MaTTe

what pressure plate do you have in there? The ford pressure plates (not sure about the F6) have to be pre set, eg. compressed so the springs can lock in, otherwise the presure plate wont actually apply pressure on the clutch, which will make it near on impossible to engage a gear. you can bleed the clutch all you like but it wont improve. Did you change the clutch yourself, or get someone else to do it? I would be finding out if the pressure plate was pre set firstly, then thinking about other causes

im pretty sure the turbo's have different coils to the XT/Futura/Fairmont/XR6 The turbos have a higher voltage coil from memory I think it was 12V for the XT/etc 24V for the Turbos and 32V for the Boss engines I'm not sure if the F6 is different to the XR6T. I'd pull a coil out and take it to ford/repco/coventrys and match the part number

the valve seats have more hardening on the turbo heads also. You can have more hardening professionally applied if you go to the right place, I would highly recommend doing so if you plan to get any sort of power out of the engine.

from memory the XR height is equivalent to super low, I think to lower it you have to go down to super super low, or you have the option for ultra low

the heads are similar, but not the same.. the turbo valve seats have more hardening for a start..

the alaskan malamutes are great dogs, but I've always preferred siberian huskys.. If you're in a cool climate it's not too much of a problem, but malamutes sweat through their skin, whereas huskys sweat through their paws, in summer my mates husky just puts it paws into her water bowl to keep cool, but it also reduses the smell meaning you don't HAVE to wash the dog as regularly.. but either way they're very intelligent dogs, very loyal, very furry. The main complaint I have heard of male malamutes is that they don't respect women as an owner as they know being a male that they are superior..

yeah I heard a while back that the BF ecu's log all changes made to the maps, and rather than replacing the last flash, it just adds it to the list. All it basically means, is make sure you go to a good tuner and get a safe tune, don't do burnouts and everything should hold together. Or wait until the warranty is up to start making changes.. OR buy a cheap ba/bf turbo and make a weapon out of that and keep the FG as a daily driver but either way, ford finally got smart after forking out bucketloads on warranty claims

hey mate, I had all the parts not long ago, but the interior wiring looms have gone now.. You'll need the interior body looms, both sides. you'll need the door looms for the drivers door (for the 4 door wiring), and the 2 rear door looms. you'll need the 2 rear window mechanisms, the 2 rear interior door trims (may need to get all 4 so they match) and you'll need the window switches for the drivers door and the rear doors. You also need to either get your BEM flashed or may need to get a new BEM that suits 4 door power windows, im not sure how that side of it works.. Changing it over isn't all that difficult, more just time consuming. Though the seats have to come out so you can pull the carpet up and replace the interior looms. I hope this helps

yeah the plug position is different on our race car to that of a falcon 4L. but the changes did make a difference in times around barbagallo. we also put in plugs that extrude further into the combustion chamber, and that made up a large portion of extra time for us. The problem for the turbos is that having the plug set further into the head can cause the spark to blow out at moderate to high pressures. The way we have it set up in the race car, the ground faces upward, so the spark is uninterupted toward the piston giving a more even and uninterrupted burn. To get a benefit in a 4valve motor I'd be guessing having the ground facing between the exhaust valves would be the most beneficial. and Phantom: at the price it's just as good an idea to use shims for a street motor. You're not trying to get every possible extra out of the motor, and the plugs aren't cheap. We just end up using the other plugs again on the next head or a spare motor. It'd be worth trying, in reality you won't lose anything except the time you spend indexing the motor, you definately wont hinder the performance. The only downside is that it'll be hard to index the plugs on a head that the plugs are so far set into.. we can see all of the porcelain on our motors. It can be done, it'll just be a bit more difficult

hey mate, we index the plugs on the race car. We don't use shims though, we just buy 3 sets and mark each one, and try them until we find one that sits in around about the right spot. each plug can be completely different.. We usually get 1 maybe 1.5 sets out of 20 plugs.. But the left over plugs could be perfect on another head. I can'r say what sort of a difference it makes in terms of KW but it does make a difference in our application

haha I can imagine what'd be said on a Expensive Daewoo forum.. it'd be almost a mirror of this.. 'fully sick car now that it has a GM engine..' But in reality, good on him for going to the effort to engineer something different, he obviously liked the shape of the ford, and the GM engine. I have grown up loving everything ford, and I will respect anything ford first in most cases, but that being said, I've been dedicating alot of time to a 1971 Vauxhall Bedford with a 350 chev, and a 1979 Pontiac Firebird with a 403 olds and I wouldn't change either for ANY ford.. though I would happily add a Boss 429 to the collection do something different regardless of what the masses think, look at the hot rodders of old, some had some WILD designs, most of you would hate it, but that just set the rodders out from the masses.. I wouldn't put that engine into that body, but I still respect it.

ahh fair enough, I was expecting the old cable could be used. Yeah taking the front end off makes it all an enjoyable experience.. good luck to those on the mission

ok sounds like the wiring wasn't as severe an issue as I thought in my head.. the air fuel should be a bit unstable if its accurate - though efi is more precise, we run a lambda sensor in the race car but it has a digital numeric reading. the only time the reading matters is under heavy load.at idle it's very unlikely it'll blow a gasket. See how you go with new coils, and keep us updated.

