velocityxr6t

Yeah, I knew you knew. Just being a stickler and stiring the pot a little. Finding it funny having such a serious discusion about how to get slightly higher dyno readings which mean nothing once you pull the ugly stockers off and bolt the bling back on.

I can accept that, as it does take more torque (effort) to move the same weight the greater the distance from the force said weight sits. But, considering a larger rolling diameter, would the tiny amount of wheel speed loss be covered by the fact you travel slightly furthur ever rotation? Speed = distance over time, so if we're adding a bit of time but also adding a bit of distance...... The more you think about it the more situational it becomes. Also, just like to clarify that small wheels don't make more torque. All wheels make exactly zero torque. They may free up some torque that was consumed moving heavier wheels, giving a net gain and higher reading, but at no point is your engine making more torque.

It will accelerate quicker on lighter wheels. A larger diameter does not inherently mean a greater weight. I had 19 inch forged enkei's that were half the weight of the stock 17's

5-6 psi is correct for a b series. People have changed cat with no retune and been fine but it wil be running on the leaner side. Possibly only a sh*tty batch of fuel away from a detonation event. Run at your own risk.

Yes, slicks are no good for the dyno. No, your invos aren't slicks, soz. I run invos. Great tyre but certainly not a slick. Yes, they will be fine

255/30/20 on the front of a ba. A 35 series tyre will be too tall. The upper control arm will sit on it. 255 are load rated to 92. 245 aren't discounting some sh*tty chinese brands I wouldn't trust anyway.

If it's commanding correctly but only making gate pressure I'd be suss on the solenoid being stuck open. Bypass it and if it still runs 13.5 psi the solenoid ain't doing sh*t. I assume the solenoid should be closed when off? Try blowing through it to check for a leak. I wouldn't think a damaged gate diaphragm would cause less boost. It'd cause overboosting as now you have a leak so it takes more pressure to overcome the leak + spring pressure. If the spring has gone slack however.... But, IMO, making that close to the advertised 14psi gate pressure, I wouldn't immediately suspect the gate. Though it is possible it's unlikely to have failed just enough to run exactly gate pressure while more is commanded.

Depends on model. You running BA, BF or FG?

Only 1 parrot lost at a time rule in your town?

So it does seem the consensus is this is the best set-up for a quick street car. But why does everybody seem to want to be the fastest guy between a set of lights? That just leads to fines, loss of licence and even loss of the vehicle these days. How often are you actually using even this baby turbo to it's full potential on the street? Also, how much does a quick squirt against someone on the street mean? A myriad of things not to do with either car could determine a winner. I've been given the chopped sign when I didn't even realise I was in a "race" lol I understand it depends what you want to use the car for. But the only place you could really open up the car is a track. And the bigger turbo is king there. Unless you plan on running nothing but tight, low gear, technical circuit tracks. In which case you should probably sell the taxi and buy an Evo or similar. All my opinion obviously. I'd be interested to read others ideas on the questions I've posed.

I run ebc redstuff pads in mine. If you just want good street performance and low dust any reputable ceramic pad will do. Probably notice no difference until you get them really hot with repetitive hard stops.

Because the engine and gearbox aren't the issue?

Pics of boot setup?

Velocity is a BA MKII only colour. I'd say there isn't too many F6's that colour. Car looks good. Pic quality not so much.

+1 for pics

Sell and buy something that is less hassle? Sounds like a great car. But if you don't have the funds/time/effort to get it going it's just a good looking driveway ornament. Expensive too. Unless you put it on a trailer and track the thing.

So you'd need a complete standard fuel system including lines? Is the turbo in the factory position?

I think you mentioned something about a fuel system being the biggest issue? What is it running atm?

Nice colour. What's the major hold up with compliance?

Tell us Keif, we are actually interested. And yeah I have low post because I generally find what I wanted to know through a search. Only ask questions when I need to. Only answer when I'm certain as to not pass on bs (or try to at least). There's enough keyboard experts already imo. And generally don't talk much sh*t.

Personal attack rather then a denial. Conspiracy confirmed!

Conspiracy. Car isn't real.

Absent. Bought a complete kit that wasn't so complete. Paid a fair price too so wasn't impressed.

The car thinks a door is open? If it was this it'd do the three quick, hey idiot you pushed the button before closing the door so I'll alert everyone in the area to your shame beeps? Or if the sensor is in and out, does it then do as descirbed? IE. the bcm gets a initial signal of all doors closed, so locks without the three beeps of shame, then the signal becomes door open, the bcm then unlocks all doors as a default because you can't have doors opened and locked. Go around the car. Open each door one at a time and press in the door open/closed sensor (bad terminology I know) and see if the all effect the interior light equal. If they do, try again as it may be intermittent.

Thanks for looking around guys. So it seems the options are; 1. Buy the porsche bolts Phil has described above which seem to be identical to the ford items. Prices look to be slightly cheaper this way. But a much longer wait and more risk with the international shipping. 2. Call pro-bolt and see if they can source the bolts. Their on-line listings are for smaller, motocycle stuff but they may have the means to get them. Price and wait time unknown. 3. Convience Ford you have a fpv. Even my small town dealer can get them overnight. So shorter wait, if the part is wrong you can just turn down the purchase and get them to try again instead of working out returns with an overseas seller, which will never happen. About $10-20 dollars dearer though, which in my mind is cheap insurance. 4. Try the e-bay listings. The spacer kit bolts look good but it doesn't describe the shank length. Would need more chasing up because if that length is even slightly too long you've thrown your money away. The second one looks like the allen key drive would be a pain being so small. Likely to strip at the torque a m12 bolt would need. I don't think you could use a socket on it due to space limitations but not 100% certian off the top of the head. 40mm shank length would be touch and go. I'm going with option 3. Maybe the most expensive but the part is going to be correct first time, or Ford will front the cost of returning them and getting in the correct ones. I've been burned buying cheap "deals" off e-bay and international sellers. What arrives is not always what you paid for and it ends up being more exensive/painful screwing around with returns. Others may have more luck though. Pro-bolt may be a good choice too. Would require furthur investigation though. Though looking at the price of their advertised m8 stuff it would be no cheaper then from ford and you'd probably have postage costs too. Well, that's my take on it anyway. Each options has it's pros & cons so it'll really be up to the individual which avenue they'd like to take. All this for a f*%king set of bolts!!!! Lol