FAST-XR

slightly old thread, but dynos readings vs mph is very inconsistant. in my BF2 manual with 295rwkw, street tryes, I did 12.9 @ 118mph, 2.2 60ft (bogged down) as a stocker with 205rwkw same dyno, street tyres, I did 13.4 @ 105mph, 2.0 60ft (almost perfect launch) 118mph seems high for 295rwkw, but dynos arnt gospel...

what was the difference in tourque? more early/mid range power?

mate I had a similar issue, 13 psi tapering to 9, could not make more than 270rwkw. Ported wastage 12psi acutator, problem solved. Your making very god power on relatively low boost, neither your cat or your exhaust is holding you back, if you were making 295rwkw @ 15psi then your cat could be the issue, but your not.

what you need to sort out is why your losing 4 PSI, id say its your wastgate... your making good power on 10PSI, you just need to hold boost at top end

how much boost are you pushing to achieve 295?

only 2 years old, hoping to revive it

yeah it looks like ill have to get a 10amp charger. I dont understand how it still has the cranking power to start the car on the 1st crank ervery time, but it cant sustain a current draw from a radio for a couple of mins?

will charging it using the 4.8 Amp charger be detremental to the battery? or will it just partially charge it?

Hi all, Having issues with my Oddysey PC925 battery. Still cranks over perfectly. But if I leave the car on accessories only with the car not running for more than 1minute, the battery goes flat and I cant start the car, otherwise it starts every time. Does this battery require charging? if so does it require a trickle charge or a ful charge? I have a supercheap charger, 12V 4800mA, is this suitable for the job? it says that its suitable for gel and deep cycle batteries, but not sure if it need to be fast charge or trickle. any advice would be appriciated thanks alot

topped up the fluid and the box feels like an old girlfriend again. all the tightness has gone, feels perfectly smoth. I didnt measure it, but I needed the volume of the reserviour filled once.... didnt have a chance to find the source of the leak.

just checked my clutch fluid.... empty! have not seen any fluid on the floor, none under the dash, will check bell housing and hose connections when I get home.

yeah I spent the little extra and got the braided bleed kit, have not checked the fluid yet, will give me something to do this weekend!

had issues getting into reverse this morning, took me at least 10 atempts to get it in. I just couldnt get it in the gate. also noticing that the pedal travel has deteriated and seams to be engaging just off the floor, I think its been gradual and only I noticed it now becuase of the issues. does this seem fluid and temp related? or mechanical issue?

in the last couple of weeks shifing has become very notchy and very hard to get into reverse. Currently running mal wood option3 plus, installed about 45,000 kms ago, car has done 100,000 kms my first point of call will be gearbox oil change, followed by clutch fluid change is castrol transmax z is still the prefered oil of choice these days? anything else I should take a look at while im at it? thanks

Wow, Didnt realise that the front compressor housing, oil and water lines were removed just to tighten one bolt. Surely this is not the case, must be an easier way. I assumed the turbo just hapenned to be off the car for some reason when that photo was taken, not necissarly taken off specifically to tighten the nut.

so when you access this nut on your car, what things are you removing?

I had a look at accessing the nut as per the above pic and it looks almost impossible with the water lines and oil lines in the way... Is it easier (if at all possible) to do it from underneath? or is coming in from the top the only way. I dont have a wobble nut, or a hinged ratchet, but I do have a uni-joint which can hopefully do the trick. thanks for the replies

Just wondering how people access the 4th turbo flange nut next to the actuator. It needs tightening but cant work out how to get to it properly, heat sheilds and intake off. Would love some advice on a good method and which tool to use. thanks

my advice from mal wood was; If your drag racing with an organic, dont slip it, just dump it and let it clamp. Of course its harder to launch a car that way, but you wont fry the clutch either... im running a malwood option 3+ with the braided blead lines. its been in the car about 2 years now, car has just over 300rwkw (nothing crazy), but have had no issues and its gets driven with spirit daily. clutch pedal feel is almost like std... personally, im more than happy with this clutch.

Yeah I think that tramping is a major factor, and I think when accelerating the passenger side diff bush get loaded up on top as well, im only assumeing this as it was clunking badly in forward gears, and not so much in reverse....

Here is a pic of the old superpro that come out that, and the new one I was just supplied with. The voids on the new one are alot different, it looks alot more solid. also, the bolts that went through the bushes were slightly bent, id recomend chaning these at the same time, the excessive movement from the sloppy bushes must put extra stress on these bolts...

Hi, I just had the same superpro bush fail, side diff mount on the passenger side. Bush was installed 12 months ago and car has travelled 10,000 kms. Bush was replaced under warranty with no hassles. I dont think installation was an issue. wholesale suspension seem to have a decent name on here the new bushes have different helical cut outs (much smaller, with less overlap) they look alot more solid. so possibly fulcrum had issues with these bushes and modified the design...

yes it does line up, I have made this change myself, the car feels MUCH better! I am running the XO1 version of the cooler (580 long core) the only thing you will need to do is use a 2.5"-3" reducer at the outlet of the cooler, as the rapid cooler has a 3" outlets... I chopped up the HDI cold side pipes and turned them into hot side pipes

no problems with tuner, saw a 30kw drop off at top end when we went from 14 to 15psi, so we then dropped it to 13psi to be safe... thanks for the replies, looks like we can confirm that valve springs can go soft and be limited to 15psi even in a bf mkII, and upgrading the exhaust will not help much... so springs will need to be done.

89k on the clock, I also thought they would be good for more than 300kw, but I suppose you win some you lose some! I am going to have to do the dump pipe, with or without upgrading the valve springs. Just wanted to know if it will give me an extra few pounds to play with, or if id be wasting my time... thanks ralph, I like it! haha, it is a bandaid solution, but if its a 3psi solution ill be happy!