MaTTe

mate, it's exactly the same as doing a manual conversion on an auto car, but in reverse. provided you have all the parts to go with it - it'll be bolt up. I converted my auto futura to manual, when I did I got everything in a kit, the only thing I didn't get was the tailshaft. If you get all the necessary stuff it's easy. I would recommend though, getting an auto ecu, taking it to ford and getting it programmed to match your car before starting the conversion, so that when you're done you can just drive it. The things you'll need (if you're going standard ford auto) -you'll need the box, and torque convertor -the flywheel is different too -you can just unbolt the clutch pedal if you like, or you can get an auto pedal box, I have an adjustable one here if you are looking at that option. -You'll need the trans cooler lines from the box to the radiator -if the cars never been an auto, you'll need a radiator that has the trans cooliing section on the bottom, or an external trans cooler (better option) -gearshifter, and shifter surround -auto ecu is preferable, but not necessary from the sounds of it (ford couldn't get either auto or manual to work on my car, but eventually found the right map for the maual ecu) -wiring harness is preffered, but the current one can be converted if necessary - I think a non turbo auto loom will work on a turbo car as the turbo loom is seperate to the engine loom from what I've heard.. -tailshaft will be a different length, and because it's longer you can't just have it cut and balanced.. -you'll want to remove the spigot bearing aswell, something you probably wont actively think about because its not obviously visable when under the car.. there must be something else I'm forgetting, because it sounds far too simple.. though there are a few extra things that need doing for a manual conversion. I hope this helps

hey mate, the casting is essentially the same, however the Turbo intake doesn't have the holes for the butterfly shaft. The turbo doesn't need the butterflies as they would end up causing more of a restriction than a benefit.. it might help from 0-1500rpm maybe 2000rpm, but then it would be a massive restriction, and probably a shock to the system when the butterflies open eg. boost spike. when you think about it, ford would have tested the car with and without the butterflies on the turbo, and obviously decided the car was better without it..

in some cases different makes of tyres can cause issues with abs sensors, also if there is a significant difference in tyre wear it can cause the abs sensors to recieve different readings. hopefully it is just something simple like this that you're dealing with

whiteline have a part that you put either side of the ubolts that support the swaybar. this will clamp to the swaybar stopping it from being able to slide from side to side. from memory it is not expensive, but really it should come with the swaybars as it it a pretty common issue. fortunately very easy to fix. check out the whiteline website, they look like urethane rings maybe 10mm wide.. if not call whiteline themselves as they'll know what you're talking about I hope this helps

haha that's gold. charlie sheen's onto a good thing

its most liekly just excessive build up of metal filings on the sensor, but it may well have a sensor that needs replacing. You can clean the sensor off yourself if you're willing to get a bit dirty, or easily enough have it checked out by a brake specialist

I was highly entertained by the gore of the crazy midgets, but some of you don't seem to share my passion... fight some of the guys with higher ranks, they have some CRAZY weapons/manouvers.. But if you miss your 5 minutes that much, sign the petition..

hey fellas, a mate showed me this the other day, and I was entertained enough to pass this on, http://xmattebx.mybrute.com make a character and battle it out to the death! you gotta enter the arena, but it'll make you laugh - if not - you seriously have to lightenup! enjoy

as erko said, as a general rule for our race car we get as much caster as physically possible, and then take the camber as close to -3(our divisions maximum allowable) as possible. we usually toe the front out 3-5mm These setting will obviously be different to your needs, though probably similar to what your looking for in some areas..

yeah very possibly just the contacts needed to be roughed up a bit, if it's not used regularly, that's probably all it was. When my car was an auto I used it quite regularly without any issues.. Hopefully the problem is now sorted permanently! NVT: the auto was working fine when it came out. I pulled it out to convert to manual (best thing I ever did). The box has been sitting collecting dust for about a year now and it's just taking up space, so if anyone wants it, it's available for $700. The box had a full service and flush about 3-5000km before I converted it (maybe less)

sounds like a glitch in the software, rather then the gearbox itself, was it still changing gears as it should in drive? If the gearbox is fuct, I have a 4spd auto out of my futura that came out when the manual went in, that you can have cheap.. I advise trying a few more times though, get in the car, switch over to performance, then back to drive, repeat a few times over the course of the drive, just make sure it's not just a bad contact in the shifter

sounds very similar to a TPS to me. My car used to do that to me idling, accelerating.. etc. as soon as you restart the car it will be fine.. problem was I'd have to restart it 5-6 times on some short drives, other times it'd be fine. If you know anyone that can swap you a throttle body for a couple of days/weeks try it, if not, I'd almost definately say it's worth spending the money and swapping it yourself ($155 yourself, $380ish for Ford to do it) If you're in perth I'll lend you mine. I hope this helps.

