velocityxr6t

That's them. Won't find them on shelf at a fastner joint and if you get them ordered in it's a coin flip whether the shank (unthreaded section) is too long. Finding a full thread set, like factory, is impossible from anywhere but Ford in my experience.

No, I'm talking about the ones that mount the caliper to the bracket. Not the bracket to the spindle.

There's a dot in the middle ralphy. 1.5mm. Best part of $18 dollars each I according to the parts guy I spoke to today.

Cheers Phil. Legend. I did check carsales but they don't openly show them anymore. Didn't remember seeing them on Pickles until you mentioned it. Ralph, If they're m12x70x1.5 socket cap head full thread from a brembo setup I'll take em.

Gentlemen, I have a set of 6 pot brembos that I need some replacement mounting bolts for. After searching high and low it appears about the only place I can get them is from ford. And yeah, I need a vin number for bolts..... TLDR need a 6 pot factory car vin number to purchase replacement bolts.If anyone feels generous and would lend me there number I'd very much appreciate it.

Ha, don't worry I've been all over the car for something like that. First thing I checked was what I or someone else had left in the tray. Then the other easy/stupid one, the spare tyre being loose. Went over the rear suspension tightening every nut and checking all the bushes which were acceptable. Even pulled off the tow ball and tounge because if I pushed on the rear bar lightly, it'd rub and make noise. Finally, checked the most expensive bit, grabbed the rear wheel, turned it and the backlash seemed excessive. Hard to be certian without another one to compare it against or a dial indicator and the diff cover off.

So are you guy's getting the knock even on light acceleration? Every time I take of in the ute from a standstill, even at grandma pace, mine is knocking.

Phil, Empty your inbox please. You cannot be pm'd at the moment. Car across the pits yet?

Not too bad of a topic revival. I'm having an issue with my BA that sounds very similar to yours. I'm 99% convinced it's a VCT problem and was just wondering what you did to test the solenoids? Just apply power when removed to check actuation? If so, can I remove them without disturbing the timing chain? Now I think about it that last one is really the main question since the job becomes a lot bigger at that point. Just a quick background on my issue. The car has a small stumble during hot start, sort of flirts with stalling then pulls through. Cold start is fine. Idle is perfect hot or cold. Everything seems to work well but I had the car on the dyno today and at about 3000rpm it just stopped making power even though boost was steady and AFR's were where they needed to be. It was acutally impressive how flat the power "curve" was. Almost perfectly level. Seems to me that the VCT is doing exactly nothing but I'm open to other suggestions. Cheers guys.

Reason? Factory N/A cars are cheap as chips nowdays. Just get one of them. Or, a second hand ba turbo motor would be cheap too.

700kw at the treads is 938hp. Work that back to the engine would be in the range of 1100 to 1200hp. If e85 needs about 30% more flow to make the same power...... seems close to me.

Tried RDA because they're much cheaper then DBA rotors. I got what I paid for. Cheap and nasties that warp at the first sign of heat. Really no better then the factory gear.

Tried RDA because they're much cheaper then DBA rotors. I got what I paid for. Cheap and nasties that warp at the first sign of heat. Really no better then the factory gear.

Good luck mate. Let us know how you go.

14 volt at idle from the alternator is fine. I wouldn't be too worried about that. What happened in 70,00 km that would cause a stater motor to start failing? Possible but not likely. A battery only needs to go flat once and they can be buggered. Since you're saying you need to recharge it due to long periods of not driving, plus dropping below 9 volt at cranking, I think it's a simple case of a battery with a crook cell. If you're unsure or simply want to investigate furthur before dishing out your hard earned, get it load tested. Any auto elec can do it in 5 minutes so shouldn't cost much. But it is very possible to have a battery showing 12.9v under no load that keels over when a load is applied. If possible hooking up your charger to the car whenever you're parking it for more then a couple of days would be a good idea.

Or one of the umpteen gaskets made for a xr6 turbo could be used instead of guessing what might fit. It's a T3 flange, so any T3 gasket will probably work but no need to risk buying one marketed for a different car.

Yeah, our old BA's aren't worth much anymore. In most people's eyes the modifications will devalue it. No matter how low the km or how nicely you've treated it in reality, modded = thrashed to the masses.

F series still crack spot welds on the seat bases. Also, being leather, the side plastic trim can start rubbing causing a squeak.

A standard one will be fine for what you're talking about doing. Also, perhaps look at a walbro 460 as an intank pump.

No.

Sct and hp work for ba on falcons (or should I say ba or later pcm equipped cars) regardless of engine set up. If a standard ecu can run it a sct or hp tune can modify it.

"Accept the risk" because not enough money.... He has the surge tank already. I fitted mine in my garage. That's a zero dollar investment and I'm not going to lunch the engine the first time I forget to check my fuel level before I get into it.

If you have the surge tank already, why not use it?

The pcm in a bf is alot faster. Basicly it's a better computer then a ba one. This can be seen simply through loading times when you load in a tune. Ba takes a few minutes where as bf takes 30 seconds. Pretty sure that's what Ralph is talking about also. I'd check out Ninka's pinned BA to be BF'd thread in the driveline workshop as it covers retrofitting the pcm, along with many other bits and pieces to get a zf working as per factory in a BA.

Loctite all caliper mounting bolts. They can rattle loose. Anytime you work on brakes have loctite handy.