MaTTe

Good to hear you found the cause. For future referance though, the TPS is on the other side of the throttle body.. which means you really have to take the throttle body off to change the TPS due to the cheap sh*t bolts they supply and then put loctite on.

if you have a spare that matches the set, then swap it onto the car, and keep this one as a spare. If you don't have a spare that matches the set, it's time to buy a new tyre as you alread have yourself a spare.. Tempting fate is not worth the consequences. The tyre is still useable for a standard drive if/when you have troubles with another of your tyres.

if the TPS is on its way out, it will idle poorly, potentially die, sometimes die while revving. You should be able to restart the car and it will run fine, until it plays up again. This could be minutes, hours, or days later. Mine was dieing 4-5 times in one trip on some days, and perfectly fine on other days. It's not hard to fix, will cost about $150 for the TPS, or $300ish for ford to fix for you. Just mkae sure you use an electric screwdriver or drill to remove the bolts holding the TPS in, as they are EXTREMELY low tensile. I would pull out a spark plug first and have a look at them, they're probably on their way out, you'll be able to tell.. it'll have worn the ground down. But I'm pretty sure its a TPS you need

it sounds sort of like a TPS, but usually when you restart the car it is fine for a while..

hey mate, if the don't bolt straight up you'll be able to get adaptors. have a look at the ap racing website and see if you can get an specs on the bolt patterns

The bellhousing changed for the BAs, otherwise, they're the same from EA-AU The box bolts to the bellhousing in the same pattern - I think.. I may be wrong. But if you plan to put an Eseries T5 behing a Turbo, it'll probably last less time than the time it takes to put in.. The XR6T have a T5Z, where as EA-BA(NA6) all have slightly different versions of the T5 The problems you're having with the T5Z will only be amplified by having a T5 in there.

just take out the 4 torx bolts and swap seats over. If the new seats have side airbags or extra electronics, they wont be usable unless you get their BEM also But the seats still have the same anchor points, so there's no worries there

if you're tuning the car to run on higher octane fuel, you want to know that you can have a repeatable ratio, eg. you want all the old fuel out so that when you put the fuel in after having it tuned, the mixture will still be the same, therefor safe. I can't give you any figures on a typical increase, as it would depend alot on what parts you have and what sort of tune you end up with. The better fuel wont just give you the higher peak HP, it will improve the power delivery throughout the rev range. This may reduce your ability to launch the car, but will improve the acceleration all the way to peak. There are many different race fuels you can get, it depends how far you want to stretch your $.. Good luck

yeah mate Rapid's explination sounds spot on. It does sound like you're getting some voltage drop, but also a bad earthing. You really want to have the earth as close to the battery as possible. Just sand some paint off (get the metal nice and shiney) then bolt the earth to the body, do the same in the engine bay. I'm guessing you don't have the spade bits on each end, but ideally you want one in the engine bay and one in the boot for your new eathing bolts to go thru, and preferably file the face or hit it with a wire brush for extra security. You may find that the battery needs a higher CCA rating, but I'd doubt it unless you have installed a new battery with a lower rating than standard. It's a pretty quick and easy fix to sort out the earths, you can leave the wire that runs front to back in while you test it. I'd say you'll be taking the cable out though..

I won't be home for a few hours, but you can download the whole pdf from pdftown.com If you want it still driveable, you can get a grease gun and seperate the split so you can force grease into the CV

anything is possible, you can hijack the power supply at the engine bay fuse box and kill all electrics..

clean the terminals with a wire brush or a file. But it does sound like the battery is flat, or has dropped a cell. Most chargers are trickle chargers so it'll take atleast 12 hours to charge a car battery.. Jumper leads will tell the story pretty quickly..

it'd be worth pulling out one of your sparkplugs and having a look, the ground wears away as they're expected to last forever, but they end up increasing the gap as they wear. You'll be able to tell straight away if it's worn. But as dagabond said, the custom tune will make all the difference.

hey mate, a 9" is the best option, and being a ute/station wagon it is much easier than a sedan. any 'good' diff joint should be able to do this for you. call a few places and get quotes and ask alot of questions, you'll be able to tell their knowledge and experience after speaking to a few of them..

