigger pressure drop into the setup. A decent aftermarket cooler will reduce pressure drop and have better flow. hence why you need a re-tune...

How did your testing go?

whats the point of increasing the pipe size when all of the std pipe work after the UBP is still 2.25"? the one I used was 2.25", not 2.5" like process west... its not about volume, its about restrictions in diametre, and there are none in the standard pipe, cut one up and measure for yourself. it may Look bad from the outside, but its not a problem... internally its a smooth shape transition if you already have a cooler and are looking to get a tune, your better off throwing that cash at a high flow cat ( now that will help you make more power off less boost, compared to an UBP which is a marginal gain at best)

I also did this mod, waste of time.... the boost gauge still read 5psi after it was installed, not any noticable gains, didnt free up anything.... I actually cut open the standard UB pipe and measured the internal area. even though the shape changes its a smooth transition and the area is exactly the same as the inlets of the pipe.... so no its not a restriction. your better off putting your money towards a set of injectors to compliment your flash tune....

leave the bottom half of the air box on, just cut out the front face and the passenger side of the lower part of the air box, itll get all the air it needs....

have you also ported your wastegate? just noticed you have a nice flat 15psi boost curve

this is the air intake he is talking about

after noticing my car was spitting up its dip stick, I checked the breather line. The PCV looked ok, then I checked the check valve.... and found found this even if it looks ok, id look at changing it to a beefier design. I replaced mine with a bigger aftermarket PCV valve

ive marked the 2 parts in questions pcv is the one in the rocker cover? is the other a one way valve just in case the pcv fails?

just take off the heat shields and go over all of the bolts. I added spring washers to mine and they seem to be working ok so far... the only issue you will come up against is tightening the flange bolt next to the actuator.. does anyone have and advice on how to get to this bolt?

check out some of the kits available for some inspiration. I chopped up the cold side of my hybrid kit to create my hot side, so I already had most of the pipe and silicone....I just needed the 90deg bend and the reducer to make it work

I put a dual port full atmo BOV on mine the other day, and as others have said I also get wooosh and flutter sounds at the same time, there isnt much difference in the loudness of the wooosh on soft or hard sttings, just the duration of the noise... I have it set to the hardest setting, sounds like I have no blow off valve when on low boost (or on vacuum) fully sikk tututututututu, but when I give it full boost I get 3 or 4 loud flutters combined with a wooosh at the same time. Sounds similar to a stock vented BOV venting at full boost...

degreaser works fine, but can cause corrosion to aluminium so alot of people use kerosene to flush the cooler...

hahaha, no at the time I didnt have the cash for a mal wood kit. although going from 200 to 270rwkw kept me amused for a while, its now time to put that clutch in and cank it

awsome result, joe also tunes my cars, has been for years. Has my BF running 277rwkw @8.5psi, hopefully I can join the club after I get my clutch upgraded (after a year with this power, it still hasnt died!!!! ) although I did ask him for smoothly tuned power delivery to preserve it

I made my own hot side pipes, costed me about $150, very simple in order from turbo to cooler 2"-2.5" silicone reducer (onto turbo) $25 90 deg 2.5" alloy bend $20 90 deg 2.5" silone bend $40 45 deg 2.5" alloy bend $20 2.5" silicone joiner $10 180 deg 2.5" alloy bend $30 2.5" silicone joiner $10

its pretty hard to hook it up wrong as it has a trumpet that vents to atmo, the other end connects to the cold side pipe, and there is one vaccuum line port on top. its possible that the softest setting isnt soft enough and its not venting. open it up and see if the spring has extra shims under it to increase the spring rate and remove them. if it doesnt you may need to chop the spring to remove the extra tension... what psi range is the BOV rated for? if its too high then it wont vent

and heres a wiring diagram I found that might be helpful for people in the future Entertainment_Sys1.pdf

also the sub inputs from the icc are the yellow(+) and black(-) wires (next to the 2 blue wires) the signal was way too week even with 2 channels bridged on the amp, I then took the input from the wires driving the sub (coming out of factory amp) and it cranked hard with just one channel!

thanks guys. I spliced one RCA lead directly into the wires that power the sub, and plugged it straight into the amp. works perfectly!

from what I head read on here, the speakers have had the bass filtered out of them????? I have looked for wiring diagrams, but the links to them have been broken and cant be accessed... if you still have it can you please post it up? thanks

I just want to power one 12" sub here is a photo of the plug to the amp, which ones are the sub inputs from the icc? the 2 blue ones power the sub, so its not those...

Hi I have an amp with hi level inputs, can I take the wires straight from the sub and wire them into the new amp? will I have problems doing this as the signal is after the factory amp? I dont want to fry anything