blue_xr6

I am planning to change oil for my fg xr6t. After reading this thread, I am a bit confused as different people use different oils. I will stick wt Castrol Edge fully synthetic as it is recommended by Ford. However, between 0W40 and 10W60, I'm still confused which one is used. Can anyone explain to me what the meaning of these 2 numbers. I don't drive my car hard all the times (just occasionally). Someone say 10W60 is too thick and only needed under hard driving while others says 0W40 is too thin and the turbo needs thicker engine. So which one is better for everyday driving? In the factory manual, they recommended 15W40 for XR6T (there's no synthetic oil at this grade), but for the XR8, they recommended 15W40 for the first 15000K then 0W40 thereafter. Should the turbo use the same engine with the V8?

I am planing to buy seat cover for my FG XR6T. Can anyone show me how to remove the rear seat (both the base and the back)

Hi guys, Just sold my old BA and got the new 08 octane FG XR6T. A lot of you on this forum say that the 6spd automatic on FG is much stronger than the BA 5spd that's why I change from manual on my BA to an automatic FG. Honestly, I am a bit disappointed on performance of the FG. The automatic gear box was so smooth that I can't feel much G-force like in the manual, and I don't like feeling of the kick-down in gear in the automatic when suddenly flooring the accelerator on over taking. It does go fast when you look at the speedometer but I don't feel it as fast as my old manual BA. Any way, the car was great except a minor problem on power window that I just realise. When I wind up or down my window, it does go smooth and fast but I can hear a noise from the mechanism of the motor inside. Not loud but enough for me to hear and feel the motor is not healthy. Is it normal? As I bought my car from dealer and still under 5000kms guarantee, is this covered under warantee? I don't want to go back to dealer unless this is a big problem as I live very far away. Thanks

Hi, I am planning to change oil for my FG XR6T. I've never done this before, so I need some advice. First of all, I need to get a jack and a pair of jack stands. As this is my first time to go under the car, I want to make sure it safe, I don't mind to pay extra on these devices to increase the safety. I am planning to get a 2T jack and a pair of 1500kg stands, are these enough to support the FG and any brands recommended (I saw a few at supercheap and Repco). For the jack, I want to get the 3000kg one to improve safety, but I am scare that it can't go under the low front bumper (my car is standard, not lowered). Does anyone know the height of the front bumper from ground? For the stands, is screw stand or pin stand better? For jack points, the car manual only show the side which is on the rails underneath the doors, that is where I use for the stand. But I am not sure where to jack the front. I've seen a thread on how to change oil for the BA. Is procedure for the FG the same?

Hi guys, From research, I know that to increase power on the FG XR6T, it's recommended to to a custom tune with the X3 flash tuner unit. I've had a custom tuned on my old BA using the old CAPA unit, to save money on buying the X3 unit, can I use the CAPA and do a custom tune for my new FG T. What's the differences between these 2 units (the old CAPA and the new X3)? I am not after serious performance, just planning to do the tune and upgrade new injector for my new FG to get around 300RWKW. Is the CAPA unit good enough for this kind of power?

Thanks Brenno85, your advice did help a lot, I'll use this as a guide when buying my car. I definitely don't want to buy car that's been modified (even I will modify it after got it). Is it easy to tell if the car has been modified and removed (should a mechanic be able to tell). Another thing is for the FG XR6T, is the sat nav standard? Also is tow bar standard? I personally don't like car with tow bar (it look ugly and may be used to tow something which I think not good for the car), but all the car for sale got tow bar, so I reckon it should come standard with the FG XR6T. Let me know if I am wrong

Hi guys, My BA XR6T just got written off after a crash. Now I am planning to get a used FG XR6T. Do you guys think it's better to buy it from a dealer or private. From my past experience, with older car (less than $15K), the prize from dealer is always a lot dearer than from private. However, with recent research, for the used FG XR6T, it's very hard to find one with low kms under $32K from private and there're a few of them under $30K from dealer. I think the dealer is never stupid to sell a car that is under the market value unless the car has problems. Plus, it's hard to see problems with the cars if buying from dealer as the dealer can cover these smartly where as it's easier to see if the car is good if buying private. Please give me advice should I go for dealer or private. Another thing surprise me is that since the new series 2 FG nearly come out, I expect the market value of the series 1 will drop, but it's not. I bought my 2003 BA XR6T in 2006 for $25K, there's no way that I can get the 2008 XR6T now for that kind of money.

Does anyone here use the g-tac software on I-phone to measure the speed, quarter mile, 0-100 etc. ? I've heard they're pretty good and come free from app store. I've just download mine but don't how to use it. When I touch on the "g-tac" logo, a car image appears for 1s then gone. Does anyone here know how to use it?

