Tockley

I did cat and fuel pump (along with air box a while ago) and got 330rwkw after a tune. Stock with air box was 285rwkw on the same dyno. These cars are monsters so you shouldn't need too much to hit 300.

Plenty of info around regarding BA/BF sways, and some info on the FGs but thought I would see if I can get some answers all in to a single thread, might save people some time searching! I did the front/rear sway bars on the BF XR6T myself, so I am reasonably confident with the rear, but I do have some questions regarding the front bar, linkages, and settings/fitment. I finally got around to getting some Whitelines front (33mm adjustable) and rear (22mm adjustable) this week as the difference in the BF was huge, so hoping for a good result on the F6 too. 1. Do it on ramps, or on stands/jacks? I did my BF on stands/jacks with almost tight bolts, then lowered it to the ground and finished tightening everything properly at ride height - is this ok, or should I get some ramps as the better option? 2. The Whiteline 33mm front comes with new linkages - are these easy to put on? Nothing too complex obviously, but I guess you unbolt old front bar, remove both linkages, attach new linkages, then new bar - do I need to remove the wheels or is it all accessible under ramps/stands? Any other tips/tricks to be aware of? 3. Lateral locks - required? Looks like due to the weight and fitment, a lot of people previously had lateral movement causing clunking and bar movement - lateral locks are now included. I assume I would be silly not to use them? 4. What settings should I start with - my previous BF bars were non-adjustable? I am not doing a track day for at least a couple of months, so I am guessing I should just go softest back (2 choices) and softest or second softest front (4 choices) to start with? Anything else I should be concious of, or any other tips to make my life easier when doing the swap over? I will try and put together a photo essay for the forums when I get around to doing the work... Cheers guys.

Nice launch. Still yet to try this in my F6 - need to find these "private roads" asap.

I am assuming that is 6 pot vs 4 pot fronts...

Could just be the way the photos were taken:

Has anyone confirmed the wheel colour side-by-side? Dark argents vs F6 mkII's? A couple of conflicting views, and the pics in this review certainly make the wheels look much lighter blue/grey compared to the dark argent wheels...

Yeah my bad too! Winter white FG F6 as per the sig. Just cracked the 4000km mark - 29 years old.

Not sure how legit that is... I've had one in both my XR6T and the new F6, dealers haven't said boo. In fact, I am pretty sure that K&N provide a number for this reason... Just lie to the dealer and say you had a mechanic undo the screws and place the filter in the box. Very high tech stuff.

1600KGs for manual on both - my boat is slightly over, but never had any issues with my BF XR6T (except maybe some slight clutch burn on the ramp!)

I will be doing this soon - definitely get the Hayman Reece tongue type as it looks much better than the bog standard ball type. I'm still worried about having someone cutting up the rear bar of my baby. Apparently there are some places around that do a much tidier job in cutting and sealing (than Ford, of course), and also heard whispers that some workshops can hide the hitch away behind replaceable plastic so your rear bar looks stock unless tow in use. Have not yet done the ring around to confirm.

Those wheels (in close up pics) look too light in colour to be matched to the eyes - perhaps just a camera issue? I think those wheels would look great in a dark argent shade of black/graphite.

Nah confirmed hex before I started - and had a BF xr6t to double check on as well. That bolt came out with no dramas...

Hey guys - just wondering if anyone has had the bolt on their child restraint (on the parcel shelf) strip when trying to remove? Was taking off the shelf to replace the factory sub with a kicker - had a perfect fit hex/allen but the bolt is in so tight it just stripped the guts of the head. I then knocked in a flat head and despite it being in very solidly, it to stripped the head further - the bolt is clearly in there wayyyy over tightened. Happened to anyone else? And did you come up with a trick to get it out that doesn't involve breaking the whole lot?

I was reading with interest til I saw the dates! Wanted a hide-away tow option for my FG F6...

Just curious - I will be replacing my sub with the 8" Kicker direct replacement. Should I still reverse the wires?