blue_xr6

I am planning to change oil for my fg xr6t. After reading this thread, I am a bit confused as different people use different oils. I will stick wt Castrol Edge fully synthetic as it is recommended by Ford. However, between 0W40 and 10W60, I'm still confused which one is used. Can anyone explain to me what the meaning of these 2 numbers. I don't drive my car hard all the times (just occasionally). Someone say 10W60 is too thick and only needed under hard driving while others says 0W40 is too thin and the turbo needs thicker engine. So which one is better for everyday driving? In the factory manual, they recommended 15W40 for XR6T (there's no synthetic oil at this grade), but for the XR8, they recommended 15W40 for the first 15000K then 0W40 thereafter. Should the turbo use the same engine with the V8?

I am planing to buy seat cover for my FG XR6T. Can anyone show me how to remove the rear seat (both the base and the back)

Hi guys, Just sold my old BA and got the new 08 octane FG XR6T. A lot of you on this forum say that the 6spd automatic on FG is much stronger than the BA 5spd that's why I change from manual on my BA to an automatic FG. Honestly, I am a bit disappointed on performance of the FG. The automatic gear box was so smooth that I can't feel much G-force like in the manual, and I don't like feeling of the kick-down in gear in the automatic when suddenly flooring the accelerator on over taking. It does go fast when you look at the speedometer but I don't feel it as fast as my old manual BA. Any way, the car was great except a minor problem on power window that I just realise. When I wind up or down my window, it does go smooth and fast but I can hear a noise from the mechanism of the motor inside. Not loud but enough for me to hear and feel the motor is not healthy. Is it normal? As I bought my car from dealer and still under 5000kms guarantee, is this covered under warantee? I don't want to go back to dealer unless this is a big problem as I live very far away. Thanks

Hi, I am planning to change oil for my FG XR6T. I've never done this before, so I need some advice. First of all, I need to get a jack and a pair of jack stands. As this is my first time to go under the car, I want to make sure it safe, I don't mind to pay extra on these devices to increase the safety. I am planning to get a 2T jack and a pair of 1500kg stands, are these enough to support the FG and any brands recommended (I saw a few at supercheap and Repco). For the jack, I want to get the 3000kg one to improve safety, but I am scare that it can't go under the low front bumper (my car is standard, not lowered). Does anyone know the height of the front bumper from ground? For the stands, is screw stand or pin stand better? For jack points, the car manual only show the side which is on the rails underneath the doors, that is where I use for the stand. But I am not sure where to jack the front. I've seen a thread on how to change oil for the BA. Is procedure for the FG the same?

Hi guys, From research, I know that to increase power on the FG XR6T, it's recommended to to a custom tune with the X3 flash tuner unit. I've had a custom tuned on my old BA using the old CAPA unit, to save money on buying the X3 unit, can I use the CAPA and do a custom tune for my new FG T. What's the differences between these 2 units (the old CAPA and the new X3)? I am not after serious performance, just planning to do the tune and upgrade new injector for my new FG to get around 300RWKW. Is the CAPA unit good enough for this kind of power?

Thanks Brenno85, your advice did help a lot, I'll use this as a guide when buying my car. I definitely don't want to buy car that's been modified (even I will modify it after got it). Is it easy to tell if the car has been modified and removed (should a mechanic be able to tell). Another thing is for the FG XR6T, is the sat nav standard? Also is tow bar standard? I personally don't like car with tow bar (it look ugly and may be used to tow something which I think not good for the car), but all the car for sale got tow bar, so I reckon it should come standard with the FG XR6T. Let me know if I am wrong

Hi guys, My BA XR6T just got written off after a crash. Now I am planning to get a used FG XR6T. Do you guys think it's better to buy it from a dealer or private. From my past experience, with older car (less than $15K), the prize from dealer is always a lot dearer than from private. However, with recent research, for the used FG XR6T, it's very hard to find one with low kms under $32K from private and there're a few of them under $30K from dealer. I think the dealer is never stupid to sell a car that is under the market value unless the car has problems. Plus, it's hard to see problems with the cars if buying from dealer as the dealer can cover these smartly where as it's easier to see if the car is good if buying private. Please give me advice should I go for dealer or private. Another thing surprise me is that since the new series 2 FG nearly come out, I expect the market value of the series 1 will drop, but it's not. I bought my 2003 BA XR6T in 2006 for $25K, there's no way that I can get the 2008 XR6T now for that kind of money.

