bluey1

Hey guys, trying to replace the drivers side mirror on a bf xr6. checked the workshop manual and it says to "Remove interior triangular trim panel to access rear of mirror assembly." Doesn't really mention how to do it though. Is the triangular panel part of the whole door panel or is there a way of removing it without having to remove the whole door panel? cheers.

hey gr8xr just out of interest what battery is the old one you're ripping out? I just replaced mine yesterday with a Century 57EF which is not the ultra hi performance one but even still it has 550 CCA whereas the one I ripped out was a 450CCA Mercury (stock battery? - what was yours?)

hey guys sorry to hijack this thread but didn't want to create a new post over a relatively small issue. 'downgraded' my globes today from HIDs back to halogens (crystal vision 4300K) after one of the ballasts gave way. turns out it had been loose for a while and rattled itself to death. I think the majority of the south eastern suburbs will rejoice at the news though as they were bloody bright and light gets scattered all over the place. my question is for all those who use the crystal visions, did the grey paint at the tip of the bulbs peel off for you guys too? I bought them off Ebay for 40 buks and within minutes of use the grey paint is flaking off. not a major problem as I don't think it'll affect the light but just a pain as I don't want grey flakes sitting around in my headlights but at the same time no pain is greater than having to take out the air box and battery again just to peel off some paint. easier just to vent my frustration at the seller with some negative feedback. while I'm at it. anyone know what brand the stock batteries are? replaced a mercury one today which, if its stock which I think it is, would mean its lasted over 5 years. the century one I replaced it with from super cheap lasted all of 5 minutes before the car wouldn't start and it failed the racv test coming up with shorted cells. plus one to super cheap. anyone know where I can get a mercury one as my google searches have been fruitless..

Thanks for the reply guys! Called Race Brakes the other day and I think im gona get a set of slotted dba 4000 (298mm for the non premium pack BF apparently) and their own RB24 pads, as ive yet to hear someone complain about the dbas and ive heard the RB24s are great and produce very little dust. Since everyone complains the Bendix and Ferrodo make even more dust than the stock pads and my stock pads cover my wheels only a few brakes after a wash I was a little hesitant . Plus these are aussie made and almost half the price! My only hesitation still is like I said, when I mentioned slotted rotors to my dealer he mentioned they cant machine them so when it comes time for a pad change according to him id have to change discs as well otherwise the new pads dont have a new surface to bond or bed or whatever you call it with. But since almost everyone here does this upgrade from what ive read im guessing theres no real mystery and there must be a way round it. Maybe if I use the exact same pads they have the same compounds etc and isnt a problem or something. I guess ill found out in time. If anyone has the slotted rotors and has done a pad change if you could shed some light id really appreciate it!

so its that time of the year again and my latest service revealed apparently there is not much right with the car. along with a 'noisy' idler pulley, cracked belt and a leaking high pressure power steering hose, it turns out my pads have about 500-1000k's left in them and the rotors are way too thin. so rather than let them charge me 500 buks for it I thought id do it myself and maybe do a bit of an upgrade. my first question is how often to discs need to be changed as the car only has 98,000 on it? I had a look around and it seems everyone uses rda or pbr discs. I had a look on ebay and there are ventilated disc and pad kits as cheap as 120. im guessing these would be the same size as stock though (is it 298mm? for bf). my next set of questions are myth-busting and physics related - the ventilation only helps for cooling yes? and the stock discs are solid? for any upgrade in braking performance I would have to either get larger discs or a stronger caliper? I guess in a nutshell what im after is your opinions, what would you guys do? will a set of say standard size rda rotors and pads make any difference to braking? and are larger rotors a lot more hassle to install, as im guessing youd also have to purchase an adapter to move the calipers or something? the car has the standard 17inch bf wheels like the bionic xr in the forum letterhead thing. also I was planning on installing it myself since you can find everything on the internet these days and I was under the impression that as long as I use the same disc size its a fairly straight forward swap. or am I mistaken? sorry for all the questions guys, any opinions would be appreciated.

I have a similar problem but mines NA. First happened fresh after a service. took it for a wash..turned it on..2 seconds later the revs dropped and whole car started shuddering like the engine was about to die so I just turned it off. Ever since, every 10th start or so, it doesnt start up properly. you turn the key and it sort of struggles for a bit, revs drop, car shakes and you can hear some popping in the exhaust. Been told by a guy at work he once had the same problem in this t and all it needed was some head/carbon cleaner which apparently you spray into the TB. Im gona give it a shot this week hopefully. But the whole thing where it only happens when you put it into D or R sounds like ANOTHER one of my problems . This is one is entirely my fault lol. Put in the custom DIY intake of the ford forums but the way it ended up it sits a bit high. So when you close the bonnet it touches it (but not the engine). Then when you put it into D the whole engine moves up (as it does in every auto car I believe due to the load and brakes being pressed) and just touches the intake and so it rattles against the engine and bonnet. As soon as I stop pressing the brakes and drive off it stops. Cant remember what the mods were you said you did but is there something you added in that's sticking up too high our of the engine bay? Then again your vibrations sound alot more violent if its shaking the whole car so it must be something big (ie the engine lol) so maybe it could be the mounts as people have said. Either way good luck wiht it!

sweet. cant believe after all these months my auto headlights are working again! thanks again Paradoxx!

AFF Technical Resources - Content im following that. guessing the security bits can be bought at supercheap? or do you have to buy them from ford? also I had a peep through the hole on the side of the steering column at the stalk and the wires all appeared to be fine and closely packed but I guess theres only one way to be certain. I still dont understand how it would cause the lights to go of while you indicate and then come back on again though. shouldnt it be fine until it rubs through the wire completely and it cuts and goes off permanently?

was just about to post asking if anyone knew which fuses I should look at cos im having the exact same problem when I saw this lol. first started last year with the auto headlights..every time I turned left or right lights would go and come back on when I finished or vice versa. now yesterday, pulling into the service station, indicated left and click all instrumentation lighting went off, for good this time. Been looking for an excuse to rip apart a part of the car, good fun..until I have to put it back together again. bit scared with the airbag though..when you put it back is there a special way you have to fold it/put it in again or something? dont know anything about them..

Anyone know how to remove/install new bulbs in the front map lights?

I had it done a year back. it wont make it drone or be too noisy during a trip. it just gives a bit more a burble off the line but cruising you will hardly notice a difference..