hey mate, yeah fair enough, the distance makes it a bit of a delay. I'd be calling head office and voicing my concerns.. you should get a fuel card or something out of this.. atleast $500.. a new car shouldn't have these problems.. maybe after 200,000kms but not at this point, and not after having the dash out once already.. good luck with the repairs and repocussions

unless you live somewhere that the water is likely to freeze overnight, you don't need 'coolant' 'coolant' contains glycol which is the worlds best antifreeze, this will not keep your car cool. redline water wetter is the best thing you can put into your cooling system. get the 15L goonbag of distilled water from coventrys (or get 2 to completely flush your cooling system) they cost about $5, water wetter is about $30 water wetter has all the rust and corrosion inhibitors that 'coolant' has and complies with all manufacturers standards.. If you live somewhere that the water is likely to freeze overnight (rare in oz) then by all means add some glycol, no more than 50% Drop the water out of your cooling system, refill with distilled water, get the car hot (until the fans come on) then drop the water out again. Repeat once or twice, then add water and water wetter. You'll notice the difference.

yeah it's not alot of bolts, the control arm, the control blade, and I don't know what they call the top arm, but that too, its pretty straight foreward, I'll send you the .pdf if you want.. I think there's a circlip you need to take out of the CV joint.. but it'll bump out with a hammer (softly softly) then take it to Allan get him to have a look. and no, oil wont pour out. the diff centre is sealed, the grease is just for the CV joint, and unless it is VERY hot it wont pour out.. Let me know if you want the .pdf.. I'll send it tomorro when I get home.

just talk fast and tell her in passing comment.. "I spent 2300 on this and this BUT (slow down) I bought you this, (smile and kiss)" anger and dissapointment in spending fades.. Or tell her and make sure you REALLY don't give a sh*t what her reaction is.. works for me.. they learn quick

the XT has lucas pads on it, they're good day to day pads, we use them in racing too. If you want soem performance pads look into the EBC Green Stuff pads, or bendix SRTs the race car doesn't liek the Bendix ultimates, they glaze too quick, only last a couple of races, barely a race meeting.. Queensland Race Brakes are supposed to be good, as are Ferodo Formulas.. it really depends what you want the car for, because the better the pads are, the quicker the rotors will wear, and therefor the quicker you'll be replacing the rotors and pads.. Call Imparts in osborne Park 9444 9761 (I think, it's on a thread in here somewhere.. or search whitepages.com for Hitech or imparts), they should give you a good price standard, you can say Matt Brown sent you, and they may give you a discount, depends who you speak to.

by 'ba' I meant bseries.. just goes to show that proof reading can help..

or if you ever want to work it out on the spot, HP x 0.746xxxxxxxxxx = KW

to get the cv joint out, the wheel and some of the IRS need to come off, to get the boot off and replace it, the cv joint needs to be seperated, and it can be inspected while its out. It's not hard work, you can do it yourself, but you may not notice an issue that Allan would pick up.. You could pull the whole CV out and take the axle to him and get him to check it out when you get a new boot for it.. you'd save money and get to pull your car apart. Depends what you want out of the experience. His pricing is VERY reasonable, especially when ou compare it to other places.. hey, I just noticed our wanneroo time.. you're going to have to work on that, we race HQs and have a bucket load of restrictions to work within with a 202 and single carb.. and we do 1:02s all day.. our record is in the 1:01s. you'd be better on the long track though, the speed up and down the hill is where you'd come into your own. Though a low 1:15:xx all day isn't bad for a 1970s 6cyl.. our record is 1:14:9xxx Bit of inspiration to work on your times..

I've got a motor and a mechanism if you need it, where are you located?

hey mate, it's a common problem with the ba's, most people opt for the DBA 4000s or 5000s you can get them in slotted or drilled and slotted. drilled are more likely to crack though. If it's under warranty you may as well milk it until you have to pay for them yourself.. but if you're getting sick of it try calling Imparts in osborne park 9444 9671, they always give me a good price

if you can hear the motor it's getting some power at the least.. check the relay as it is a likely problem. if not, to get to the motor you need to take the wiper arms off - lift the cap covering the nut - and check where it sits before you take it off, as that's where you want to put it back.. Then you need to take the plastic off and then the motors pretty easy to get to.