Does anyone here use the g-tac software on I-phone to measure the speed, quarter mile, 0-100 etc. ? I've heard they're pretty good and come free from app store. I've just download mine but don't how to use it. When I touch on the "g-tac" logo, a car image appears for 1s then gone. Does anyone here know how to use it?

Thanks for all yours advice guys. Since people have different opinions on which spark plugs should be used on the T. I just chose one which is the NGK PFR6B platinum come pregaped at 0.8 mm and it works perfectly on my car. No more rough idle, smooth acceleration (I was worry about the coil pack at the start but my coil packs seem to be OK for now). The reason I stick with NGK platinum is even it's a bit expensive (I've paid $130 for six), I hope it lasts longer than the factory copper ones (It took me nearly 2 hrs to change the spark plugs so I don't want to do it often). I also checked the Denso ones on ebay ($95 for 6 on ebay), but since my car was so bad, so I don't want to wait over the weekend for the Denso plugs to be post. I haven't used Denso plugs before so can't tell which one is better, but NGK is pretty good to me. Does anyone know the differences between Irridium and Platinum Spark Plugs? Which ones is better and last longer? Someone from this forum said that even platinum spark plugs would only last for 20000kms on modded T, is this correct? I'll see, if that's the case, I'll change to the normal copper ones and change everytime I do service. It's cheaper that way. Once again. Thank you. I found this forum is very useful. Since joining this forum, I've never bring my car to mechanic to check for problems. You guys gave me spot on suggestions to fix my problems. Awesome.

Thanks for your information. I'll get the plugs soon and put on my car. However, I've just opened my bonnet and couldn't find where the spark plugs on my BA XR6T is (sorry for asking such a stupid question, but I've never changed the spark plugs in my car before so I don't know. I did change it on my previous cars the plugs were just there in front of me when the bonnet was opened). Do I have to open the engine cover to change the spark plugs on the BA? Is it easy to do?

Hi, Due to bad idle and exhaust firing recently on my BA XR6T, it's time for me to change spark plugs and coil packs (as suggested by many members on this forum). How do I know if it's a spark plugs or coil packs problems? I am gonna change one by one to see. I am gonna change the spark plugs first as they're cheaper. I haven't changed the spark plugs since bought the car at 100,000kms (now it's done 175,000kms), so I don't know which spark plugs is good for the BA XR6T? My tuner did regapped my spark plugs when he tuned my car (but I forgot to how much the new gaping is, does this really matter to chose the spark plugs) Any suggestion on which brand and product number of spark plugs should be used on my car will be appreciated (there're a few platinum one on the market so I don't know which one is good). The platinum spark plugs should last for 100,000 kms, is this correct?

Is venting the BOV and blocking it the same? It seems these two terms have been used alot, but I don't really know if they're the same. With regarding to my Kompact SS BOV, the fitting guys did block the exhaust hose as my BOV doesn't have this hose. I am not sure about the venting but my BOV still produce the flutter sound (and it very small, very similar to the stock one without being blocked) and I set my BOV to soft as well.

Just fitted a XForce twin 2.5' mild steel cat back system in my T. I noticed there's a coating (I think ceramic) over its surface. Can someone tell me what is this coating for? The exhaust shop guys had to heat the exhaust up to bend my exhaust a bit so the two tips sit right in the middle of the exhaust hole on the rear bumper bar (at the start after fit it on, the tips sat on one side so it touched the bumper bar when I turn). As the result, the coating is gone at the place where heat is applied. It looks ugly now, but I don't mind coz it's just about 2 inch long. I'm just worried if it damage the exhaust, weaker, hotter, easier to rust or something like that. Now after a long drive, I can smell some burning smell, is it normal?

Just fitted a Turbosmart Kompact Supersonic into my car and very disappointed at the sound of it. It got a flutter sound (tututututut) intead of the BOV (ppshshshsh) and the Autobarn guy said the supersonic one should be loudest in the Kompact series but I hardly hear anything even at full boost (9psi). It sounds not much better than the stock flutter sound at all. Can anyone got Turbosmart Kompact BOV fitted tell me what yours sound like and how loud it is? Does the hard-soft setting help with the sound? Which setting sounds louder?

Agree, 300RWKW is way too much for the T5. My gear box is already up to its limit at 260RWK. Should keep it below 260 to be safe