hey, I've heard of whiteline sway bars moving around before. the knock is probably the swaybar hitting the disc. Whiteline make a part that you put on the outside of the swaybar mounts to stop the bar moving side to side. It's not expensive, but it is suprising that it isn't sold with the swaybar considering how common it is. I hope this helps

yeah, I haven't done it personally.. But I certainly wouldn't recommend this as one of your first mods, wait until you have done everything you can think of, and then consider the TB, bacuse it wont make much of a difference on it's own, and the money will be MUCH better spent elsewhere

$77 a litre becomes pretty expensive per oil change.. how mcu oil in the sump of your turbo? 7.5L? but the way it works, you just use 60ml per litre in your sump. I always double dose it, because the benefit far out weighs the cost. It ends up making any random oil better than almost all high priced oils(yet to test royal purple) I still prefer to use shell oil as a minimum however. I could explain the benefits all day long, I've heard them all so many times coming from a man that knows his oils. You wouldn't want to use the addative in high ratio in a gearbox or transfer case however, it becomes like a LSD, you need a little bit of friction for the syncros in a gearbox to grab, if you have no oil in there, the synchros will repel each other. But I will seriously offer a money back garauntee if any one is unsure. I know you'll realise it is money well spent instantly. You don't know acceleration in your own car until you've had microglide in it. But yeah, I don't mean to hijack the thread, more to throw a preventative option out to you all.

As I said before, the people that 'call bullsh*t' are those that have no experience with addatives. Early in a 8 lap race, lap 2 from memory, the oil light came on. The driver immediately backed off, dropping from first place to third. After a lap of cruising the car seemed as if nothing was wrong, so the driver figured it was an electrical fault and started pushing on. By this time we had lost alot of ground on the cars ahead of us, but managed to catch and take back 2nd place, and got close to reclaiming 1st by then end of the 8th lap. When the car pulled into the pits, it was idling right next to us, while the driver was telling us that the oil light had come on. No one in the pits could hear any of the signs of low or more to the point NON EXISTENT oil pressure. Shocked by what the driver had said, we shut off the motor and pulled off the rocker cover. Everything was bone dry. We changed that motor for a spare in 47minutes and went out and won the next race. After the race wekend was over we pulled down the motor to find that we had broken the oil pickup clean off, the vibrations had got the better of it. Seeing that - we feared the worst. But when we pulled the big ends off, and pulled the conrods apart, and pulled the pistons out we were happily surprised that there was no wear on anything. The bearings were all exactly the same as they had been at the start of the season, the cylinders were just as fresh as the day they were honed. Because everything was so perfect, there was no point in changing any of the bearings, so we put the motor back with the same bearings and piston rings, and the motor finished the rest of the season. It's not magic, but it sounds alot like it. It proves itself on a pressure wheel. Anyone that has used a pressure wheel will know, oil on a pressure wheel makes a screech that could break fillings in your teeth. Put a good addative - note GOOD addative - on the pressure wheel and the sound becomes nearly non existent. The amperage of the pressure wheel shows a massive change too, it's much harder to drive the pressure wheel with the drag created by metal on metal even when there is oil coating it. One day when I have some free time I will film the use of the pressure wheel with all of the variables I can throw at it. there are enough standard and 'good' motor oils kicking around the shed to give you an idea of how similar they are, then I'll throw some addative on to open your eyes. A bit of insight.. Dan: I get Microglide off My Grandad's long time friend, Ken May - for any of you that know him. I would even be willing to give a personal money back garauntee, because I know for a fact that you will be addicted after using it. I use it in all my engines, manual gearboxes, non-LSDs, powersteering, any other hydraulics etc. It can't be used in Automatics in its pure form, because they require friction to operate, but there is an automatic transmission addative they have formulated to give the benefits. It cannot be used in LSDs because they too require friction to operate, so a LSD will become a one wheel wonder, where as my open diff acted as a LSD constantly. Ask anyone that has used and more to the point, tested PROMA - what they think, and what results were achieved. PROMA is a little different in the way it works, and the sort of benefits you gain, but the friction elimination is the same.

