MaTTe

antique tyres can white wall tyres, so im sure they can redwall them too. they also sell a range of white and red wall tyres thru the shop.

hey mate, yeah you should be able to walk into ford and ask for the new bonnet release lever, and you should get the new part. unfortunately I dont have a picture, but it looks fairly different in the way it clips into the fuse box

I used Redline Light Shock, and Microglide addative. The light shock tested almost as well as the microglide on the pressure wheel. I haven't tested transmax on the pressure wheel, but it still doesn't make sense to me putting auto trans fluid into a manual transmission.

hey mate, they actually redesigned the system about a year ago, so you just need the new bonnet release lever, its located in the fuse block differently so you shouldn't need a new fuse block. If you go in and see the service guys they should be able to look at it and see that its fine (provided you get an honest worker) then buy a new one and have it fitted on the spot, or take it home and fit it up.

I always thought that 16's fit over BA standard brakes, and maybe perfomance brakes, but not brembos. But the BFs need 17's to fit over the rear brakes. This may be wrong, but that's what I've always thought. With the rim that says EL, the EL rims had the larger circles cut out rather than the pinholes in the BAs didnt they? But I dont think ELs had 16" rims, unless they're aftermarket. But the EL do have a different offset which could well have been the problem.

hey mate, not all cabs are straight gas, some are, some are petrol that have been converted to gas(dual fuel) I haven't heard of any with 250-300kw, as most taxis are pretty standard.. but then again there may well be someone out there that likes running a red hot taxi. If you are looking at a cab and want to run it on petrol, if it is dual fuel you can have the gas removed, or just stop using it, if it is a factory dedicated gas, it'll take a bit more effort to have it run on petrol.. you'll need to remove the gas tank and install a petrol tank, get a fuel pump and gauge sender, petrol lines, have the engine setup for petrol, and have the ecu setup for it.. I hope this helps.

Hey mate, I have an addative that will boost the octane, but not by huge amounts like some of the other brands, but it is REALLY good for the fuel system. There is also another product made in WA(not sure if its available over east) called NF, you can get street and race versions. The race will boost by upto 5 RON, where as the Nulon claim 6 RON, but the NF contains NOS and is very good for your fuel system, wont tarnish plugs either.. a bit more food for thought..

hey mate, yeah it was a bastard to get off, but I didn't think it'd be THAT hard.. I'd call around about a windscreen, you don't want to be paying much more than $250-350 We generally go thru Novus, but call obrian, instant, and any other local blokes.. you'll find someone with a good deal. Good luck

hey mate, it's not just a need to have the screw driver I there from memory, I think I hadto put the screwdriver in and twist it to get the leverage on it, but not having anything to pull does make it difficult. maybe wedge the screwdrivers in as you did, and get another screwdriver to hit the edge of the housing, you want to hit is pretty soft, so you dont put too much shock thru the glass. you may want someone else in the car to hold the screwdrivers..

hey mate, here are some pics.. as you can see in the pics, the 2 little horizontal dots are what hold it in place, you have to wedge a screwdriver between the housing and the clip so that it is far enough out to slide off. Good luck

hey mate, it took me a little while to figure it out when I took mine off, I'll have a look at it again to refesh my memory..

where is it broken? in the engine bay? or the plastic has come off the fuse box? if its just the plastic and the fuse box you can get a couple of pair of pliers and hold the black sheath for the wire, then pull the wire out and this'll have the same effect as pulling the lever. you may be able to do it by hand. If it's in the engine bay, I dont envy your position. you'll basically be wanting to pull off the stone tray and try to get your hand up from underneath, but even then you need to have an idea of what you're trying to get to at arms reach good luck

if you really want to turn a turbo into a NA, you'll be best off removing the whole engine and putting in a non turbo motor from the wreckers, you'll want the complete engine harness, ecu, motor, exhaust manifolds etc.. but if you can get an exemption that'd be much better

hey mate, I have been looking at a module for my Bedford that will make the windows one touch up and down, as well as auto up when locked. the part I have been looking at is the Python/Viper/DEI 530T. They have various brand names as they are all part of the DEI (Directed Electrics) company. 530T will put the windows up and down one touch, the 529T wont. Prices I have found in Australia are generally $100-150, there may be better prices over east but I'm not sure about that. I have been planning to get one from the US as they sell for around $50 american ($55-60AU) and shipping is anywhere from $15-40US, so it can either be a bit under $100, or around the $100 mark I'm not sure how easy it will be to fit yet, but I'd assume it'll be a little harder to fit to a falcon(even though I'm usign all BA window parts) You may also be able to get a switch out of a high series FG such as a pursuit or a tornado that may have auto down for the drivers window, this would be a straight swap if anything like the B series I hope this helps

contact FTG or similar, there has to be a manual pedal box around that you can rob..