Thanks for all yours advice guys. Since people have different opinions on which spark plugs should be used on the T. I just chose one which is the NGK PFR6B platinum come pregaped at 0.8 mm and it works perfectly on my car. No more rough idle, smooth acceleration (I was worry about the coil pack at the start but my coil packs seem to be OK for now). The reason I stick with NGK platinum is even it's a bit expensive (I've paid $130 for six), I hope it lasts longer than the factory copper ones (It took me nearly 2 hrs to change the spark plugs so I don't want to do it often). I also checked the Denso ones on ebay ($95 for 6 on ebay), but since my car was so bad, so I don't want to wait over the weekend for the Denso plugs to be post. I haven't used Denso plugs before so can't tell which one is better, but NGK is pretty good to me. Does anyone know the differences between Irridium and Platinum Spark Plugs? Which ones is better and last longer? Someone from this forum said that even platinum spark plugs would only last for 20000kms on modded T, is this correct? I'll see, if that's the case, I'll change to the normal copper ones and change everytime I do service. It's cheaper that way. Once again. Thank you. I found this forum is very useful. Since joining this forum, I've never bring my car to mechanic to check for problems. You guys gave me spot on suggestions to fix my problems. Awesome.

Thanks for your information. I'll get the plugs soon and put on my car. However, I've just opened my bonnet and couldn't find where the spark plugs on my BA XR6T is (sorry for asking such a stupid question, but I've never changed the spark plugs in my car before so I don't know. I did change it on my previous cars the plugs were just there in front of me when the bonnet was opened). Do I have to open the engine cover to change the spark plugs on the BA? Is it easy to do?

Hi, Due to bad idle and exhaust firing recently on my BA XR6T, it's time for me to change spark plugs and coil packs (as suggested by many members on this forum). How do I know if it's a spark plugs or coil packs problems? I am gonna change one by one to see. I am gonna change the spark plugs first as they're cheaper. I haven't changed the spark plugs since bought the car at 100,000kms (now it's done 175,000kms), so I don't know which spark plugs is good for the BA XR6T? My tuner did regapped my spark plugs when he tuned my car (but I forgot to how much the new gaping is, does this really matter to chose the spark plugs) Any suggestion on which brand and product number of spark plugs should be used on my car will be appreciated (there're a few platinum one on the market so I don't know which one is good). The platinum spark plugs should last for 100,000 kms, is this correct?

Is venting the BOV and blocking it the same? It seems these two terms have been used alot, but I don't really know if they're the same. With regarding to my Kompact SS BOV, the fitting guys did block the exhaust hose as my BOV doesn't have this hose. I am not sure about the venting but my BOV still produce the flutter sound (and it very small, very similar to the stock one without being blocked) and I set my BOV to soft as well.

Just fitted a XForce twin 2.5' mild steel cat back system in my T. I noticed there's a coating (I think ceramic) over its surface. Can someone tell me what is this coating for? The exhaust shop guys had to heat the exhaust up to bend my exhaust a bit so the two tips sit right in the middle of the exhaust hole on the rear bumper bar (at the start after fit it on, the tips sat on one side so it touched the bumper bar when I turn). As the result, the coating is gone at the place where heat is applied. It looks ugly now, but I don't mind coz it's just about 2 inch long. I'm just worried if it damage the exhaust, weaker, hotter, easier to rust or something like that. Now after a long drive, I can smell some burning smell, is it normal?

Just fitted a Turbosmart Kompact Supersonic into my car and very disappointed at the sound of it. It got a flutter sound (tututututut) intead of the BOV (ppshshshsh) and the Autobarn guy said the supersonic one should be loudest in the Kompact series but I hardly hear anything even at full boost (9psi). It sounds not much better than the stock flutter sound at all. Can anyone got Turbosmart Kompact BOV fitted tell me what yours sound like and how loud it is? Does the hard-soft setting help with the sound? Which setting sounds louder?

Agree, 300RWKW is way too much for the T5. My gear box is already up to its limit at 260RWK. Should keep it below 260 to be safe

I've just ordered a Turbosmart Kompact Supersonic BOV from Auto Barn and will pick it up and fit it tomorrow. I know these things are illegal on the street. Just wondering if anyone with BOV fitted got any issues with the issurance. Should I ring up and tell them that I just fitted a BOV or just ignore it. If they still insure my car, I'll definitely ring up and tell them otherwise I'll take it off in case of any accidents involved later on. Mine with AAMI.

No, the revs are not rising fast under normal acceleration, when I push the gas harder then the revs go up and the car will also speed up normal. The problem just occur under slightly acceleration at low revs. My clutch seems to be alright when I change gear (I thought the clutch only works when you press the clutch pedal when changing gear, does it work when the car already in gear?). It seem like nobody suggest the fuel system. From my research on this forum, the stock injector and fuel pump only support up to 300 RWKW. Since my car is 262 RWKW and already 170K, I'm just worry for my injector and fuel pump can't do their jobs. Can anyone tell me how do I know when it's time to change the injector and fuel pump (I mean what can you tell while driving the car that the fuel system need to be replaced).

