Tocchi

well just bolted up the timing cover and sump looking sweet

that's cool, and what I wanted to know. I have to change my TB to cable anyways, so I might try to get myself one of those 80mm LS1/2 throttle bodies. top end is what I need too

with any of these speakers, can you use the stock amp? or would that under power them?

hehehe

not bad for a VE 10s will be soon :D

is a bigger throttle body more top end or low end power?

picked up the upgraded rear housing yesterday. its the FG rear housing, bigger flapper and wastegate hole. has a higher nickle content so its less prone to cracking cheers to Monsta Torque for the great price here's some food for thought. one of the Ford guys in perth, that cant be named here, with a BF Typhoon. 370rwkw on 19psi. ran a 10.97 first run (so got kicked out of drags) on MT street radials. he runs stock exhaust manifold, plus an exhaust, aftermarket exhaust manifold. the car is 1800kg + ill be running 23psi, so more than likely will crack over 400rwkw, since I have a VERY high flowing turbo manifold (6boost), top end specific intake manifold, and no exhaust for restriction. he ran 10s with 1800kg and 370rwkw I can run ?'s with 1000kg and possibly 400rwkw this shall be interesting

CIC (Competition Industrial Coating) in Kelmscott WA

fair enough. that's your fun, I enjoy that too but ill do it maybe one a few months or so.

I dont.. I just dont waste my money on pointless sh*t I dont smoke, dont do drugs, dont waste $300 at clubs on weekends etc. dont buy $400 designer sunglasses etc 10 days

getting the head, valves, pistons etc done on the built motor all up, the sump and cover cost $400

also did a few little things while I was doing oil pump gears. got a few parts ceramic coated (waiting to pick up), sump in the chrome coat timing cover in the chrome coat alternator in a blue candy. will be getting more done, but I just got these done due to the fact its easier to do these the first time. where as the rocker cover is easy to remove at a latter date. same with the turbo, water pump, and some other trick parts that will get done. or have trick stuff on them. anyways, as I said above, I got little things done while the the engine was "apart" that included removing the water pump, and removing its impeller so I can run a inline electric CWP (craig davies electric water pump). all I have to do is weld the 2 'holes' and it will be all ready to use. I also have to remove the thermostat, and block some of its lines/holes, but I can do that at a latter date and more importantly, the car will be going to Allfast this coming Monday for the driveline to be fitted :D will be bunking there with Matt's Turbo EF (which is getting a T400 fitted) and here is the bling, but more importantly, it has a role to play. the big players in International drag racing ceramic coat their sumps to keep the heat IN the oil. if you can have oil at temperature with a cold block, you make more HP

ok ok cheers david. I will have to check it out. appreciate the advice ok here's how to remove a Barra motor oil pump... pain in the ass compared to E-series. I had to remove: sump, timing cover, rocker cover (big bolts go through the timing cover), chain tensioners, harmonic balancer.. etc, list goes on. I used the billet oil pump gears, due to the stock ones failing at usually around 350rwkw. some places recommended the billet oil pump casing too, BUT ive been told the standard housing is better, due to the billet casing being more brittle. so a big bump or rev.. might crack them. (ill just make them thumbnails due to the fact theres 21 photos of this process, just click on the thumbnails and they will link you to a larger photo)

ahhh me FG clutch rattle. try with a bloody aftermarket clutch... ahhh me izuzu !!

had a decent drive then, feels like a front brakes issue. and its audible from 15m away from the car when it happens.. might get WA Suspensions just to check it out, to make sure nothing is bent

I think I might have a reason why its doing it. pads and rotors are less than 10,000km old but at the drifts, we tried to adjust my handbrake, the RHS rotor one, so im thinking we may have dislodged that a bit. cos the shudder feels like a handbrake jerk-up feeling.

"are you 16?" possibly due to this.

since last night, my brakes have been shuddering only when reversing. could this be a contamination issue? (I gave them a GOOD clean today) - still the issue remains or somethings bent? or a handbrake issue? it doesnt shudder when in a forwards gear brakes = 6pot fronts, 4 pots rear

I was giving him sh*t about this last night. he took Matt (esky)'s ute out last night, cos the FG was blocked in with the 80 series, the Evo7, the Escort, the Gallardo, the F430 and the courier ute. haha

I bet the 'sealing face' isnt quite square no joke. one of the Perth turbo e-series guys had this same issue with their Snort plenum, another had issues with the threads for the bolt holes, I had issues with the threads on the vacuum lines.

13 days left in the competition, so if you havent voted already, please vote (via pressing the 'like' button) (note: you have to become a fan of PSS for the 'like' button to appear) http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1928...1683&ref=mf

I cant recommend the Teins with EDFC enough. the car is on rails with it. eg: on the track, I can get BAD tank slap, and just with smooth steering I can get out of it due to good suspension. ive seen BA/F falcons with stock suspension spin out with less tank slap sure the ride is a tad firmer, but hey, if you are worried about ride quality, then you shouldnt be looking at modifying a falcon in the first place

stef, michelle was saying she's finally letting go of them.... saw her on Sat night... shes a mini buddha, and theres still 3 months to go :banghead:

shattered

its a cheap alternative to polishing it, never goes dull, never needs polishing. basically, part of having a drag car is getting sponsors, I want my car to look awesome from exterior and also engine bay. so the better it looks, the better chances I have at securing a sponsor