gramps_BA

Yeah that's the one. I cant get the heat shield off to remove the last bolt in the engine mount bracket. Fun fun.

Just read about the other bracket nut under heat shield. What a *beep*.

Thanks guys. Have gone and got new lines / turbo to replace but Im having trouble getting the turbo out though. On the exhaust housing side to manifold the bottom left nut has been removed but there is a thread then a bracket then the turbo.. Everything else is removed and ready for it to be pulled out but this one bracket which seems to be holding the turbo up to the manifold cant be removed. Anyone else have this, it wasnt mentioned in this thread and I couldnt see it in the pictures.

From further reading Im guessing my line needs to be replaced as blockage sounds common. Will sort one tomorrow. Im guessing once the feed line has both banjo's removed from each end its just a matter of squeezing it out. Any suggestions to make this easier guys?

Hi guys, I read the thread on cleaning the oil filter banjo and decided to pull mine out after some bearing noise. Filter was caked and after blowing though the bolt I realised there was no chance of any oil getting through it as either was air. I have since removed and replaced with a new filter, checked for leaks, all good. So I still hear some noise and decide to inspect further. I remove the oil feed banjo out of the top of my turbo, clean the ring and leave disconnected with a catch underneath it to see what comes out. I idle the car for around 3-4 minutes and see nothing coming though pipe. Also I give two slight increase of revs from the throttle, nothing comes out. Question is should I have seen at least something by now? And if so do I replace the oil feed line from the turbo to sump/ banjo filter bolt? Any help would be great, thanks everyone.

Hi guys, With the standard turbos on a BA XR6 turbo and a Territory Turbo, is the actuator in the same location? My mate is looking at a bolt on replacement to his damaged XR6 turbo but says on the pics he has of the new one they dont look in the same spot. (Territory pic looks like it's higher above the A/R.50 stamp on compressor housing.) Does anyone know if these are a straight replacement between models and if the actuators are in the same spot? Cheers.

thanks for the reply mate, I went and had a look but that isn't the style I was after. :( XR2DY4 Gauge This one looks like it still fits normal size gauges in but the one I wanted doesnt. It's about half the height and is one round mould comming off the dash with one gauge in it. Must of been a one off design I guess, cant find anything similar anywhere.

Hi guys, might be a weird one but I remember a little while back I saw a dash mould and psi gauge in the usual spot for sale on ebay. I have never come across it again and was hoping someone might know. I see the normal ones around like; But this one wasn't like the cup holder poking out of the mould it was like the whole mould was a smooth oval shape and inside was the gauge, sort of like you see on some cars but with a clock in it? Terrible description, sorry guys. Well if anyone can point me in the direction of anything like this it would be much appreciated. Cheers!

sorry to hijack but had to post, lol.

and those rims.... oh how I loved those rims. had a set on my sigma and scorpion dumped. Loved it.

85000 in my 2003 ba xr6t. leather still look new fuel consumption is a whole other can of worms..

big thanks hiddeous. Was glad your post didn't start with a "What the hell, how is your car driving, you mole!"

Removed the air box to install the phoon intake and noticed this plug. It leads out from under the ecu on the strut tower. Could not find anything in the vicinity to marry it up with. Any ideas? Cheers!!!!

Tell me about it! Subaru 90 GT Legacy Wagon here, quick but the doors just don't close the same as on my new car. Now have a 03 BA Blueprint, haven't looked back. The doors are great

light on = T.C. off

yeah I know what you mean. When we saw it the jaws where on the floor, but seriously I was thinking diff/ tailshaft or similar. Besides the point now as arguing on the phone for 30 minutes with the company CEVA (old TNT Logistics) they are trying to palm it off as either; "owner did it two days in between inspection and pickup" or "you did it after taking ownership, on a speed hump" I dont know where these high pointy speedhumps are but everyone please be carefull of them as they will snap your trans mount cruising in a standard rideheight BA Falcon. Also because the inspection company did not include underbody appraisal and photos (they just said car is immaculate) they are saying the owner was likely to have done the damage. Insert yourself arguing back and forth with two different companies who deal with this daily, I was never going to get anywhere with this. I'll post the pics so you can see the wrath of speedhumps in NSW... or SA..... who knows.

thanks for your help mate, no it hasn't done that on the one launch I have done but........ I transported my car from NSW using a major moving company and yesterday took her down to my mechanic. Up on the hoist, MY GOD. Transmission mount snapped in half, trans hanging nearly in mid air. Scrapes and dent underneath with marks of yellow paint. So now I am in the process of making a claim against the company as I have a 10 page report from before the car left the original buyer stating everything a-ok and then it gets delivered to me in that state! Just thought I would update the thread with the outcome and hopefully have her back on the road again soon. Cheers again.

yeah actually there is a little vibration from the tyres, bit of noise but I mean nothing major, wouldn't think it would cause the feel that it does. Not sure of brand though lol, only had the car a few days but I'll check. Also how would I know signs of axle tramp issues? I'm hoping to roll her into a workshop tonight so hopefully can clear this up.

Hi guys, Just picked up my 2003 BA XR6T with stock 4 SPD and have noticed a slight vibration/ shudder through the driveline at low speeds RPM. I get it both in drive or 1-2 sequential shift and can replicate it standing point, slow 1/4 - 2/4 throttle press up to about 20-30km's. Doesn't shudder the whole way through but you can hold it there for a little bit unless you power out through the revs a bit more. I know this sounds like a "I have a clunking noise, please diagnose" but coming from a Subaru background (I have since learnt the errors in my ways) and I am not really sure which things to point at like tailshaft, diff etc.. So I am wondering before I take it into the shop is there something common on these setups that can go or needs adjusting/ balancing after some time? Car has 74,xxx on the clock. Cheers guys.

now im with you mate, sorry I was thinking you meant turning off the link! yeah I hear you. I guess it's prob overkill if I was to leave the factory unit in as well.

thanks but sorry for sounding uninformed but what do you mean by that? This is for my own benifit in the car in case of any issues that may arise resulting in a lean out. I had one on my suby and it has paid for itself when it comes to engine detonation.

Hi all, I have one of these Knock Links and am going to be purchasing a XR6T soon. Just wanted to know does anyone run one? Is the standard knock sensor good enough without this unit for an added precaution. The car I would be talking about would have mild mods as in tune and injectors with more boost. Cheers.