Hye mate, I didn't mean any offence. I was stating more that as unusual as a cam lobe wearing is, it is not uncommon. I have seen cam lobes so worn that htey are perfectly round. I was stating more that alot of people hear the word addative and turn a blind eye, or start taking shots, or have never heard anything about them. Oils can only ever be so good. That quality Penrite oir whatever top grade oil you can find, will usually breakdown on a pressure wheel somewhere between 25-35ft/lbs. The addatives I listed above have tested to well above 120ft/lbs, and don't wear the bearings used in the test - unlike any oil you wish to name. I have seen an article on another forum that did an oil test, the Royal Purple didn't wear the lifter. where as all the others did. I haven't presonally tested Royal Purple, but all oils I have tested in the past come up like the lifters in that specific test. It was no disrespect to you, but I still think you should research Microglide especially. it has saved one of our race motors after having no oil pressure for most of a race, the bearings were still like new, so we put the motor tegether with the same bearings. That engine should have siezed, or atleast scored the bearings heavily. a bit of insight..

redline water wetter is WAY better than 'coolant' the glycol in coolant is purely antifreeze, so unless you live somewhere that the water is likely to freeze over night - you don't need it. Water wetter meets all australian design regulations and as a bonus will keep you 10 degrees ++ cooler

It's a shame to hear of your woes.. but as much as it hurts to hear, addative - good addative - would have prevented this. The filings are obviously bad, bad a good addative like 'Microglide', or the previous revision 'EF' or even 'PROMA' would have stoipped the filings wearing the surfaces, and would have dislodged the filings before making them at home as was the case in your motor. Hopefully for your motors sake you look into the benefits further. Good luck from here on

Hey fellas, good to hear the insight may help you onto the right path. I live in karrinyup, if you want to look at my pressure plate you're more than welcome, I took a photo yesterday, but ti didn't turn out too good, so I will take another tomorro and see if it is more explanitory. I have a .pdf for the manual, but it doesn't do the twin plate clutches (to my knowledge) but you can have the section on the clutch anyway if it helps. Cheers fellas, good luck

My biggest recommendation is get a chip. We got a chip before be bought any games, and now we've been thru about 30 games.. between those that we've downloaded and those that mates have downloaded we've saved alot of money.. Just gotta make sure you only do updates from PAL games, or use Wii Brick Blocker before burning the games. I can send you guys burnt games for the cost of the discs and postage if anyone wants.. Bully is good, graphics aren't awesome, but the gameplay is pretty fun Godfather is good too, those two are the most like GTA (which you cant get on Wii..) Mario kart is good, the missus loves it, but I get bored... Wii Fit is good too, they just need to bring out number 2 Mario galaxy is probably the best game on the whole console, graphics are good, and gameplay is good/hard Paper mario is ok, so is mario and sonic Resident evil 4 is good, umbrella chronicles is crap Manhunt isn't bad either Lego indiana Jones is pretty good, batman is alright, but its made by a different company so it's a little different. Star wars was corrupted so I couldn't unzip it. A bit of food for thought

hey sorry fellas, only just found the thread again. I saw a picture of a F6 clutch that Tocci took, and the pressure plate looks different to the pressure plate I have, but it may still work the same although visually different. With mine, it has printed on the face saying check the shop manual to set the springs. It has 3 yellow springs set around the outside of the fingers, the pressure plate needs to be compressed so that the springs can slide across and hold the pressure plate in its compressed state. When I had to do mine, I called alot of clutch specialists, and ford specialists, and my cousin at a ford dealership and none of them had ever heard of it, because it's not something that is dealt with regularly. The head technician at Lynford knew about it though. Maybe contact Senna and ask him to find out if it is necessary with the F6 pressure plate, or ask him if there is a knack to setting up the pressure plate before installation, you'll need to stress to him that he shouldn't simply take the first 'no, ive never heard of anything like that' as gospel. I installed my pressure plate without setting the springs and had the exact same issue as you're talking about, and rather than wait 3 days for ford to fix it, I took my car home pulled the pressure plate out, got them to set it and had the car back there with the clutch back in within a matter of hours, all so I could finally drive my freshly manual converted falcon over the weekend. unfortunately the ford manual I have doesn't list the fpv's so I can't check it up for you there, but if anyone has a workshop manual for the fpv's they should be able to tell you. I hope this helps

yeah I had alot of different setups over the course of the cars life. But with the pod there was always alot of induction noise, it varied with the different setups. You want to find the pod with the highest cfm. There are many different types of pods too, I have a BMC twin conical pod, eg, has the outer cone, and a cone in the tip rather than being blocked off. The more air you can get to the pod the better, eg F6 CAI or one of the FG XR8 lower sections. And the more air you can get from the pod to the TB the better - though you may lose a bit of low down torque, it will be made up for in top end.. I guess it depends alot on how you use your revs. I hope this helps fellas

we used the lucas pads on the race car for years, they're HEAPS better than the bendix ultimates, the ultimates glaze on our car very quickly. If you want top end performance there are better options than the lucas pads, but they're great everyday and performance pads too

check the earths too, make sure they're making good contact and are tight. If it doesn't make a good earth it'll be likely to cause similar problems. If there's alot of corrosion, take the terminals off and get a circular file and file the inside of the clamps, run a wire brush over the terminals, and then grease the terminals or get some of the terminal protector spray. Could also be alternator as was said. Check the voltage of the battery when standing and when running. should be around 12V when standing, and 14Vodd when running.