My car is not spluttering, but it is hesitated (only for a few second after acceleration) and also vibrating. By saying "an old automatic car", I mean the car doesn't want to speed up instantly and I press the gas pedal, it needs to wait for the gear to kick down (imagine you want to overtake in an old automatic car). Another information is my car doesn't has that problem when accelerate from stand still or constantly acceleration (e.g: after I change gear, if I slowly accelerate, the car is fine). It only happens when I crusing (keep the speed constant) at low rpm and then accelerate from there.

Hi, Is there any sign telling us that the fuel system (fuel pump and injector) needs to be replaced? I know the tuner can tell but it's just too much hassle for me to bring the car to the shop. Currently, when accelerate at low rpm (2000rpm), my T5 manual XR6T feels like an old automatic car, it doesn't speed up instantly like before (this happens after changing the valve spring and retune). I feel like my car was driven over gear, I have to either wait a few seconds, accelerate harder, or release the gas pedal and press it again for the car to speed up normally (similar to a kick down in an automatic car). Is this the sign of the faulty fuel system or the gear box?

Just have a quick question regards to the turbosmart kompact bov. As far as I know the dual port bov allows you to adjust the pressure venting to be either plumb back or supersonic. Just wondering for the dual port, if you adjust the all the venting to atmosphere, does it sound as loud as the supersonic one? Also, I heard that both the dual port and supersonic bov are directly fit to the standard BOV, but the dual port is easier to install as you don't have to block the plumb back hose from the factory unit. Is it correct? Thanks

After the tune, with 9psi and 262 RWKW, my car is much faster and very responsive compared to when it's stock. I beat my friend's S15 with 11psi 167 RWKW which was surprised him. I do feel a lot of torque on the first two gear, just the boost needle doesn't go up, that's all. Maybe the gauge is not accurate. I got the Auto Gauge which is the same with a lot of people here. But if it's the gauge faulty, how come it read very accurate on 3rd and 4th gear (abit more than 0.6 bar which is 9 psi I believe).

Can someone tell me what turbo lag is? Does it mean the car build up the boost slow? My BA T cannot reach its full boost of 9psi (by looking at the boost gauge) in 1st and 2nd gear (manual) no matter how high I rev it up (I have to rev quite hard for the boost gauge to go pass the 0 on these 2 gears) but it does quite easily on 3rd and 4th gear. Is it normal on the XR6T? I sat on a Skyline on the other day, looking at his boost gauge and found that the Skyline reach full boost very easy on all gears. My friend told me that because my car got more turbo lag than his car is it correct? Does the BOV reduce the turbo lag? If not what can I do to reduce the turbo lag?

Just took off the cover to change the rear number plate bulb and I don't how to take the bulb out? I tried to turn the bulb and it just kept turning, didn't come out. Can anyone tell me how to take it out?

Hi guys, Just wondering if the xforce twin 2.5' cat back exhaust is good enough for 270RWKW? Is this sound good? I am after the sound more than performance. A lot of people here recommend to remove the central muffler, however since the xforce twin 2.5 cat back is so cheap ($400), I rather go for the whole system. Is the whole cat back system sound better than removing the central muffler? Is changing the high flow cat together with the cat back exhaust the must? Does anyone here buy the exhaust online and get fitted at the shop? How much does it cost to fit the cat back system? How come there is a huge difference between buying an exhaust itself and getting a fitted exhaust? I got quote from xforce of $1500 fitted for the twin 2.5 cat back exhaust and I can get the same system on ebay for only $400. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all your replies. My problem was solved, it was a dead battery. I'm suprised that I couldn't jump start with dead battery. Is it good to jump start the car? With the new battery, I have the few problems as well. Since I was so excited to bring my car back home, I went to buy a new battery straight away at about 10pm last night after reading your reply. At that time, the only place that still open is K-Mart. From what I know, the more expensive the better the battery is, so I took an Exide one for $142 with 3 years warranty. I brought it to my car (30mins away from that K-Mart) and after about 15mins just to take the factory battery out of the bloody cover box, I found the new battery was too high. Brought it back to K-Mart and I couldn't find one that is the same size (or at least the height) with the factory battery on the Exide brand. There're some but they either had square terminals or opposite +ve and -ve arrangement. I had no choice but took a crap one for $69 with 1 years warranty and I already found it didn't give a good engine start. Is there any specification for the battery? Is it true that the more expensive the better the battery is? Is the dry cell battery better than the normal one? Which brand (and model number if you can remember) of battery you are using? There is one hose connect to the bottom front of the factory battery cover box, anyone know what is it for. Since I didn't put my new battery into the box, the hose just stay there next to the battery and it doesn't look nice. Can I just cut it off and throw it away?