why does it take so long to install? an hour seems like ages to install something seemingly so simple.. I have only seen photos of the new unit, so im not 100% sure of the mounting points but im guessing from what you've said that you need to remove a few things to mount it.

put it in park, it'll rev as high as you want. if you need it to rev in neutral for some reason, you'll have to get an edit to change the neutral rev limit

I've heard of another member having a TPS on the throttle body changed AND had a TPS on the pedal box changed. I didn't think there was a TPS on the pedal box, but he had a problem and they had changed it hoping it would correct the issue.. I'll go out and have a look at a pedal box later on and take photos if I can see anything that looks like a TPS. Also did you put the dielectric grease onto the plugs/coils when you put new plugs in? The dielectric grease makes a better conduction, and reduces the ability for a miss. It's not expensive. It may well be coilpacks, they shouldn't cause the car to stall though.. it should still run on 4 cyl - poorly, but should still run. You may have a few bad coilpacks though, but I would think you'd notice it when the car's pulling too. But you also said something about the previous owner changed some wiring.. this is worrying. I would check all wires, the OEM wiring is very small gauge so if you were to cut a wire and strip the insulation then solder it to another wire, you'd want to be sure you didn't cut any of the strands as the wire can only conduct through the available strands. If it is a single solid strand it's not as much of a worry. But if it has had alot of modifications to the wiring loom, I would suggest getting another wiring loom. Whether it be the engine loom, or an engine bay loom you'll be able to replace it. But also check around the back of the engine as Angry Trev said, it may have just melted some insulations and causing an arc. Also, have you changed the lambda sensor in the exhaust? they do give up eventually and start transmitting false signals to the ecu. This can cause various issues similar to yours. It is not an expensive part, and worth changing even if just for the sake of it. Good luck

is it auto or manual? I think most autos have a neutral rev limiter at 3000rpm But a manual shouldn't have a revlimiter as the engine can't tell if you're in gear or neutral if you need to rev it for your mates and it's an auto, try park instead of neutral

its easy to get the struts out, it's just a pain to change the springs onto the struts as you have to compress the springs so much to get the top cap back onto the strut. To get the strut out take the brake caliper and disc off, take the top a arm off the sub axle, and you'll be able to work quickly and easily. The spring is the only part that actually takes time. And the front shock bolts aren't torqued anywhere near as tight, so theres no hassles there.

the shock bolt is torqued pretty tight, I used a breaker bar and a length of pipe to crack it. But a little trick if the springs aren't as easy to get out as they should be, the car jack that's in your boot fits in next to the bumpstop on the lower control arm, you can spread the control arm very easily, and don't need to worry about messing around with spring compressors. some cars are as loose as a hooker on a friday night, but others are tight so it can be quite an effort to get the spring out. Good luck

provided the thread on the hose is the same and located in a similar enough position when mounted so that you have enough play when turning the wheels, I don't see any reason why you should need to change the brake lines.. you have the option but not the need

hey mate, I was just wondering if you still have the busted bits from the box? I'd be keen to grab a spigot shaft if you have one that's surplus to your needs..

I think your mate blurred the lines on fuel a little.. I used to work for shell and what you said was right, but only applies to the regular unleaded. the 'premium' is also the same as was the old 'super' (premium with a valve saving addative) The state refinery makes all the fuel (ULP & PULP) for shell, bp and caltex. Mobil and Gull import from singapore. But the 98 for each company is shipped from their refinery whether it is instate or out of state (Unless they are doing something really dodgey in sydney) BP make their Ultimate, Caltex make their Vortex 98, and Shell make their V-Power in Geelong (the old Optimax) Because V-power is made in Geelong it is too expensive to bring over west, so the eastern states get it, but we get gyped. There are different grades of V-Power, the 95RON, the V-Power 100E, and the V-Power 100R 100R is by far the best fuel of the lot, but hard to come by now.. We were shipping it over in drums for the race car, but when we were unable to get it we switched to Vortex 98. I have always preferred Ultimate over Vortex 98, but the Vortex seems to be better at top end in the race car going on times.. In short the fuels are all similar enough for day to day driving, but if you can get V-Power 100R, stockpile it!

Shell V-Power 100R is the best of the lot, its harder to find, and only available in the eastern states. Most stock the V-Power 100E, but the cocktail isn't as good as the 100R I've always liked the Ultimate over the Vortex 98, but we used Vortex in the race car after we were unable to get the V-Power, and it seemed to be better than the ultimate at top end.

ive heard a brake supplier on another forum say that the DBAs are a better quality product, plus the're australian made. and he swears by them. I have only used the DBAs, so I cant compare from personal experience.

hey fellas, the V8 box is a 97LE, the turbos and NAs are 93LEs I couldn't see anything in the manual that listed different parts, it only lists differences between a 93LE and 97LE. however I have the manual here if anyone wants to read it word for word. Cheers, MaTTe