mattson

at the moment this is all I've got

Looks like I missed out on this one WHEW!

hahah, I know what you mean, I just finished debadgin mine and I think it looks much better. I love driving mine and it's still stock!!

Smooth as a babies bum!

Heres one of my recently added scuff

do the pictures work for people, first (DSC01237r.JPG) should be of the car second (DSC01245r.JPG) should be of the instrument cluster? let me know if this doesn't work for people

Crisso, I only picked up the car on friday arvo last week, so I've been chugging along with achieving all the goals I set, The stereo will be the biggest hike, I've got all the gear sitting in my spare room from my old stereo, but it will require some serious spare time to put all that back.. I'm going the debadge today.. The sun-shade (aka roof spoiler) I put on last night after taking those pictures. the red engine detail/accent I'll try to do over the weekend if I get enough time then it's just the gold wheels, this will take a while cause it's a 2 day paint job and I currently don't have any way of taking all four wheels off at once (only one jack) so not really a wish list, more a to-do list

just off topic a bit, how do ya'll brake, is it just brakes? I.e push the clutch/brake in and coast to a stop.. the reason I ask is, I've always been a engine/compression braking kinda guy, even in the T, I used strategic downshifts with light braking to pull the car up, always worked in my WRX as well and never had brake problems... maybe people should give this a try..

and another of the gauge binicle we all love so dear

Heres one I took of my Mighty T yesterday after painting the calipers (barely noticable in this picture evidently) Tint is going on friday, I'll be sure to take another then

got any engine pics?

Hi Evade (if your the one from mrt, then you'd know me also) the std intercooler is a bar & plate job. I believe it uses a garrett core imported from the US, but I could be wrong, it's just what I've read somewhere cheers Matt

The sports leather is un-f*cking-real, so comfy, so smooth my SWMBO loves it & the entire car.. loves it so much infact she's too scared to drive it for fear of damaging it *WOOT*

one more for now!

well after the longest 14 days of my life, I finally got the call to say it's all systems go ready for pick-up. Funny story was I passed it on the truck on my way to work that day, and said to my mate, I wonder if that's my car (work only down the road from surfside ford) he said most likely, blueprint turbo, brand new heading towards surfside, what are the chances... anyways, turns out it was and yeah... so I picked it up;... needless to say I've burnt through a full tank of go juice now and still can't get enough of this!!!!! My old man drove it for an hour on the way back from thier house to ours (as they were staying on the coast tonight) and being a big ford man himself all his life, he said it has easily restored his faith in the Falcon range of the later years.. and I reckon he wants one too now! anyways, heres the piccies, more to come in the gallery soon when I actually stop driving to take some pictures

Hi Stef, Sent you a pm, hope you can put one aside for me Cheers, Matt

I've researched this to death (having come from a wrx) according to the RTA, a fog light is like you said about, not directional etc etc, but a fog light is a considered a yellow light to be classed as a fog light, these are not allowed to be on EXCEPT in fog/adverse weather conditions the lights that most cars have mounted in thier front bar are considered 'DRIVING' lights, and these are only to be used at any time where visibility is less then legal limits (which in QLD is where you can't see 200metres in front of you) so at dusk, night, heavy rain it is all ok to have these lights on. there is then SPOT lights which is a different kettle of fish altogether! Hope this helps. Cheers Matt

of or on.. whats the difference fishies are fun!

How to polish metal items: take off the wheel (or other metal item), remove rubber, wash it, degrease it, dip it in strong paint stripper, then start rubbing, with 400 wet/dry, then 800 (oh, for two hours or so) then 1000 (another hour) then go to someone that has a bench grinder with a polishing cloth wheel on it, and a stick of green polishing goo. The polishing bit only takes around 20 minutes. Then it will shine it's a long winded process but well worth it!

hmmm my thoughts and my thoughts only. 270kw = meh 550nm = hmmm bodykit = take it or leave it, grill mesh is far to 'obvious' wing = xr style, slightly higher with centre pillar, easy fix for those wanting similar wing on thier turbo, go to a fibre glasser/carbon fibrer and get some 1 inch high spacers moulded to give it a illusion it's sitting higher. wheels = hmmm/meh interior = I'd prefer blue brakes = about time... whats the retail on one of those? *classic fast and furious quote* anyways.. I'll wait to see one on the street.

becareful about the ol refitting stock items to a modified car to claim warranty. there was a big brew-ha-ha with some guy on an american subaru forum who posted all over the boards how he had been running 20psi on his rex and blew the bottom end out and sh*t, replaced all the stock items and then subaru replaced it. he was gloating on the boards how he was screwin subaru over with warranty repairs and someone tipped subaru off sending their head office an anonymous e-mail stating they were being screwed. Subaru then charged the guy with fraudulent (sp?) activities and he ended up having to pay $10000 in repairs/damages/courtfees etc needless to say he was very angry OT I know, but just had to add my 2c

I've always followed a few procedures with running in new engines (of any kind): done over 3-4 1 hour periods 1st session: Low speeds, with slight acceloration through gears no full throttle repeat for an hour, usually a hour spin around town is easy to achieve this. allow full cool down at the end 2nd session: low speeds with medium speed bursts, with quicker acceloration then above, probably 70-80kph around town, occasional rev-limiter (not entirely nessecary) allow full cool down again 3rd session: medium speeds with higher speed bursts with quick take-off acceloration, full throttle occasionally, 80-100kph maintainted speeds, a good solid hours drive or 100km's for this step. allow full cool down again 4th session: repeat third once more. by now you should have around 300-350+ km's on the clock and your engine should be well and truely run-in some note worthy items always allow sufficient warm-up time before driving always allow sufficient cool-down time before shutting off engine use only PULP or Hi-PULP like optimax/ultimate/98 ron fuels. some people recommend checking/changing spark plugs after initial run-ins due to rich fuel ratios but it's up to you, if you can do it, do it.. if not don't worry about it, let your mechanic check. some people even change thier oil afterwards to a more/less synthetic variety after run in.. again if in doubt ask your mechanic. hope this helps

Looks good Bara, I can't wait to get my hands on a set

Badge removal, wheel polishing among other things are on my to-do list when my T arrives this weekend I too think the clean badgeless is awsome.. fully stealth

*WOOOT* Best news I've had all day, my dealer called to state my car was in transit as of yesterday, due to arrive in brisbane tomorrow morning! WOOHOO!! so all things considered I still should have it by the weekend So very happy!!